Tyler's DD/plaything

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Sampuppy1

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Brake upgrades in progress. I made a mistake. Now it's costing me extra. Pics to come in an edit once finished with more details and a slight review of certain parts.

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Tyler/T-Unit
 

jw_96

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Brake upgrades in progress. I made a mistake. Now it's costing me extra. Pics to come in an edit once finished with more details and a slight review of certain parts.

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Tyler/T-Unit
Well what happened

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LOH CHO

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Sampuppy1, just started reading your thread and I saw you put an overhead console in. How did you go about mounting it? Drop the headliner and find the holes? Also what did you do about the lights? Was the wiring there?
 

95C1500

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Sampuppy1, just started reading your thread and I saw you put an overhead console in. How did you go about mounting it? Drop the headliner and find the holes? Also what did you do about the lights? Was the wiring there?
There's a thread on here somewhere with measurements that tell you where the holes are. They don't have to be perfect cuts either because the console will cover them. As for the wiring, I don't remember if it was up there or if I had to run my own wiring
 

95C1500

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I actually may have gotten the pigtail from whatever truck I got the console from and just ran power and ground from the pigtail to the truck
 

Sampuppy1

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Well what happened

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I ordered lines for 95+ I deleted my abs module meaning the lines were all wrong from the master out. So I had to order another complete set of line for a 94 back.
Sampuppy1, just started reading your thread and I saw you put an overhead console in. How did you go about mounting it? Drop the headliner and find the holes? Also what did you do about the lights? Was the wiring there?
I dropped the headliner and made some rough cuts. I had to rewire my dome light when I installed the headliner since the dingus before me ran a body ground for the light and it wouldn't turn off. So I rewired it and tapped into my new wiring for that circuit.

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LOH CHO

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I dropped the headliner and made some rough cuts. I had to rewire my dome light when I installed the headliner since the dingus before me ran a body ground for the light and it wouldn't turn off. So I rewired it and tapped into my new wiring for that circuit.

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Tyler/T-Unit

That's actually a great idea going to the dome light, so when you open your door, do the console lights come on as well? But are they dim if all 3 are on at once?
 

Sampuppy1

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That's actually a great idea going to the dome light, so when you open your door, do the console lights come on as well? But are they dim if all 3 are on at once?
The way they are setup they only come in when the buttons are hit. So they're always off until I turn them on. Even if they were all on, I don't have a single incandescent light left in my truck. They hardly suck any juice. I left my interior lights on over a weekend away once and she fired right up.

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Sampuppy1

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Brake upgrades are nearly complete. I have a few minor issues to take care of that were unrelated to the new parts. A broken caliper bleeder meaning a new caliper and I also screwed up one of my residual pressure valves.

So here's the rundown. I nabbed a GMT800 master cylinder. Brand new. Also came with a disc rear prop valve which I can't use until I have the 14bsf ready. It had custom lines from the master to prop valve and they worked perfect for the 88-94 drum rear prop valve I got from the junk yard.
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Next up was a full ABS delete. I yanked the module. A tech2 wouldn't communicate with it so I couldn't bleed it and it was making for a terrible pedal feel. The ABS light was on when I bought the truck so I couldn't diagnose the problem either. These systems are garbage anyways and it just wasn't necessary for me.

Then I got full pre bent stainless hard lines for the whole truck. Actually I got two sets. I originally ordered a set for 95-00 ABS equipped trucks. That was my own fault. They came from fine lines on eBay. Manufactured by sstubes. Made in America, 304 stainless. Great stuff. Packaged well. Fit was awesome for the parts I did use. There was a warrantee but I hacked a line up and lost the paper work so it's void. No fault of theirs in any way. Fittings were all color coded for ease of installation. The cons of their kit was the rear supply line was all One piece. It would be a complete pain to route without dropping the fuel tank. Luckily I didn't use this part. I also wasn't a fan of the packing slips. They just listed part numbers and that was it.
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I ordered another kit from inline tube for 88-94. This kit was of the same quality. But more inclusive. It provided extra parts for extended cabs and long beds. The lines from the prop valve out had the coils in them for body/frame movement compensation which the SSTubes kit did not have. They came with a detailed packing slip with pics for parking numbers which made identification and location much easier. Cons of the inline tube kit is that it is very union heavy. The rear brake supply line is in 4 pieces. It was super easy to install but the amount of unions gives more chances for leaks. The front right line is two pieces with a union in the middle. I didn't use this one as I already had the SSTubes line installed. I didn't have an issue at all with leaks though. I scavenged parts from both kits to make it all work but using the inline tube kit would have been fine had I just ordered it in the first place. This was my own fault.
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Next on the list was to lose the rubber flex lines. The guy that sold me the master cylinder had Russel plastic coated braided stainless front hoses. These things are awesome. High quality parts. I didn't realize they came in a full kit that included the rear axle y line so I had to order the full kit for this just to get the rear line....... All these bolted up flawlessly.
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Lastly, getting rid of the ABS module left all the lines wide open. Normal brake systems utilize residual pressure valves to keep the lines charged for better pedal response. My valves were in the ABS module. So I had to get inline valves. Allstar performance was the answer at my local performance shop. 10lb valve for the rear drums and a 2lb for the front disc. The rear supply line was 1/4 so I had to get fittings to adapt the 3/16 fittings on the residual valve to accept the 1/4 fittings on the lines. The front bolted right up but I ended up grabbing a single male/double female T connector to allow the residual pressure valves to install right at the distribution block for both front lines.
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All in all this was an easy job. I made it difficult and set myself back a bit due to my own reasons. Shipping on the lines was super quick. They all came in early and were great products.

I am Using valvoline dot4 synthetic brake fluid on this truck. I'll be doing a full system bleed to wrap this mess up.


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Sampuppy1

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Got it all done. Results were exactly as intended. I have no pedal travel, instant brake response, solid braking feel, and no pulling to either side.

I 100% wholly recommend the GMT800 master swap as well as braided stainless flex hoses. I have a spare set of fronts just in case. But I might sell them. Not sure quite yet.

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