The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

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laidbackbigun

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It's a 1992 5.7 so it has the separate sending unit for gauge on side of head. The aftermarket sending unit is in upper radiator hose. The stock unit in dash reads 110 to 120ish. The aftermarket glowshift reads 180 to 190.
 

redfishsc

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I have a friend with a 99 Tahoe, 5.7, that will not start, he's selling it to me for $500 if I decide to buy it. The problem is the Passlock system. Engine will actually crank and momentarily start/sputter. Fuel pressure is fine, fuel pump has a few thousand miles on it (he replaced it thinking this was the problem before he discovered the Passlock demon was the culprit.

Doing the key relearn doesn't work anymore.

Truck has 197K miles on it, oil is clean, maintenance has been otherwise been kept up with.

Trans was replaced new at 140K, rear end rebuild with new ring/pinion at about 180K.

I'm about to buy this thing but need some assurance from someone that this Passlock bullshit can be defeated. He's already had "a friend" try the resistor thing but that didn't work, but there's no guarantee he knew which resistor value to get. He may have just used "what his other buddy" used.
 

skylark

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2.2k resistor and do a relearn. It will learn the new value (2.2k) and you are golden. I just did this on a 97 about a month ago.
 
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I apologize in advance if this question has been answered before. I tried searching google and threads with not much luck but here is my question for crankshaft pulley replacement.
I have a wobble on my crankshaft pulley that's annoying because it's making my tensioner tick and it's probably going to lead to something worse.
My question is should I just replace the pulley or get the balancer along with it and install them at the same time.
If it's doing both is there a new seal that I should buy as well to install where it mates with the engine?
I believe I may be leaking some oil at this spot as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated :)
Its a 97 k1500 5.0
 

Hipster

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I apologize in advance if this question has been answered before. I tried searching google and threads with not much luck but here is my question for crankshaft pulley replacement.
I have a wobble on my crankshaft pulley that's annoying because it's making my tensioner tick and it's probably going to lead to something worse.
My question is should I just replace the pulley or get the balancer along with it and install them at the same time.
If it's doing both is there a new seal that I should buy as well to install where it mates with the engine?
I believe I may be leaking some oil at this spot as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated :)
Its a 97 k1500 5.0

Balancer hubs don't usually bend. Possible maybe, but not very likely. It takes quite a bit of force to bend a pulley such as mishandling/dropping if the engine was out. If you replace both and still have wobble it's possible the crankshaft snout is bent. The timing cover has a seal around the crank snout, but if it's the crank that's the problem replacing the seal is not likely to solve the oil leak.
 

tinfoil_hat

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I apologize in advance if this question has been answered before. I tried searching google and threads with not much luck but here is my question for crankshaft pulley replacement.
I have a wobble on my crankshaft pulley that's annoying because it's making my tensioner tick and it's probably going to lead to something worse.
My question is should I just replace the pulley or get the balancer along with it and install them at the same time.
If it's doing both is there a new seal that I should buy as well to install where it mates with the engine?
I believe I may be leaking some oil at this spot as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated :)
Its a 97 k1500 5.0
You might be able to square the pulley up by pulling it and reseating it. Some parts stores will lend rent you the tool. I wouldnt worry overmuch about ticking in the tensioner. Take the belt off and examine it for fraying at the edges or uneven wear. If you dont see anything then don't sweat it.
 

jeff1953

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I got a stupid one, I have a 96 Chevy4x4 4.3 v6 auto, we were going to do a 5.7 swap but it wouldn't fire to the plugs, so hooked the 4.3 back up, now sometimes the air bag light comes on and stays on and sometimes it goes back off and usually the engine is missing when the light on, so can someone help me with some info. Thank you.
 
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Have new issues :( lower than normal oil pressure and a misfire. Noticed both issues the other night and they seem to be somehow related. Possibly a coincidence but any ideas would be awesome! I'm Hoping maybe just plugs and or oil Sending unit.
 

Blue Turd

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Have new issues :( lower than normal oil pressure and a misfire. Noticed both issues the other night and they seem to be somehow related. Possibly a coincidence but any ideas would be awesome! I'm Hoping maybe just plugs and or oil Sending unit.

The low oil pressure reading is most likely occurring due to the misfire (engine not running at enough rpm especially at idle). So I would probably diagnose that first before changing out the oil pump or sending unit. Could be as easy as plugs or cap/rotor like you mentioned.
 

cool_as_crap

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Stupid question: How crucial are the cylinder head location pins (dowels)?
I'm missing one, if I can line the head up right without it will I be ok?

454 vortec

Thanks!
 
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