"Weakest Link"

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borahshadow

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What is considered the "weakest link" on a 1500 in terms of towing capacity and GVRW? I know that beefier suspension or suspension helpers like air bags help you ride level and improve loaded handling but they don't increase the GVRW. If someone was to upgrade one component other than suspension to help haul heavy loads what would you recommend?

The things that I thought of that might be limiting factors would be (not in any particular order): the front IFS suspension, Tranny, brakes, other drive train components like axles and hubs. I could be completely off base though and I don't know which of the above if any is the "weakest".

If one was going to haul loads frequently lower gears would help too. I've got 3.73 which afaik is the lowest that came from the factory with the L31.
 

borahshadow

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What exactly do you mean by the rear end? I'm planning on getting some air bags first of all. That way I'd at least sit level and I also wouldn't blind people at night. I've got the 4l60e which really isn't that durable of a tranny or so I've heard. I'd love to have a 4l80e or even a manual but I don't think that is in the cards any time soon.
 

Mean Green

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What exactly do you mean by the rear end? I'm planning on getting some air bags first of all. That way I'd at least sit level and I also wouldn't blind people at night. I've got the 4l60e which really isn't that durable of a tranny or so I've heard. I'd love to have a 4l80e or even a manual but I don't think that is in the cards any time soon.

I believe Darren is referring to the 10 bolt you most likely have under your truck. The 10 bolt is is not an especially strong rear end, if you're going to be towing on a daily basis I'd say upgrade to the much beefier 14 Bolt SF rear. The 10 bolt looks tiney when compared to the 14 bolt. As far as the IFS, I highly doubt that you'll have any problems as far as towing capacity goes. In general the only time people have problems with the IFS is when they are running a 6"+ lift with huge tires and bad CV angles that put a ton of strain on the front end causing the the front end parts to wear extremely fast. What are you planning on towing? Also how often? Air bags will help leveling the load, but something else that is really important is how the trailer itself is loaded. With a tag trailer, you should have about 10-12% of the weight on the tongue.
 

capricefrk013

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I have heard good and bad things about the 4l60e. For the last 2 summers, every Wednesday, I towed my lil race car, in my sig and a neon, to the track 45mins away from home up and down hills and never once struggled. Now my 305 was yelling at me but thats understandable.
 

Hezsus

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I would highly reccomend airbags. and for towing power wise, i've got a mild 350 and the 4l60e, the motor will keep up but the trans wont. if i'm real nice to its fine but it will act up and slip if i push it too hard. i'm also towing a 9000lb trailer. not a neon. if you dont have stock 3.73 gears i'd think about regearing, it can take alot of stress off your trans and engine. the mielage will drop a little bit tho. also if regearing, go 4.11 if your running stock tires. or higher for bigger tires.
 

borahshadow

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I was mostly just curious as I doubt I'll start replacing things like rear ends. I think my truck will tow just about anything I have. I plan on getting air bags before I start towing much.

I've got a Camper that has a GVWR of 7500. A 3 place horse trailer that has a GVWR of 10400 but I don't think I ever have or ever will have it that heavy. I would guess it weighs 2500 empty and unless I had some really big horses in there I won't have any more than about 4000 pounds of horse in there. A snowmobile trailer but that doesn't weigh all that much compared to the others. And I'm currently shopping for a utility/ATV trailer that I can use to haul landscaping material, lawnmowers, ATVs, lumber whatever. That trailer won't ever weigh more than 7000 pounds and those times would be few and far between.

Long story short I could possibly be pulling 6-7K once in a while but more frequently 3-5K. Even then it wouldn't be more than once a week.

My truck specs... 1500, 350(5.7l), 4l60e, 3.73 gears, and soon to be air bags. The owners manual claims a towing capacity of 6500 IIRC. Other than my RV I doubt I'll exceed that often, maybe on occasion if the 1500 will handle it.

I've got a cabin that is about 2.5 hours away from my house... The thing that worries me about a heavy trailer and the 4l60e is at one point there is a large climb... 6% grade for about 5 miles.


@Hezsus Is your truck a 1500 or a 2500? Just curious what were you pulling that weighs 9K?
 

Hezsus

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my truck is a 1500, i was pulling a 24' enclosed work trailer. its loaded up with shop tools, has stuff like heavy work benches, drill press, welders, and any and all small tools. dual tandem axle. i wish i had a 2500.. would make me feel a little more confident with my trans and rearend. but if your easy on it you should be fine, it takes a while to get up to speed, mielage sucks. make sure your truck has a factory trans cooler, i believe most/all do but not positive. if not you'll want one. also you'll be in and out of overdrive a fair bit with something real heavy.

I've towed smaller trailers, 4000-5000lbs and they tow like a dream.

if you've got a large grade just make sure your turning lots of rpms, throw it in 3rd if you have to (dont watch your fuel guage)
 

borahshadow

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my truck is a 1500, i was pulling a 24' enclosed work trailer. its loaded up with shop tools, has stuff like heavy work benches, drill press, welders, and any and all small tools. dual tandem axle. i wish i had a 2500.. would make me feel a little more confident with my trans and rearend. but if your easy on it you should be fine, it takes a while to get up to speed, mielage sucks. make sure your truck has a factory trans cooler, i believe most/all do but not positive. if not you'll want one. also you'll be in and out of overdrive a fair bit with something real heavy.

I've towed smaller trailers, 4000-5000lbs and they tow like a dream.

if you've got a large grade just make sure your turning lots of rpms, throw it in 3rd if you have to (dont watch your fuel guage)

K cool deal. I didn't think I'd have a problem with anything up to or slightly over the weight of the RV but I thought I'd check. I'd imagine with a stock engine I'll have to have it in 3rd almost anytime I'm pulling any kind of a grade... and I'll definitely be sure to ignore the fuel needle and it's high speed chase of the little "E" indicator. lol
 

ancho

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Better off just keeping it in 3, don't bother with OD unless it's absolutely flat and level road. The back and forth from 3 to OD heats up that transmission a lot.

Air bags are a huge help, I was running them in my 97 K1500 that's for sale( airbag kit is for sale now), and installing a set on my GMT400 Escalade now, they are indispensable for hauling with a 1500 IMO. AS mentioned, they do nothing for GVWR but they allow you to manage that weight a little more confidently.
 
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