Mudd Duk
OBS Enthusiast
I've seen a few threads in this forum dealing with the typical lifts we put on our obs's and there has always been alot of questions and misinformed truths spread about them. I've done a **** ton of work on mine over the years and experienced just about every hang up that could occur. I also seem to get a few questions regularly about how I got mine to the state it's in and what helps. So I figured I'd make a thread that can be referenced for typical questions and contain a few of the tricks I've learned along the way. Now the only brand kit that I have experience with is the Rough Country, but that appears to be somewhat the typical route people go anyway due to price and reliability.
When I first lifted the truck I bought the RC 6" b/c the price difference from the 4" to 6" was 20 dollars, and I later learned that the only difference between the two is the aal for the rear. The shop that aligned it for me first after I installed it did not believe in cranking tb's whatsoever, so naturally there was alot of rake. I don't have any pictures of that, but I was not about to ride around with the rake. So, I removed the 4" block and put in a 2" block, basically running the 4" RCX, since the front was level w/ no angles, and the rear only had an aal and 2" block. I was running 35x12.5r 16 thornbirds on 16x10 dc1's w/ 4.5 backspacing on all of these setups.
Shortly after I decided that it wasn't big enough, and started cranking the keys and put the 4" block back in. Even with doing this, my passenger side, cranked to the max, wouldn't even hit level, so I went w/ some Ford keys to crank some past level. Needless to say that by cranking I had put some pretty bad angles on the front end and was beginning to wear parts out. After much research, I figured out that RC's 3" leveling kit came w/ keys, aal's and new upper control arms. Since I already had keys, and didn't want an extra aal out back, b/c then I probably would have rake again, I just bought the uca's. Now I've heard some people have not been able to buy just the uca's, but they had no problem selling me them w/ the new bushings as well. I also went ahead and bought all new Moog tie rods, tie rod ends, ball joints, idler arm, and pitman arm. By adding these, it actually raised the front up more, so I was able to decrank and still be higher by 2" in the front, and now had great ball joint angles and the cv's aren't bad at all either. Also w/ the decrank, the front could flex more and the ride was alot better.
The part numbers I used to buy the arms and bushings are: 94000100 K1500 CONTRL DRIVER, 94000200 K1500 CONT ARM PASS, 7545BAG3 COMP KIT BAG3-BUSH.
The number I called to order them from was 1-800-222-7023. Hopefully this will help if anybody wants to try and order some.
The truck still wasn't big enough, so I went ahead and bought the full 3" PA body lift w/ gap guards, linkage extensions, and bumper brackets.
Now this is where some arguments come in regarding what size tire is able to be ran w/ a 6+3. 35's imo are way too small for this much lift, as you can see from my first picture in this thread that they are fine on only 4" of lift. But, just for the sake of argument, I could flex my truck fully and full lock to lock and never rub anywhere.
With the setup I am running, you can see that there is no rub, and the front is cranked low enough to let the ifs "flex" as much as it can. You can tell by looking at the body lines that there isn't too much frame flex, the front tires are flexing some.
But, since those tires didn't rub, it was time for larger ones. Really wanting to go w/ 38's but unsure of whether or not they would rub, I bought some pretty used 38.5" boggers and tried it out. No pics of them, they were bald. Do have these, but you can barely tell whats on it.
Knowing now that 38's fit no problem, it was time to invest in some new meat.
I haven't said anything on gearing, b/c there is alot of difference of opinion on this subject, but I for one believe to not fear the gear. Running 35's or more, I feel that theres alot of rotational mass and 4.56 or lower is needed. Up until this point, I had been running 4.56's w/ a mini spool in the rear. That spool ate tires regularly, so going to new 38's I went w/ a Tru trac.
Spool being removed.
Tru trac almost set perfect.
38's mounted, sitting in the drive.
A little flexing to see if they rub.
In my honest opinion, 38's are perfect for a 6+3. Fully flexed there is no rubbing, you can see where there is about a quarter of an inch between the tire and body. It's also visible that the tire isn't rubbing b/c you can see where it didn't knock the dirt off of the fender.
I hope this sets to rest some of the questions that arise in lifting an obs, and has helped some people out. Any questions feel free to ask, I'll answer them to the best of my ability. Again, I have no experience w/ other lifts, but believe I have pretty much got this RCX stuff nailed. Measurements as it sits right now are 52" up front and 50" out back.
When I first lifted the truck I bought the RC 6" b/c the price difference from the 4" to 6" was 20 dollars, and I later learned that the only difference between the two is the aal for the rear. The shop that aligned it for me first after I installed it did not believe in cranking tb's whatsoever, so naturally there was alot of rake. I don't have any pictures of that, but I was not about to ride around with the rake. So, I removed the 4" block and put in a 2" block, basically running the 4" RCX, since the front was level w/ no angles, and the rear only had an aal and 2" block. I was running 35x12.5r 16 thornbirds on 16x10 dc1's w/ 4.5 backspacing on all of these setups.
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Shortly after I decided that it wasn't big enough, and started cranking the keys and put the 4" block back in. Even with doing this, my passenger side, cranked to the max, wouldn't even hit level, so I went w/ some Ford keys to crank some past level. Needless to say that by cranking I had put some pretty bad angles on the front end and was beginning to wear parts out. After much research, I figured out that RC's 3" leveling kit came w/ keys, aal's and new upper control arms. Since I already had keys, and didn't want an extra aal out back, b/c then I probably would have rake again, I just bought the uca's. Now I've heard some people have not been able to buy just the uca's, but they had no problem selling me them w/ the new bushings as well. I also went ahead and bought all new Moog tie rods, tie rod ends, ball joints, idler arm, and pitman arm. By adding these, it actually raised the front up more, so I was able to decrank and still be higher by 2" in the front, and now had great ball joint angles and the cv's aren't bad at all either. Also w/ the decrank, the front could flex more and the ride was alot better.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
The part numbers I used to buy the arms and bushings are: 94000100 K1500 CONTRL DRIVER, 94000200 K1500 CONT ARM PASS, 7545BAG3 COMP KIT BAG3-BUSH.
The number I called to order them from was 1-800-222-7023. Hopefully this will help if anybody wants to try and order some.
The truck still wasn't big enough, so I went ahead and bought the full 3" PA body lift w/ gap guards, linkage extensions, and bumper brackets.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Now this is where some arguments come in regarding what size tire is able to be ran w/ a 6+3. 35's imo are way too small for this much lift, as you can see from my first picture in this thread that they are fine on only 4" of lift. But, just for the sake of argument, I could flex my truck fully and full lock to lock and never rub anywhere.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
With the setup I am running, you can see that there is no rub, and the front is cranked low enough to let the ifs "flex" as much as it can. You can tell by looking at the body lines that there isn't too much frame flex, the front tires are flexing some.
But, since those tires didn't rub, it was time for larger ones. Really wanting to go w/ 38's but unsure of whether or not they would rub, I bought some pretty used 38.5" boggers and tried it out. No pics of them, they were bald. Do have these, but you can barely tell whats on it.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Knowing now that 38's fit no problem, it was time to invest in some new meat.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I haven't said anything on gearing, b/c there is alot of difference of opinion on this subject, but I for one believe to not fear the gear. Running 35's or more, I feel that theres alot of rotational mass and 4.56 or lower is needed. Up until this point, I had been running 4.56's w/ a mini spool in the rear. That spool ate tires regularly, so going to new 38's I went w/ a Tru trac.
You must be registered for see images attach
Spool being removed.
You must be registered for see images attach
Tru trac almost set perfect.
You must be registered for see images attach
38's mounted, sitting in the drive.
You must be registered for see images attach
A little flexing to see if they rub.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
In my honest opinion, 38's are perfect for a 6+3. Fully flexed there is no rubbing, you can see where there is about a quarter of an inch between the tire and body. It's also visible that the tire isn't rubbing b/c you can see where it didn't knock the dirt off of the fender.
You must be registered for see images attach
I hope this sets to rest some of the questions that arise in lifting an obs, and has helped some people out. Any questions feel free to ask, I'll answer them to the best of my ability. Again, I have no experience w/ other lifts, but believe I have pretty much got this RCX stuff nailed. Measurements as it sits right now are 52" up front and 50" out back.
Last edited:
Werd, might leave out here in a little while and go ahead and get it.
