Thought I would make a thread for tips/tricks on installing the Rough Country 4”/6” lift kit. I looked around everywhere for something like this and didn’t see one anywhere. The kit comes with really good instructions but there are some things that can be done better or need to be done different. Read the instructions completely a few times before starting and make sure you have all the tools and parts you need before starting. Give yourself plenty of time to do this, I personally think the 6-8 hr install time is a joke. If your doing this alone or with occasional help, plan on it taking an entire weekend.
First soak everything with a penetrating oil of your choice very well starting about a week ahead of install time. Make sure you get the T-bars at the a-arm and keys done and soak them good. I like to use kroil, it’s the best I’ve seen and used, you can get it here: http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html
I will go through the issues I had in the instructions now, like I said they are very good and I won’t go through every step just the ones I had an issue with.
Step 30 cutting the bump stop bracket off. Have quite a few saw all blades for this step. I kept bending them because they would hit the a-arm mount and went through about 5 just on this step. Use the upper a-arm drop bracket to make sure you cut/ground enough out so it sits flat.
Step 36 installing the torsion bar cross member. Check your cross member before doing this step. Mine only had a hole big enough to get a punch in it to knock the bars forward. I’ve spoken with a few other members and there cross members had a hole large enough to slide the entire bar through from the back. Mine didn’t work like that and when I got to step 74 I couldn’t get them in without dropping the cross member again. So leave it out unless you can put the bars through from the back.
Step 50 says to install the CV axle assembly back onto the diff. I could not get the axle back into the knuckle with it already bolted to the diff. I would move this step to 52 and move 51 to 50 and 52 to 51. I put the knuckle on and torqued the ball joints then turned the knuckle installed the CV axle into the knuckle and then onto the diff. That was the easiest way for me. It’s also impossible to get a torque wrench on the upper ball joint nut with the axle already in the knuckle.
Step 58 put the bolts with the threads/nuts facing the outside of the truck. If you don’t they will cover the holes for the skid plate. If you look at photo 44 you will see that. I’m sure they had to flip theirs also.
Step 69 I recommend installing braided stainless lines here rather than modifying the factory hard line. This is mainly personal preference and weather you want to spend the extra $100 or not. I feel it’s worth it with the age most of the trucks are getting on them and the risk of kinking/breaking your factory hard line. The brakes have to bled either way so in my opinion you should step up to a superior line both front and rear, which I did along with new 1 ton calipers up front.
Step 74 Installing the Torsion bars. Clean all the crud off the bar ends, inside the pocket on the a-arm and in the keys. Use grease to help them slide through; I used the same stuff I grease my front end with. I had to put them through the a-arm as far as they would go, install the torsion bar cross member and then index them correctly and slid them back into the keys. With everything really clean and greased it was no problem for me but my truck doesn’t have a lot of rust either.
This is a good time to replace all the wear items in the front end. I did upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, pitman, idler and bracket, sway bar bushings and end links. When I pulled the steering box it was a mess so I replaced it as well. This will add another 8-10 hrs worth of work to the install. I had about 5-6 hrs in ball joints alone. All total I have at least 30 hrs on my install but I had some issues that held me up as well. I did about 85-90% of this install alone. It is a lot of work but the lift rides great and I have better angles than stock with just the 4”. Just give yourself plenty of time for the install and possibly have a backup vehicle in case you run into problems like I did.
I hope this helps some others out cause I know there is a lot of talk around here about people wanting this lift. If anyone else has any other tips or anything I left out please add them here. I will be glad to answer any questions anyone has as well.
First soak everything with a penetrating oil of your choice very well starting about a week ahead of install time. Make sure you get the T-bars at the a-arm and keys done and soak them good. I like to use kroil, it’s the best I’ve seen and used, you can get it here: http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html
I will go through the issues I had in the instructions now, like I said they are very good and I won’t go through every step just the ones I had an issue with.
Step 30 cutting the bump stop bracket off. Have quite a few saw all blades for this step. I kept bending them because they would hit the a-arm mount and went through about 5 just on this step. Use the upper a-arm drop bracket to make sure you cut/ground enough out so it sits flat.
Step 36 installing the torsion bar cross member. Check your cross member before doing this step. Mine only had a hole big enough to get a punch in it to knock the bars forward. I’ve spoken with a few other members and there cross members had a hole large enough to slide the entire bar through from the back. Mine didn’t work like that and when I got to step 74 I couldn’t get them in without dropping the cross member again. So leave it out unless you can put the bars through from the back.
Step 50 says to install the CV axle assembly back onto the diff. I could not get the axle back into the knuckle with it already bolted to the diff. I would move this step to 52 and move 51 to 50 and 52 to 51. I put the knuckle on and torqued the ball joints then turned the knuckle installed the CV axle into the knuckle and then onto the diff. That was the easiest way for me. It’s also impossible to get a torque wrench on the upper ball joint nut with the axle already in the knuckle.
Step 58 put the bolts with the threads/nuts facing the outside of the truck. If you don’t they will cover the holes for the skid plate. If you look at photo 44 you will see that. I’m sure they had to flip theirs also.
Step 69 I recommend installing braided stainless lines here rather than modifying the factory hard line. This is mainly personal preference and weather you want to spend the extra $100 or not. I feel it’s worth it with the age most of the trucks are getting on them and the risk of kinking/breaking your factory hard line. The brakes have to bled either way so in my opinion you should step up to a superior line both front and rear, which I did along with new 1 ton calipers up front.
Step 74 Installing the Torsion bars. Clean all the crud off the bar ends, inside the pocket on the a-arm and in the keys. Use grease to help them slide through; I used the same stuff I grease my front end with. I had to put them through the a-arm as far as they would go, install the torsion bar cross member and then index them correctly and slid them back into the keys. With everything really clean and greased it was no problem for me but my truck doesn’t have a lot of rust either.
This is a good time to replace all the wear items in the front end. I did upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, pitman, idler and bracket, sway bar bushings and end links. When I pulled the steering box it was a mess so I replaced it as well. This will add another 8-10 hrs worth of work to the install. I had about 5-6 hrs in ball joints alone. All total I have at least 30 hrs on my install but I had some issues that held me up as well. I did about 85-90% of this install alone. It is a lot of work but the lift rides great and I have better angles than stock with just the 4”. Just give yourself plenty of time for the install and possibly have a backup vehicle in case you run into problems like I did.
I hope this helps some others out cause I know there is a lot of talk around here about people wanting this lift. If anyone else has any other tips or anything I left out please add them here. I will be glad to answer any questions anyone has as well.
Don't mind the sticker, I bought it slightly used...
if you would have told me it would happen. 
i figured it would happen u could resist haha
