Rough Country 2-3" vs 4"

[jcro61]

The new uca's actually help out the ball joint angles, ask me how I know. Cranking the keys is what puts alot of stress on the front end components. The uca's are there to correct the issue that the keys produce. They may be in the stock location, but are angled differently and have different pockets for mounting the balljoints to relieve the bad angles. After cranking even stock keys more than an inch, an alignment should always be performed on the truck. When I put the uca's on my truck, I went ahead and replaced all ball joints, tie rods, tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm etc just to be safe. As for the aal, they are actually good for 2 inches, not 1. The difference between the RCX 4" and 6" is only an aal for the rear. They have the same kit for the front, the 6 just requires you to crank to achieve that extra 2". As for rear bumper brackets, just flip the factory ones, or make your own out of the stock ones. I've been wheeling on my new uca's, Ford keys, and 6+3 on 35's for awhile and there has been no bending. If they are contacting the bump stops constantly, probably cranked a little to high and hitting **** pretty hard.

CV's aren't angled too bad

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balljoint looking down

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balljoint looking in

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The front is cranked to sit higher than the rear

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The 2-3" kit isn't that bad of a kit, if thats all you want for a lift. As long as you don't crank the hell out of it, the ride doesn't suffer too bad, and like I stated earlier, I've been wheeling mine probably close to 2 years just like this an haven't had to get an alignment or replace balljoints, CV's, tie rods etc.

thank your for your first hand experience

 

[Mudd Duk]

No problem dude.

 

[Excessive]

The 2-3" lift is not worth it, it includes new uppedr control arms that allow the cv to run beyond their limits and possibly break.they include shock extenders for the front? why not just longer shocks? also the front is 2-3' the rear is only an add a leaf wich will only be about an inch when it is done so you will need a block if you want the rear to match. that is extra$ then the instructions reccomend new upper balljoints. and an alignment. so all said and done you are looking at closer to $700-800 when it is done and it will ride like a lumber wagon and wear parts like crazy.IMO

The reason the lift in the rear isn't as high as the front is because trucks have rake from the factory. So if you put 2" in the front and 2" in the rear it'll sit un level most likely. I think you'll find that a few lift kits will even use a smaller lift block in the rear and sometimes go even smaller and combine it with an add a leaf. Im running pretty much exactly the same kit but 'Sky Jacker' so it doesnt have the keys and its pretty much level, if anything a little lower in the front.

Also the fact that the kit uses a diff drop bracket means that CV angles shouldn't be to much of a problem, i know mine are pretty close to stock. Plus 2" is pretty average for any leveling kit, i wouldn't be worried about crazy CV angles with only 2" of lift in the front. I've seen much worse being ran.

 

[Mike]

Those upper arms look like a great way to solve your balljoint problems. I would probably cut off the metal bumpstops and switch to limit straps with those to get that extra bit of travel.

 

[Mudd Duk]

Those upper arms look like a great way to solve your balljoint problems. I would probably cut off the metal bumpstops and switch to limit straps with those to get that extra bit of travel.

Actually working on something like that right now. Those pics are a little dated, you can still see the endlinks and sway bar, those have been gone for awhile. At the shop right now getting the 38.5's mounted. BOGGERs FTMFW!