Un-cranking and repairing damage questions

[gostraightahead]

Alright, 98 Z71 193K with all original front end with a 2" block, cranked to level with a 2" body and 35" Coopers on stock wheels. It's been cranked that much for about 2 years and I'm just now paying for it. I realize I've done it to myself and I've learned my lesson well.

I need tires pretty bad and I have bad tie rods, idler and pitman arm. I've sourced everything I need in terms of parts but I have a few questions after reading EVERY relevant post here.

Do I have to replace the idler bracket or just the idler arm? Is the idler and pitman a PITA or what? I want to get all this resolved before eating up a grand worth of tires.

As far as tools, I have a 2 jaw puller and pickle fork and do all my own work. What else am I looking at and what can I expect? By the way, my ball joints are tight.

After I get this all replaced, I'm un-cranking and un-blocking and gonna run General Grabber AT2s in 285/75/16 on D-wheels.

Any heads ups are appreciated.
TIA,
B

 

[Snotrocket]

I wouldn't necessarily blame it on your crank. All of those parts would be shot at that mileage anyway. Uncranking it will be easier on your new parts though.

Most of it connects to other parts you're going to replace so that will make it a tad easier to replace.


I would personally replace the ball joints while you have it all apart and need an alignment . I'm shocked that they're still tight after that kind of mileage.

How are you checking the ball joints? Jack up one side of the front end and put a pry bar on the tire while looking at the joint. Any movement and it needs to be replaced.

I live in pot hole/rust country and it's hard on front ends. Buy either Moog or the best parts NAPA has or you'll be doing it again next year.

 

[gostraightahead]

Yeah, I checked ball joint slop with a pry bar. They're good. I don't know how.
Isn't a 2 jaw tool the same thing as a pitman puller?
Thanks,
Brent

 

[midnightblue]

my local shop did a pitman and idler arm and tie rod sleeves on my duramax for 160 bucks. 120 was labor and 40 was an alignment. and i had to do a pitman arm and idler arm and balljoints at 140 thousand miles without crank. you got luck with those miles.

 

[TylerZ281500]

i found easiest way to do pitman is pull the gear box out. i have a set of old connectors that i crimped off so the fluid doesnt leak anywhere. idler is easy but each truck ive bought ive found a few dozen sockets from someone trying to do it before it all very easy just do it little by little. also a BFH is always a must if you dont know that already.

i liked my 3 jaw puller but i also had the gear box out so that may be of little help.