Please help with wiring off road lights

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98_k1500

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This is how yours will be set up, the only difference in this and yours is that your switch will draw power between the relay and the fuse instead of the park light circuit so yours can be operated totally independent of the park lights. I'd be glad to explain anything you have questions about.
 

98_k1500

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BTW, with this setup, you should be able to pull 4-6 fog lights before you need to add another relay to handle the load. Just in case you end up wanting to add more in the future, the power will be there.
 

bluex

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BTW, with this setup, you should be able to pull 4-6 fog lights before you need to add another relay to handle the load. Just in case you end up wanting to add more in the future, the power will be there.

If he wants to run more than two lights off that the wire sizes need to be upgraded imo.
 

gmfan454

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98_K1500, You are the man. Thank you for taking the time to write all that up. Sincerely appreciate it. I guess my confusion is that instructions say everything is included. I attached an updated pic to show all the parts better. I wouldnt think I would need to buy any parts but I guess I do. The original circled part I was questioning, shows an ACC or IGNIT fuse with some sort of adapter on it. That part appears to not be included as the instructions say. What do you think?
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98_k1500

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If he wants to run more than two lights off that the wire sizes need to be upgraded imo.

Agreed, that pic came off the web, its just for reference.

No problem to the OP, I enjoy sharing my knowledge to help someone else out.
 
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thz71

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That was a really go explanation i always run larger wire than needed wire is cheap and it doesnt hurt anything
 

98_k1500

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Ok. First off, those little blue wire tap things on the left need thrown away. They don't make good connection and will cause you 10x more headache than they are worth. One of those inline fuse holders will work perfectly for what you are going to do with them. Like i said above, you will need 1 ring terminal that fits the stud on the back of the alternator. You will also need a fairly large (12ga. or so) butt connector, 4 more of the female spade connectors like are in the pic (the relay will have pins on it exactly like the back of your switch), and a relay. They sell fog light relays at most parts stores (horn relay is the same thing). That fuse tap thing is a good way to set something on fire. If it is in the fused side of the circuit, your lights are going to be overloading the IGN fuse, causing it to blow and the truck not to run. If it is on the unfused side of the circuit, the fuse will not be protecting the fog light circuit, and if anything gets shorted out, it WILL burn up all the wires and set the truck on fire. They are trying to get you to wire it where they turn off with the key being off, but that's not what you want, and that is a pitiful excuse for the correct way to do that anyway. The way i have described above adds a new circuit to your truck, not overloads an existing one. Does everyone understand what the relay is doing or does that need to be added?
 

gmfan454

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98_K1500, If you dont mind explaining what the relay is doing, I wouldnt mind learning more.
 

thz71

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98_K1500, If you dont mind explaining what the relay is doing, I wouldnt mind learning more.

A relay takes the load away from the control device so you dont have to run all that current through your switch or push button etc. And burning it up. So you wire power to one side of the relay and your load to the other side then you run power to your switch then the other side of your switch goes to your relay and it activates the relay this switches a contactor in the relay from open to close and closes the load circut
 

98_k1500

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As stated above, the relay works as a large switch. You would'n need one if you ran a large fog light switch, but nobody wants a battery disconnect mounted to their dash to turn their lights on. You want a small switch that is easy to mount, and easy to flip. When terminal 85 is grounded and 86 has power, It creates an electromagnet inside the relay. This only requires about .3 of an amp of power. Your small switch can easily handle this load. The magnetic field inside the relay pulls against a spring inside the relay, and flips a much larger switch that connects terminal 87 and 30. Most relays can handle around 40 amps of load without a complaint. So basically, you are using a small switch to turn on a bigger switch, which turns on your lights. The beauty of this is that the power to your switch can come from another circuit on your truck (ignition switch, ect...). This will not overload the existing circuit on your truck to turn the relay on. Your relay will then connect your lights to your battery without adding any more load to the ignition circuit (or whatever else you are using to trigger the relay). This also works well on reverse lights, use your small reverse light wire to trigger the relay, run a large power wire (12 ga. or so) to the rear of your truck for power, ground the relay, and wire up some rear lights. This will not burn up your reverse light wires, and the lights will only come on when the truck is in reverse. You could also wire an aux trigger wire on the relay with a switch that is hot all the time. With this setup, they would come on anytime the switch is on, or if the switch is off, they will only come on when the truck is in reverse. Everything clear or do i need more details somewhere?
 
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