Post your lifted 2wd's!

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dcp1992

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From what I understand the hardest part is fabing it to the frame up front correct? Are you going leaf or coil over?

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One of the hard parts is finding the axles as a decent price (or finding them at all, took me over a year looking off and on to find my axle). People charge a fortune for the early Ford Dana 44 because they know people want them for SAS's. (I am actually looking at possibly getting a Dana 60 though and saving the 44 for my Jeep) But yeah, the next part is actually measuring twice... 5 times (or more) and making sure everything is straight before welding (or bolting, but welding is stronger IMO).

I would love to go coil springs and a 4 link, but I'm taking the easy way out and going leaf springs. ORU makes a kit that is specific to the 2wd trucks, i was just going to get Offroad Design's kit (which works on 2wd or 4wd) which is cheaper than ORU's kit, but I decided to get the better kit (ORU) that comes with more components and nice detailed instructions and less stuff extra to buy.
 
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SAS is a big step. I've been reading off and on for years (even before I got the Yukon because my buddy wanted to SAS his '95 z71 about 5 years ago.) and I'm still finding things out. But anything I find, I bookmark and save it for rereading later... and I have quite a few websites/forum post about them. Not to mention the parts places.

As of right now all I have is a Dana 44 out of a 1979 F250 and a wiring harness from a 1996 K2500 with a 4L80E. Still have a lot more to go (99-10 FF14 bolt, 4L80E, Transfer Case, New ECU programed for 4L80E, ORU's 2wd specific swap kit, steering, knuckles, springs, shocks, etc.) I wanted to get it done my Q1 next year but depends on how things go it might be longer.

I would do what you are doing , like I did. Get it somewhat where you want it and then sorce all the parts over time.
If I’m also doing a carb swap I’m not sure how the ECM and all that would fit it, my spider injectors are fouling up and I’ve got an intake just need a carb. But I agree
 
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Stephen ellis

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My first lift was a Supreme Suspension 3 inch lift which had coil spacers in the front and blocks in the back. I couldn't get the camber right and the passenger side completely collapsed and the driver side collapsed a little about 6 months after putting them in so I ordered the Rough Country 4 inch spindles. Installed them 2 days ago and the wheel weights were hitting the spindles and the wheels were rubbing too a little so I pulled off the wheel weights and bought 5/16 wheel spacers which fixed that problem (thanks dcp1992 and 95c1500 for the help). Somethings hitting in the right front though, not sure what yet. Probably going to get spacer for the rear. Falken Wildpeak AT 32x11.50r15 tires. I used the pro comp brake lines as well

UPDATE: turns out the tires were hitting the plastic piece that attaches to the fender and sits against the bumper (not sure the exact name for it)

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when I put on the lift im gonna replace my ball joints how tf did you get the rivets out of the uppers
 

dcp1992

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ok I just don't wanna drill the hole to big and the new ones not bolt in right

The key is to under drill them (not all the way through also) and the punch pushes then out.

Also just like 95C1500 said, you might not have to drill them. Just depends on how rusted they are.
 

Stephen ellis

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Grind the head off and take a punch and hammer it out. I didn't need to drill them out.

sweet mines a 1995 ext cab ill post pics in a bit sitting right now its a 3in body lift running 32.1150s on 15X10 rock crawler after Christmas ill be putting on the 4in rough country kit and hopfully run 35s with a lil triming
 

Stephen ellis

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Here she is
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