Turbo build

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94burbk1500

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Ha true. I live in middle of nowhere with very few neighbors but don't like loud. Heck I was trying to figure out if I could fit another muffler on my '91 and it already has 48" of 4" mufflers.

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Easy, just replace your h-pipe with a sideways muffler. lol
 

Jaredpear

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it can’t be any louder than open headers (which I drove for a year) also it helps the sound of the turbo and spool which I know we all love
 

df2x4

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I like the fender cutout in addition to a full exhaust idea. Matt of Sloppy Mechanics did a similar thing for a while with an electronic cutout from Loud Valves in his turbo 4.8L Colorado.

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PolarBear

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A fender exit exhaust isn't as obnoxious as you'd think. The turbo does a pretty good job at quieting things down.

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This truck now has a 4" Downpipe that exits under the front bumper. It's totally street drivable. I plan on giving my 17 ram a break soon and daily driving this truck again.
 

Jaredpear

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Another question for everyone, does anyone know what size threads the oil pressure sensor for the vortec 454 are?
 

Jaredpear

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So I’ve decided to go ahead and build a custom exhaust manifold for the turbo, ordered most of the parts today except the actual turbo flange. I also picked up an extra intake manifold today (complete with fuel rail and throttle body) and had a few questions, is there any mods that can be done to the intake manifold? Also does anyone know how to convert it to a remote fuel pressure regulator?
 

Christian Steffen

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Pretty sure @Mangonesailor is working on an external fpr swap. Should just be a matter of getting the right fittings, though if you're going through the effort it would be nice to locate it somewhere a bit better.

What do you want from the intake? Is there something you don't like about it?
 

Jaredpear

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I was just trying to figure out if there was anything you can do to get some better flow out of it
 

Christian Steffen

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Maybe some porting? Opening it up will probably decrease low end torque some though. I could be wrong, but shouldn't you be able to overcome any intake restrictions with boost? Though, the greater your flow rate is, the larger pressure drop you'll see, so eventually it could be worth getting a better flowing manifold.
 

Mangonesailor

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Indeed it should be pretty easy to add an external FPR and leave the stock one in place. In theory, if the rail pressure exceeds it's set (or failed-to) pressure then it will simply fully open which will allow the external FPR to be in control of the fuel pressure. I'm not sure on how to gut the internal regulator yet, but as long as you keep the top cap straight and the body that holds the O-ring that's all you need to keep it sealed.

I myself have resorted to telling my ECM what my actual fuel pressure is, as long as the duty cycle of the injectors keeps up with fuel demand at a lower pressure in and out of PE.

As far as fittings goes, the return line is 5/16". Earl's has fittings that fit onto tubing and tighten to them using compression ferrules (rated to 250psi). They have them go to -6an size hose (3/8") which would then be easy to plumb to wherever your FPR will be mounted.

I have a full parts n pieces list in a thread I started:
AEI-13129, FPR, $141
EAR-610006ERL, Hose 10', $66
EAR-AT165056ERL, Tube to hose AN, $11 x2
EAR-AT949006ERL, AN to FPR, $16.95 x2
Total to upgrade: $263.99

The AEI FPR will boost reference above 0 vacuum, so conviently that FPR will work for you, as long as the fuel pressure you intend to run is <70psi (it's advisable though that if you want to run 65psi that you get a FPR with a higher max setpoint to allow it to more smoothly control fuel pressure transients).

Clear as mud ?

As far as the manifold goes, from what I read on FSC the most restrictive part of the intake is the internal baffles made into it. Of they're cut out you have more flow, but lose runner length. The only way to cut them out is mill them from the bottom then tig the casting closed... which no one that I've met on the webs has done yet.
 
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