The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

[df2x4]

Personally if your temp gauge is reading good I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[laidbackbigun]

Truck runs awesome. Unfortunately my stock temp gauge reads low all the time so i cant be sure of proper opersting temperature.

 

[Blue Turd]

Truck runs awesome. Unfortunately my stock temp gauge reads low all the time so i cant be sure of proper opersting temperature.

Best way to check temp is by shooting a laser temperature gun at the head right where the thermostat is. Should be around 195 degrees F. You can see what temp the computer reads as well if you have an obd1 scan tool.

On my truck when it's running at a perfect 195, the temp gauge is like a tick or two above the marking between 100-210 on the guage.

 

[laidbackbigun]

Thanks thats a great idea

Best way to check temp us by shooting a laser temperature gun at the head right where the thermostat is. Shibe be around 195 degrees F. You can see what temp the computer reads as well if you have an obd1 scan tool.

On my truck when it's running at a perfect 195 the temp gauge is like a tick or two above the marking between 100-210 on the guage.

 

[Br1an]

So i have a 93 half ton with the 5.7, a 4l60 that I'm going to upgrade to a 4l80 instead of rebuilding it, and a semi float 14 bolt rear axle and under load it will hesitate like it's running on 6 cylinders when it's warmed up and I was thinking that it could be the MAP sensor causing a problem with timing or it could be something in the trans because I have to manually shift it from 2-3, don't have 4, and I only occasionally have 1st. I seen on fb on an LBZ Dmax page that a guy had a similar issue and it turns out it was the torque converter, could it be the converter because it's overheated a couple of times, one of the times one of the heater hoses blew off and I got up to ~250. Thanks in advance.

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[Blue Turd]

Check your ignition control module as well (the little box screwed to the distributor under the cap). When mine started pooping out it would be fine till it got up to running temperature, than anything over like 1500 rpm it would sputter and run real bad (no power). If you pushed it to far the motor would die out. Its cheap enough to just replace (about 30 bucks for an AcDelco one), but you might be able to buy some time for yourself and reapply new heat transfer grease. This helps it use the distributor as a heat sink (like CPU thermal paste if you do any computer work), otherwise it overheats and causes ignition issues.

 

[Br1an]

Check your ignition control module as well (the little box screwed to the distributor under the cap). When mine started pooping out it would be fine till it got up to running temperature, than anything over like 1500 rpm it would sputter and run real bad (no power). If you pushed it to far the motor would die out. Its cheap enough to just replace (about 30 bucks for an AcDelco one), but you might be able to buy some time for yourself and reapply new heat transfer grease. This helps it use the distributor as a heat sink (like CPU thermal paste if you do any computer work), otherwise it overheats and causes ignition issues.

K, thanks for the info. I do have an idea for if I do build a new engine for the truck, I want to run coil near plug ignition and multiport fuel injection and was thinking for the cam wheel I would use an LS cam wheel and sensor but I don't know if it will bolt up to a gen 1 sbc cam along with what intake I would use for the multiport injection.

Would it just be easier to stick a 6 liter LS out of a truck under the hood and upgrade the cam, heads, intake, and oil pan than building a 350 or 355 whichever it would be and trying to figure out the fuel injection and ignition? I imagine the two would put out about the same power but the LS would be easier to do. Thanks in advance.

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[Br1an]

Speaking of computer work, I'm planning a computer build and will be using a self contained water cooler for the CPU, it's going to be an i7 7700k on a Gigabyte 270X motherboard with a pair of Nvidia GeForce 1080 GPUs with an HB bridge, would you recommend using some thermal paste on the CPU or would I be fine? I realize it's probably a question better suited for a computer forum but hey while I'm here I might as well ask

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[Blue Turd]

Speaking of computer work, I'm planning a computer build and will be using a self contained water cooler for the CPU, it's going to be an i7 7700k on a Gigabyte 270X motherboard with a pair of Nvidia GeForce 1080 GPUs with an HB bridge, would you recommend using some thermal paste on the CPU or would I be fine? I realize it's probably a question better suited for a computer forum but hey while I'm here I might as well ask

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Huge computer nerd as well. You always have to use thermal paste. Makes a huge difference in temps. Glad you have computer stuff, cause you could try it on your ignition module lol. Thought about using my fancy Arctic Silver on my truck, but the AcDelco unit came pre applied the proper grease, so I went with that.

This is just a quick Q and A thread for the most part, so try to save the off topic stuff for another thread or the chat thread.

 

[94silveraydo]

Thinking this question is stupid enough for the stupid engine question thread.

Recently bought a '92 C1500 with a 5.7TBI motor that had a really bad top end tick. Tore into it a bit today to find one of the rockers was a lot more loose than the rest of them. I took it off and pulled the pushrod out, and it is warped enough to see with just a glance. Pushrods are cheap as dirt, but the lifters are a tad more expensive being it's mid month and I just spent my savings on a truck lol.

Would it do much harm to just replace the one lifter and pushrod and then redo all of them at once when I have more cash burning a hole in my wallet, or should I just drive my '94 around until I can afford to do them all at once?