Project Daily Driver

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Dubs

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As far interior, I hear yeah !! I went to a few regular junkyards and u pull its and I came out empty handed. I kept searching Craigslist and I found what I needed which was the 60/40 bench so I can ditch my solid bench. Only thing was, was that it was 2 hours away on the other side of the state !! So I did a road trip with the family and scooped it up for $100. It didn't come with seat risers/ tracks but I got those from the u pull it yard from a beat up 60/40 bench yesterday and sprayed them black. You gotta keep searching. The dude I bought my bench from did the seat bucket swap and got his seats off a 2nd row minivan like a Venture or Silhouette and said minor modifications to make it fit.

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I look at the minivans too. I would like something like the setup I have out of my Tundra. I'm changing over to a 4L60E from Monster. I know people don't like them but I don't have anyone around that I've found that will do a build like what they offer. It comes with the Computrol trans controller. I can put it in manual mode and shift that way. Like the his and hers shifters.
 

Dubs

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Update on radiator. Well it hit 95 here yesterday and sitting in traffic with the A/C on it never went above 194. So I'd say that's a success. I know on these Vortecs the operating range is 190-220, so not a biggie. But I like to stay as close to 190 as I can get.

This weekend I'll throw a bigger coil in. I'm running .040 gap right now but I think I'm not getting a good burn because those heads are designed for a .060 gap. So hotter coil and put in Autolite 605 plugs. I'll update after a week of running.
 

Dubs

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Well Saturday I was able to put the hotter coil in and run .060 gap. I need to do a compression test on #4. I may have a valve seat leaking or a ring. Some oil on the threads of the plug. #2 was pure white and had bad corrosion on it. So, checked the timing and somehow it had worked it's way up to 18*. Reset timing to 11 and will check on Wed. to make sure the dizzy isn't walking. Runs a ton better, which is probably from the timing being that far advanced. Idle is a lot smoother as well.

Radiator works awesome. I sit at 194 with a/c on high and 95* in traffic.

Next upgrade is to see if I can fit Esky buckets and console in. Start Dynomatting everything and get this interior done.
 
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Couple more pics. Intake gasket was leaking so I replaced it. And the Fitech. under the hood is cleaned up a lot from when this pic was taken. Need to take a new one.

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I want to do the Fitech swap on my 94 K2500 4x4, I know factory distributor will not work, what else do I need to do this?
 

Dubs

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You'll need an intake if I remember correctly. I think you still have TBI which is just 2 holes in the intake. You'll need one for a Holley or a spacer. But I'd just change intake. O2 bung which you already have. If you're running an automatic make sure you tap that wire in with the tach signal otherwise your tranny will not lock up. I think it's the purple one but don't quote me. I have a 5 speed. That's all I can think of at the moment. Sorry for the delayed response. I've been dealing with all kinds of other stuff that hasn't allowed me to focus on the truck again. I'm getting ready to post a bunch of pics of changes I've done and what I'm working on currently.
 

Dubs

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Update on Coil with .60 gap:

After fixing the intake gasket leak a second time do to my own stupidity of not having the proper torque specs and changing coil out truck runs way better. Idles much better in traffic and with the a/c on. It's amazing the work load an a/c compressor puts on a motor. In July driving the truck I did hit 200* sitting in traffic. But again, not a biggie.

I was still having issues with my throttle sticking so I changed over to a Lokar cable and different throttle bracket. First attempt cut the cable to short. DOH!! I have a new cable just haven't had time to put it on. Hurricane Irma really set me back. My living room looks like a parts warehouse and my loving wife is getting tired of looking at parts. LOL. She really loved it when the SSBC box showed up for the rear disc conversion.

So hopefully with in the next couple weeks I can get the Gauge cluster done, disc brake swap done, and new clutch and flywheel, etc. that goes with that.
 

Chevyjunkie95

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I used to live in south Florida with my 95 and I used to run a 180° Thermostat in it. Helped keep it cooler on those hot fl days.
Also upgraded to a 4 core rad.
Since I moved to NC I wen back to the 195°

Got questions going back to Your jeep wheels.
What size tires are on them?
Did you need spacers?
Any issues?

I just picked up a brand new takeoff set of 2017 17” to put on my 95 2wd and would appreciate any heads up you could throw my way.
 

Dubs

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Finally got some time to install the SSBC disc brake conversion in the rear. Well started too and then realized I ordered the wrong damn brackets to hold the calipers on. My truck was 10" drums, not 11". DOH! $100 F/U there. I can't get the brake line cracked from the rear main line to the Y over the rear axle. Guess I'll have to order a new line and cut the old one out. I did put new axle seals in. Axle splines looked good. carrier looked good. I'll swap it out later with a LS system. I did get my gauge cluster put together. Just need to install it now. (Special thanks to KnuckleDragger for showing me the Dolphin Gauge insert) Pic below. Ordered new Brake booster as well. Got a powder coated one. Mine was rusted so bad. I need to know the knuckle size that goes over the pin on the break pedal so I can order one. Mine was universal with threads on the end of the push rod to the booster.

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Dubs

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Scored seats out of a 2010 DTS at the U-pull it place last weekend. Power, heated, cooled, and massager built in. I have to bypass the UART on the driver side to get it working. but passenger side works great.

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Dubs

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Finally got some time this weekend. I got a chance to get the posi in and the brackets for the disc brake conversion bolted up and axles back in.

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