Performance Suspension Bits

[Gavin]

No, you don't have to. It would ooze out and waste the excess when the boots get compressed. They have a small amount of grease in them to survive install, or at least the Moogs I bought do

 

[Gambles]

I always put a pump in and wiggle joint around then go until it seeps after it's installed with nut tight.

 

[jjupiter100]

Got everything put back together. Paid 2 different people on 2 different days from craigslist to put springs in. Both had mechanic backgrounds. I was sick of messing with them.
Put tires back on tonight and drove around the block.
I might need to bleed brakes again because sinks to the floor.
Will still need to take it an alignment shop. This weekend hopefully, but not sure because of my son's bday party and other son's soccer game.
Having wrapped this project up, it wasn't as difficult as I may have thought. I mean, i did have to uninstall/reinstall the stabilizer bar about 5 times, but who's counting?!?
The LCA's were a pia because they're heavy and awkward to put in, but overall there weren't that many things to take out and replace.

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[Mikey48]

Got everything put back together. Paid 2 different people on 2 different days from craigslist to put springs in. Both had mechanic backgrounds. I was sick of messing with them.
Put tires back on tonight and drove around the block.
I might need to bleed brakes again because sinks to the floor.
Will still need to take it an alignment shop. This weekend hopefully, but not sure because of my son's bday party and other son's soccer game.
Having wrapped this project up, it wasn't as difficult as I may have thought. I mean, i did have to uninstall/reinstall the stabilizer bar about 5 times, but who's counting?!?
The LCA's were a pia because they're heavy and awkward to put in, but overall there weren't that many things to take out and replace.

You must be registered for see images attach

I am doing the same thing on my 88 chev. When I torque the control arm nuts to the required 96 foot pounds it is very hard to move the control arms up and down. They are not to bad at 50 foot pounds. Thinking I might need to retorque after the have been used for awhile. Did you have this same situation?

 

[jjupiter100]

Yes, I first torqued them to spec but then had a hard time moving them around to replace spindle & everything, so I waited to torque until after that was all put back together.
Good luck on your reinstall.

 

[TAF2003]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm doing the exact same thing on my 1996 Yukon and ran into the same problem with the forks getting caught in the spring after installation. I was about to post nearly the same pictures until I found this thread. I have the same progressive/variable rate springs to install.

jjupiter100 do you recall how the mechanics managed to install the springs?

 

[TAF2003]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm doing the exact same thing on my 1996 Yukon and ran into the same problem with the forks getting caught in the spring after installation. I was about to post nearly the same pictures until I found this thread. I have the same progressive/variable rate springs to install.

jjupiter100 do you recall how the mechanics managed to install the springs?

Anyone have success installing springs like this?

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[TAF2003]

For what it's worth, i was able to get the variable rate springs installed.

I used a ratchet strap that connected the third coil from the bottom to the opposite side of the frame and a floor jack under the LCA. I kept the strap under a lot of tension as I raised the LCA until the spring made an initial pop into the LCA. The end of the coil got caught in the shock hole. Used the scissor jack to hold the edge of the coil spring end in position while slowly lowered the LCA until the strap pulled the spring over a little bit. Then raised the LCA so the strap could pull the sping over the rest of the way.