Weird Brake Problem

Discussion in 'Axles + Brakes' started by OldHoster, Oct 7, 2017.

  1. OldHoster

    OldHoster Newbie

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    I just recently purchased this, and am working through the issues.

    Vehicle

    1995 2D Tahoe K1500 5.7 Completely stock other than bars cranked from what I can tell. I am going to lift it as soon as I get some issues worked out.

    Problem

    The Red Break light was on when I purchased it and I thought it was just the eBrake.

    The brakes do work except balancing I need to do from what I can tell.

    Last night I just popped the brake peddle really hard less than 1/4 the of the way down and the brake light went off. A few miles later it came back on, this morning I decided to try the same thing again and it did the same thing. This has told me that it isn't the eBrake peddle, BUT what is it? Does anyone have any ideas?

    Apparently the previous owner just replaced the ABS system etc. they thought the tranny was going and that the motor was a goner due to a surge. I figured it was the TPS sensor, but really didn't care. As I planned to instantly LS swap it. I did the TPS sensor and the thing runs like new lol.

    Thanks,

    OH
     
  2. DerekTheGreat

    DerekTheGreat I'm Awesome

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    Sounds like there is air in the system. I'm not sure how the 4 wheel ABS trucks work but on our '89 2WD ABS set-up I've never had to do anything out of the ordinary. Since you're in Nevada, the brake bleeders should be easy to pop loose. If you're mechanically inclined and know how to bleed brakes, start with the passenger side rear tire, then the driver side rear, followed by passenger side front and then driver's side front. Should feel much better. Although I suspect since the PO replaced the ABS doo-hickey you'll most likely need the special tool to bleed it or have a stealership do it.
     
  3. Cliff

    Cliff Newbie

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    I am haveing trouble trying to bleed the brakes on my 1995 GMC 1/2 ton truck i replaced the MC and i do not get fluid to the rear bleeders i did also bench bleed the MC HELP
     
  4. RussKincaid

    RussKincaid Newbie

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    Most likely air in the lines have caused the proportioning valve safety cutoff valve to move just far enough to turn on the light then turn it off again. It's not uncommon after the hydraulic system has leaked down or been serviced. The fix is easy but messy. Top off the reservoir, cover it back up and open open the bleeder screws to all four wheels. Get in and mash the fire out of the brake pedal, just short of stomping it into the firewall. Repeat a few times, topping off after each time. This will recenter the safety valve and usually turns the light off. Bleed the brakes in normal fashion afterwards. If you have 4WAL system, you may need to cycle the ABS a few times and re-bleed. If you have access to a scan tool you can cycle the ABS with it to bleed the solenoids, or if not bleed normally, then drive it safely and brake hard enough to activate the ABS a few times and re-bleed.
     
  5. john granby 5

    john granby 5 Newbie

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    stop hard to make abs to work like on a gravel road and that will get the air out of the abs unit the n bleed you brakes at the wheels
     
  6. OldHoster

    OldHoster Newbie

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    Thanks for all of the advice. I am going to take it out in the dirt and do that later today. I bet that you have hit the problem on the nail head.
     

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