TOW RIG OVERHAUL! need answers!!!

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Van Gui1d3r #838

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So the deal is my 1990 dually was a 454 truck that was swapped to a 350 when the 454 blew up before I acquired it. I then had the truck a few thousand miles and ended up blowing a head gasket between cylinders 3 and 5 leaning the engine out... contemplated rebuilding the top end but then got a killer deal on a 1989 Winnebago chieftain with the 454 in it with only 27xxx miles and ran and drove great! pulled the trigger on it for 1600 bucks and went to work on the swap.

its a carb 454!

I will post pics from the swap later for you guys but I need help as to a few issues I've run into along the way...
1. gas tank was bad in my truck so I yanked the 55-65 gallon tank out of the Winnebago and am in the process of mounting in the front of my box, dilemma I'm running into is, if its the slightest bit above the carb, could that cause a gravity feed or syphoning condition and pull fuel from the tank and through the quadrojet and flood the engine when truck is not running? I only ask because I was told this could be an issue and it frightens me to possibly have to deal with this on a business investment vehicle... I need reliability.

2. I've deleted all the emissions crap and I want to eliminate the smog pump from the serpentine belt, along with a new alternator bracket because the 454 one hits the hood. should I just cut the old belt, wrap it around the new pattern and measure it to get an accurate length on what ill need from NAPA?

3. what will be ideal exhaust for a bone stock 454 with long tube headers? I'm going duals probably with an H-pipe for TQ but I don't want to go too small or too large. the engine is freed up from all emissions crap completely and I want it to run the best it can

all input is needed and especially input on #1.

if you have any suggestions into making this even betterthan I am this far, feel free to chime in as well
 

badazzbulldog

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with a mechanical it should only pull when running,plus your fuel line will be lower thru its run under the truck I may be wrong but that shouldnt flood when not running.We had a ten gallon can of gas running to the fuel pump on my buddies 62 fairlane while waiting for the new tank to arrive and it sat on the trucklid so we could run it to time and tune it and that never siphoned or flooded
 

Van Gui1d3r #838

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does anyone make an inline electronic valve I could wire to my ignition to be safe? I've looked it up numerous times but can only find something like that for 1/4" lines and my fuel line is 7/16".
 

skylark

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I would replace every gasket and seal in that engine. I have had too many gasket and seal failures on low mileage vehicles over the years.
 

slowburb

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I used to know a guy named Cliff from "Green-wich" NY, went to HVCC with my brother back in the early 90's.

I'm pretty sure there is a check valve in a mechanical fuel pump. You should be fine with 2.50" pipe if it is mandrel bent. If the pipe will be crush/crinkle bent, go with 3.00" pipe. Your plan for the belt makes sense, just try to leave with a few knowing you'll return what doesn't work unless you want to make a few trips to the store.
 

Van Gui1d3r #838

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I used to know a guy named Cliff from "Green-wich" NY, went to HVCC with my brother back in the early 90's.

I'm pretty sure there is a check valve in a mechanical fuel pump. You should be fine with 2.50" pipe if it is mandrel bent. If the pipe will be crush/crinkle bent, go with 3.00" pipe. Your plan for the belt makes sense, just try to leave with a few knowing you'll return what doesn't work unless you want to make a few trips to the store.

I enjoyed the correct pronunciation of my hometown haha. did you use to live in NY?

I was planning on dumping the exhaust before the rear wheels, I don't know if this will effect backpressure being much shorter...

i'll look into the fuel pump on whether it has a check valve... I never thought about that. but wouldn't that just eliminate fuel from flowing backwards more to protect against losing prime? my concern is if it may allow fuel by from a syphon effect or gravity feed because my tank is mounted in the bed
 

Nathaniel2g

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I enjoyed the correct pronunciation of my hometown haha. did you use to live in NY?

I was planning on dumping the exhaust before the rear wheels, I don't know if this will effect backpressure being much shorter...

i'll look into the fuel pump on whether it has a check valve... I never thought about that. but wouldn't that just eliminate fuel from flowing backwards more to protect against losing prime? my concern is if it may allow fuel by from a syphon effect or gravity feed because my tank is mounted in the bed

Imo you'd need to have air flowing through the carb in order for the fuel to be sucked at all. And you can only suck out what is left in your float bowls without the pump running.
 
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