Rough Country 4"/6" kit install tips.

[90W7]

Whoops, just realized you said e-brake cables. Not sure on those w/the new axle.

Sent from my throttle body injected galaxy note3

 

[BOTTLEDZ28]

Those are for the front. What is the part number for them.

Also, my question is for the rear Ebrake cables

 

[90W7]

Those are for the front. What is the part number for them.

Also, my question is for the rear Ebrake cables

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Brakes-Steering/Brake-Hose-Kit.aspx?t_c=65&t_s=22&t_pt=4159&t_pn=EXP7225
Exp7225 is the part number and it includes both front lines AND the rear line even tho the pic only shows 2 lines. I called them to make sure it fit my truck.. Might be the same For your 2 door but I'd double check.

If I recall the e-brake cables have enough slack in the rear axle area but now I'm curious. I'll have to look tomorrow.

Sent from my throttle body injected galaxy note3

 

[BOTTLEDZ28]

Anyone else care to chime in and tell me what 3 hose kits you bought when doing a lift kit? The one listed above z(ProComp) seems to be decent kit but one online review claims that it required an additional fitting to make it work.

 

[EDS_5_OH]

Our labor rates are $65 per hour. The typical GMT400 kit is about 10 hours, so can expect to shell out $650 for installation. However on the plus side, due to the age of these trucks the suspension components almost always need to be replaced for safe lift installation. So we typically replace the worn parts (ball joints, tie rods, pitman, idler arms, etc) at no additional labor cost. Its a fairly substantial savings considering the amount of labor involved just those components.

One trick I would recommend that I found, the sway bar end links on these trucks are a solid bolt with rubber on each end and sleeve in the middle. Its terrible design and wears out quite easily. Use Part # K750362 to replace it when you do your lift and you will be much happier. It is a greaseable Moog link that has joint on each end of it. This will allow for greater flex/life and easier installation than a stock replacement for a Chevy/GMC. Warning to you diehards that is a replacement part for a 2010-Up Ford F150. I found that part to work out of shear frustration trying to install the GM unit into the lower control arm.

Have any pictures of how you installed these Sway bar end links? I'm going to order a set. Not clear on how to mount on the lower boxed control arm.

 

[EDS_5_OH]

Anyone have any pictures of how much material they removed from the differential? It's not clear from the instructions what can hit and where exactly to remove material. Is this something I can mock up in place and mark with a sharpie or something? This is the last step before beginning re-assembly. Been a long road but we are replacing, cleaning, and painting everything under the truck as we go.

 

[bluex]

Ya just mock it up an mark it then grind till it fits. Tha aluminum grinds quick though so be careful.

 

[BOTTLEDZ28]

Anyone else have any issues with the Kicker Braces not lining up to the mounting holes in the trans crossmember? Mine are short and drilling it is almost not an option because the hole in the brace lines up with the very edge of the brace and I'll never be able to get a washer and nut on the top side of the crossmember.

1998 2 door.

rough country says to just re angle the braces over towards the center more and then drill
a hole.

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Rough country says to do this.. I'm not
to happy about their answer.

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[bluex]

From what I remember mine went in an existing hole but it's been a while so I can't say for certain.

 

[BOTTLEDZ28]

Update on my install...

kicker braces are bolted up but I had to drill my own holes. ABS light is on due to a gear swap and speedo is also off. Job took 2 days to do on a lift. It fit like crap and I will never suggest this kit to anyone who wheels their truck. If I ever do it again, I will go with a knuckle lift from a better company.