After trial and error, here are the best steps I think to remove the 4L60E automatic transmission from my 97 K1500 Z71. Total time is probably about 6-8 hours for a first timer that is mechanically skilled. Mine took longer (3 days) as I didn't have these instructions to start, had to backtrack some steps, the service manual steps are vague. I wasted 4 hours trying to remove the dipstick tube at the point the service manual said by fiddling with the stud from the top. I also spent an inordinate amount of time with frozen exhaust and other nuts. I also wasted a few hours getting tools like the 20" extension and a nut splitter. If anyone knows of something I missed or have some more details (nut sizes, etc) they would like for me to add, just let me know and I will include it.
TOOLS/MATERIALS:
1/2 drive ratchet
30" or so of extension(s)
Wobble extension
Sockets - 18mm regular, 15mm regular, 14mm or 9/16" deepwell, a 13mm regular
3/8" drive ratchet
Sockets - 15mm regular, 14mm or 9/16" deepwell, 10mm regular, 8mm regular
Wrenches - 18mm, 15mm
Flat blade screwdriver
Pry bar
Hammer
Maybe some tape
Flashlight
Possibly a nut splitter
3/8"-16 by 2" long bolt (used during assembly)
Dielectric grease (used during assembly)
REMOVAL STEPS:
01. Spray penetrant on the exhaust manifold/pipe joints, the exhaust joint between catalytic converter and muffler, the bolts on the front and rear of the front drive shaft, the slip joint of the front drive shaft, the bolts holding the rear drive shaft to the read diff yoke, the transmission mount and the bolts holding the crossmember to the frame.
02. Remove the neg battery terminal.
03. Chock tires, raise and support vehicle with at least 19 inches of clearance.
04. Disconnect the 3 o2 sensor connectors.
05. Remove the 6, 3 on each side, nuts (14mm 9/16"?) holding the exhaust pipes to the manifolds. Also remove the 3 nuts/studs on the plate between the catalytic converters and the muffler. Remove the exhaust pipes (I was able to get the trans out with having taken the nuts just off the driver's side manifold and leaving the torque converter cover hanging on the cross pipe but it was a near thing).
06. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the catalytic converter heat shield to the transmission.
07. Remove the transmission pan 13mm bolts starting at one corner. Remove alternating bolts first on one side of the starting corner then on the other. This should allow the pan to drain mainly from the starting corner as it sags lower and lower. Once down to the last few bolts loosen them, lift the pan back into place, and remove the remaining bolts. Drain the pan. Allow the trans to drip/drain for a while. Reinstall the pan with just a couple of bolts.
08. Drain the transfer case fluid.
09. Make alignment marks on the rear drive shaft and the differential yoke.
10. Remove the 4 bolts holding the rear of the drive shaft to the diff yoke (use the e-brake to stop the rotation at the points you need if all 4 wheels off the ground). Push the shaft forward to clear the yoke, tip it down, then pull it to the rear until the front yoke slips out of the transmission (probably get some fluid out of the rear of the transmission and the front of the drive shaft).
11. Make alignment marks on the transfer case yoke, the rear of the front drive shaft, the front of the front drive shaft and the front differential yoke.
12. Remove the 8 bolts holding the front drive shaft to the transfer case and the front diff. Slide the halves together and remove the front drive shaft (if the shaft will not slide together, spray more penetrant on it now, then remove it along with the transfer case - make sure your not under it when it falls).
13. Remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the starter to the engine (I also removed the starter and selenoid wires 10mm and 12mm I think, but you may be able to just tuck the starter up into the frame to get it out of the way and leave the electrical stuff hooked up).
14. Remove the transfer case skid plate by turning the nuts on top of the 4 skid plate bolts (15mm I think) until the whole bolt spun then hold the bolts with a torx bit (I could get much more solid loosening force on the nuts than on the torx bolts).
15. Remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the transmission mount to the transmission.
16. Lift the back of the transfer case and transmission about 1/2 inch with a secondary lift or jack (I used an ordinary floor jack for this).
17. Remove the 2 nuts and washers holding the transmission mount to the cross member.
18. Remove the crossmember by removing 4 18mm nuts/bolts at the frames and turning the crossmember until the ends clear.
19. Disconnect the transfer case linkage (I just pried it out with a flat blade screwdriver).
20. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the top above the shifter and side just in front of the output tube of the transfer case (don't pull on the wires).
21. Disconnect the vent hose.
22. Disconnect the shift cable from the drivers side of the trans. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the cable and clip off the transmission shifter. Pinch the black clip where the shift cable passes thru the bracket and pull the shift cable rearward out of the bracket. Move the cable above the brake lines or some other place to hold it out of the way.
23. Slightly loosen (1/2 turns) the 6 15mm bolts holding the transfer case to the trans and then remove the top 3 (these bolts seemed like they would be much easier to get to with the crossmember already removed).
24. Support the transfer case with a primary lift or jack (I used an ATV jack with 1 cinder block - try to avoid using a floor jack for this, you need something wider, the transfer case or transmission will easily fall off the little 4" circle and there is a risk of breaking an aluminum part or yourself when, not if, it falls).
25. Remove the bottom 3 bolts of the transfer case.
26. Slide the transfer case back a few inches and then lower it a few inches.
27. Check to ensure that nothing is still connected or hung up on the transfer case.
28. Lower the transfer case. Then lift it off the primary jack (careful it's fairly heavy).
29. There is probably still fluid in the transfer case so don't tip it up or turn it with the vent tube down until it's over a drain pan.
30. Remove the 2 driver's side connectors at the transmission shifter.
31. Remove the 8mm bolt holding the wire bracket near the top of the transmission.
32. Remove the 1 passenger side connector to the computer by pinching together on the fore and aft part of the connector and lifting up (it's behind where the heat shield was).
33. Remove the 8mm bolt holding the wire bracket on this side top of the transmission.
34. Remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the brackets that run from the engine to the transmission (I left the engine ends connected).
35. Remove the 6 15mm bolts holding the torque converter cover.
36. Flip the transmission shifter into neutral - 2 clicks back from all the way forward which is park.
37. Using a prybar, turn the flywheel until one of the torque converter bolts is visible. Make alignment marks on the flywheel and the torque converter.
38. Remove the 15mm bolt (I tapped my ratchet with a hammer and was able to get the bolt to spin without the having to block the flywheel). Turn the flywheel and remove the other 2 bolts.
39. Tip the back of the transmission down to allow access to the top bellhousing bolts. Be careful to check clearance between the engine and the firewall and the fan and the fan shroud/radiator while doing this.
40. Slide the plastic collars back and use a 90 bent pick to unclip the cooler lines from the transmission. These slips don't slide straight in they sit in a detent on one or the other end and then rotate to stretch and clip in place.
41. Unplug the cooler lines and tie them back as best you can.
42. Remove the vent hose from the top of the transmission.
43. Loosen the top passenger side 14mm or 9/16" stud/nut holding the dipstick tube bracket to the engine (I've read that this can be done from the top of the engine, but I tried and was unsuccessful. I'm removing the whole transmission anyway so this seemed like a better place for this step). I used a 20" and 10" extension, a universal joint wrapped in tape (poor mans wobble extension), and a deep well 14mm or 9/16" socket (tape the socket to the end of the extension to keep it from coming off on the stud).
44. Pull up on the top of the dipstick tube in the engine compartment to remove (just thought of this but didn't do it - might be easier if possible to stick brybar against the bracket and tap it up with a hammer).
45. Slightly loosen the other 5 stud/nuts holding the transmission to the engine. Remove the remaining top 1.
46. Support the transmission with a primary lift or jack (I used an ATV jack with 2 cinder blocks on it - The balance point is about 1/3 of the way back on the transmission pan).
47. Move the secondary jack to the rear of the engine and support it.
48. Remove the 4 remaining stud/nuts (I found it easier to use a 3/8 drive and just a deep well socket on these.
49. Pull the transmission and the torque converter back a few inches then lower it a few inches (I had to pry at the trans/engine joint a bit as the guide pins were stuck).
50. Check to ensure that nothing is still connected or hung up on the transmission.
51. Lower the transmission (with the transmission on 2 cinderblocks this is more than one step - lower the transmission down to a pair of ground blocks that are taller than the cinder blocks and the jack, remove the 2 cinder blocks from the jack, lift the transmission off the ground blocks, remove the ground blocks, lower the transmission all the way down).
INSTALL STEPS - pretty much reverse order except as follows
01. I used a 3/8"-16 by 2" long bolt to pull the transmission back onto the rear of the engine. The factory studs were just barely not long enough to grab the threads with the guide pins being lined up but not pressed together. I used the longer bolts in the bottom holes tightening a little one each side to pull the trans partly together. Be careful to ensure the trans is straight and the guide pins are seating, the bell housing is just aluminum and any binding could risk damaging the transmission case. Once the threads would start on the studs in the next 2 holes up I tightened all four up little by little for about 3-4 turns. I then removed the long bolts from the bottom holes and installed the studs. Use all 4 studs turning each a little to finish drawing the trans and engine together.
02. Blow through the cooling lines before hooking them back up to the transmission. Blow air into the line that joins the top of the radiator so gravity can assist in removing any contaminants that might remain from the previous trans problems.
03. From the top roughly align the dipstick tube so the bracket is parallel with the back of the engine. From below set the end of the tube into the transmission tube gasket. From the top put an extension (I used my 10") into the top end of the tube. With my right hand on the extension and my left hand down behind the engine and on the bracket I pushed down on the extension until the tube was seated and the bracket was roughly in place. From above take one the stud/nuts and put into the bracket hole and move the tube as needed until it also aligns with the transmission hole. Try to get the threads to start if you can.
04. Put dielectric grease into the connectors before reconnecting.
TOOLS/MATERIALS:
1/2 drive ratchet
30" or so of extension(s)
Wobble extension
Sockets - 18mm regular, 15mm regular, 14mm or 9/16" deepwell, a 13mm regular
3/8" drive ratchet
Sockets - 15mm regular, 14mm or 9/16" deepwell, 10mm regular, 8mm regular
Wrenches - 18mm, 15mm
Flat blade screwdriver
Pry bar
Hammer
Maybe some tape
Flashlight
Possibly a nut splitter
3/8"-16 by 2" long bolt (used during assembly)
Dielectric grease (used during assembly)
REMOVAL STEPS:
01. Spray penetrant on the exhaust manifold/pipe joints, the exhaust joint between catalytic converter and muffler, the bolts on the front and rear of the front drive shaft, the slip joint of the front drive shaft, the bolts holding the rear drive shaft to the read diff yoke, the transmission mount and the bolts holding the crossmember to the frame.
02. Remove the neg battery terminal.
03. Chock tires, raise and support vehicle with at least 19 inches of clearance.
04. Disconnect the 3 o2 sensor connectors.
05. Remove the 6, 3 on each side, nuts (14mm 9/16"?) holding the exhaust pipes to the manifolds. Also remove the 3 nuts/studs on the plate between the catalytic converters and the muffler. Remove the exhaust pipes (I was able to get the trans out with having taken the nuts just off the driver's side manifold and leaving the torque converter cover hanging on the cross pipe but it was a near thing).
06. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the catalytic converter heat shield to the transmission.
07. Remove the transmission pan 13mm bolts starting at one corner. Remove alternating bolts first on one side of the starting corner then on the other. This should allow the pan to drain mainly from the starting corner as it sags lower and lower. Once down to the last few bolts loosen them, lift the pan back into place, and remove the remaining bolts. Drain the pan. Allow the trans to drip/drain for a while. Reinstall the pan with just a couple of bolts.
08. Drain the transfer case fluid.
09. Make alignment marks on the rear drive shaft and the differential yoke.
10. Remove the 4 bolts holding the rear of the drive shaft to the diff yoke (use the e-brake to stop the rotation at the points you need if all 4 wheels off the ground). Push the shaft forward to clear the yoke, tip it down, then pull it to the rear until the front yoke slips out of the transmission (probably get some fluid out of the rear of the transmission and the front of the drive shaft).
11. Make alignment marks on the transfer case yoke, the rear of the front drive shaft, the front of the front drive shaft and the front differential yoke.
12. Remove the 8 bolts holding the front drive shaft to the transfer case and the front diff. Slide the halves together and remove the front drive shaft (if the shaft will not slide together, spray more penetrant on it now, then remove it along with the transfer case - make sure your not under it when it falls).
13. Remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the starter to the engine (I also removed the starter and selenoid wires 10mm and 12mm I think, but you may be able to just tuck the starter up into the frame to get it out of the way and leave the electrical stuff hooked up).
14. Remove the transfer case skid plate by turning the nuts on top of the 4 skid plate bolts (15mm I think) until the whole bolt spun then hold the bolts with a torx bit (I could get much more solid loosening force on the nuts than on the torx bolts).
15. Remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the transmission mount to the transmission.
16. Lift the back of the transfer case and transmission about 1/2 inch with a secondary lift or jack (I used an ordinary floor jack for this).
17. Remove the 2 nuts and washers holding the transmission mount to the cross member.
18. Remove the crossmember by removing 4 18mm nuts/bolts at the frames and turning the crossmember until the ends clear.
19. Disconnect the transfer case linkage (I just pried it out with a flat blade screwdriver).
20. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the top above the shifter and side just in front of the output tube of the transfer case (don't pull on the wires).
21. Disconnect the vent hose.
22. Disconnect the shift cable from the drivers side of the trans. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the cable and clip off the transmission shifter. Pinch the black clip where the shift cable passes thru the bracket and pull the shift cable rearward out of the bracket. Move the cable above the brake lines or some other place to hold it out of the way.
23. Slightly loosen (1/2 turns) the 6 15mm bolts holding the transfer case to the trans and then remove the top 3 (these bolts seemed like they would be much easier to get to with the crossmember already removed).
24. Support the transfer case with a primary lift or jack (I used an ATV jack with 1 cinder block - try to avoid using a floor jack for this, you need something wider, the transfer case or transmission will easily fall off the little 4" circle and there is a risk of breaking an aluminum part or yourself when, not if, it falls).
25. Remove the bottom 3 bolts of the transfer case.
26. Slide the transfer case back a few inches and then lower it a few inches.
27. Check to ensure that nothing is still connected or hung up on the transfer case.
28. Lower the transfer case. Then lift it off the primary jack (careful it's fairly heavy).
29. There is probably still fluid in the transfer case so don't tip it up or turn it with the vent tube down until it's over a drain pan.
30. Remove the 2 driver's side connectors at the transmission shifter.
31. Remove the 8mm bolt holding the wire bracket near the top of the transmission.
32. Remove the 1 passenger side connector to the computer by pinching together on the fore and aft part of the connector and lifting up (it's behind where the heat shield was).
33. Remove the 8mm bolt holding the wire bracket on this side top of the transmission.
34. Remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the brackets that run from the engine to the transmission (I left the engine ends connected).
35. Remove the 6 15mm bolts holding the torque converter cover.
36. Flip the transmission shifter into neutral - 2 clicks back from all the way forward which is park.
37. Using a prybar, turn the flywheel until one of the torque converter bolts is visible. Make alignment marks on the flywheel and the torque converter.
38. Remove the 15mm bolt (I tapped my ratchet with a hammer and was able to get the bolt to spin without the having to block the flywheel). Turn the flywheel and remove the other 2 bolts.
39. Tip the back of the transmission down to allow access to the top bellhousing bolts. Be careful to check clearance between the engine and the firewall and the fan and the fan shroud/radiator while doing this.
40. Slide the plastic collars back and use a 90 bent pick to unclip the cooler lines from the transmission. These slips don't slide straight in they sit in a detent on one or the other end and then rotate to stretch and clip in place.
41. Unplug the cooler lines and tie them back as best you can.
42. Remove the vent hose from the top of the transmission.
43. Loosen the top passenger side 14mm or 9/16" stud/nut holding the dipstick tube bracket to the engine (I've read that this can be done from the top of the engine, but I tried and was unsuccessful. I'm removing the whole transmission anyway so this seemed like a better place for this step). I used a 20" and 10" extension, a universal joint wrapped in tape (poor mans wobble extension), and a deep well 14mm or 9/16" socket (tape the socket to the end of the extension to keep it from coming off on the stud).
44. Pull up on the top of the dipstick tube in the engine compartment to remove (just thought of this but didn't do it - might be easier if possible to stick brybar against the bracket and tap it up with a hammer).
45. Slightly loosen the other 5 stud/nuts holding the transmission to the engine. Remove the remaining top 1.
46. Support the transmission with a primary lift or jack (I used an ATV jack with 2 cinder blocks on it - The balance point is about 1/3 of the way back on the transmission pan).
47. Move the secondary jack to the rear of the engine and support it.
48. Remove the 4 remaining stud/nuts (I found it easier to use a 3/8 drive and just a deep well socket on these.
49. Pull the transmission and the torque converter back a few inches then lower it a few inches (I had to pry at the trans/engine joint a bit as the guide pins were stuck).
50. Check to ensure that nothing is still connected or hung up on the transmission.
51. Lower the transmission (with the transmission on 2 cinderblocks this is more than one step - lower the transmission down to a pair of ground blocks that are taller than the cinder blocks and the jack, remove the 2 cinder blocks from the jack, lift the transmission off the ground blocks, remove the ground blocks, lower the transmission all the way down).
INSTALL STEPS - pretty much reverse order except as follows
01. I used a 3/8"-16 by 2" long bolt to pull the transmission back onto the rear of the engine. The factory studs were just barely not long enough to grab the threads with the guide pins being lined up but not pressed together. I used the longer bolts in the bottom holes tightening a little one each side to pull the trans partly together. Be careful to ensure the trans is straight and the guide pins are seating, the bell housing is just aluminum and any binding could risk damaging the transmission case. Once the threads would start on the studs in the next 2 holes up I tightened all four up little by little for about 3-4 turns. I then removed the long bolts from the bottom holes and installed the studs. Use all 4 studs turning each a little to finish drawing the trans and engine together.
02. Blow through the cooling lines before hooking them back up to the transmission. Blow air into the line that joins the top of the radiator so gravity can assist in removing any contaminants that might remain from the previous trans problems.
03. From the top roughly align the dipstick tube so the bracket is parallel with the back of the engine. From below set the end of the tube into the transmission tube gasket. From the top put an extension (I used my 10") into the top end of the tube. With my right hand on the extension and my left hand down behind the engine and on the bracket I pushed down on the extension until the tube was seated and the bracket was roughly in place. From above take one the stud/nuts and put into the bracket hole and move the tube as needed until it also aligns with the transmission hole. Try to get the threads to start if you can.
04. Put dielectric grease into the connectors before reconnecting.
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