The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

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Big D

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Thanks auto zone says 2784(same one you got) and the cheapest one on ebay is located one city over from me, so if its wrong I can drive it back.
 

Blue Turd

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Thanks auto zone says 2784(same one you got) and the cheapest one on ebay is located one city over from me, so if its wrong I can drive it back.

Don't forget that you can do the online to store pickup option for Advance and rack up mad coupons. The code TRT30 almost always works for any purchase over 50 bucks. That way it brings the price to the level of rockauto or amazon without the shipping or wait.
 

Blue Turd

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Just looked up my order. I had purchased a 2734, which is the same thing just the "heavy duty" model as opposed to the 2784 "severe duty". The severe duty one just runs more, but that is probably what you would want on an HD truck like a 3500, especially if you do any amount of towing.
 

Big D

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Unfortunately I dont have an advance, I got autozones around me for days one big pep boys full of idiots and an O'reilys that ive really grown to like because of readily available parts, however they dont offer as many lifetime warranties.

ill have to try the online order to store pick up with autozone or o'reilys, see if they got coupons. If I can get down to Amazon/rockauto/ebay prices, that would be sweet.
 

Big D

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Im having trouble finding a hard part # on a Power Steering pulley any one swap one out recently.

91 c3500 7.4L AC 2wd. cloth seats:)
 

tannerezell077

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94 chevy 1500 died and won't start. shut off while i was pulling in the driveway and wouldn't start back. almost like the battery was dead or the alternator went bad. i plugged up the battery overnight to charge it up and came out this morning and cranked it and it started but then died instantly. the lights go dim and almost off when i crank it. i got the battery and alt tested and both test good. replaced ignition coil and still no luck. could it still be a bad alt just testing okay on bench?
 
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Im not a pro tannerezell but i think it could be an alternator. yeah the alternator can test good on a bench and still be bad because on the tester its not actually under load trying to crank an engine full of oil. Hey just out of curiosity, I would kind of like to get feedback on this. Do you guys think it would be worth it to tear apart my engine down to the cylinder heads and expose the tops of my pistons and combustion chambers to clean any and all carbon build ups and possibly all sludge from the valley as a "preventative maintenance"? Upon reassembly I would replace all gaskets as well.
I have an understanding that a new turn key is cheaper than a rebuild but would really like to see how long i can get this baby to survive with no major overhauls.
Please comment and converse with any and all thoughts related to this topic :)
 

tannerezell077

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still no luck with the dead truck. i tried a new starter alternator ignition coil and even tried jumping the starter to the battery and no luck. truck still ascts dead and it will crank once or twice but then acts compliantly dead. tried jumping it off to another vehicle and no luck. could the battery be so dead it won't even jump off or anything? the battery is pretty much the only thing i haven't tried. mine gets about 11volts then drops to almost 3 when i crank it
 

Big D

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11 volts and down to 3 sounds like a dead battery. it should read 12+ volts initially and typically not drop below 9-10 volts when you crank it.
 

Greg36

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Please help! So my 2000 K3500 with a 7.4l Vortec was squealing found out that the tensioner doesnt apply tension anymore so went to get a new one found out that they are not in production anymore so found one on eBay where they custom make a different one to fit the 96 to 2000 7.4 vortec by putting a little extension bracket to make it fit. I ordered it and installed it properly, part seems to be exactly the same as my old one minus the extension, my belt routing is correct but I can't get my belt on it's too tight. I can't figure it out!!
 
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