New $20 Stereo, $200 effort. Who needs an ashtray anyways?

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30013Z3R0

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So first some back story. I bought this 68K mile 88 C1500 longbed last year and she has NEVER had anything really done to it other than maintenance. I'm planning on cleaning it up, fixing cab corners (it's an 88, I'm amazed they aren't worse) and making a clean ride out of it. Something that everything looks stock-ish. This is where my dilemma starts. Usually I just go buy a dash kit and toss a decent deck in and call it good. As we all know on these trucks (88-94) the dash kit pushes the face of the deck out like an underbite on an english bulldog and doesn't look stock, not to mention the deck itself even if it was more flush would still look way out of place in a stock-ish interior.
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I've been plotting and planning. I've went through everything from building a "carputer" with a small touch screen in the factory radio location to moving the a/c controls down (deleting the blank switch panel below) and putting a tablet in the dash and the associated electronics to divide and amp the output.


While taking through various ideas I was reminded of an old custom audio installer trick of mounting the body of a cd player in one spot and running a ribbon cable from it to the face plate mounted elsewhere. This still leaves the problem of having the deck in an easily accessible location (I've got some bad badness in my bad lower back so it's gotta be driver seat accessible without becoming a contortionist. At this point I'm thinking a console on the hump or hanging from the ceiling. But we go back to it looking out of place. As well as a floor console would have to be stubby so there is room for my lovely short legged wife to slide the seat up in the event she needs to drive the truck.

Enter the XO Vision XD107 Digital Media Reciever priced at a WHOPPING $20. I'll let you look up specs but the basics are it plays USB, SD cards, Aux and has a radio and Bluetooth. It is decidedly shorter than a standard CD player as it does not have a CD drive in it. I don't know for certain but I believe it is short enough to sit in the center dash without having to have the bulge that the aftermarket panel uses to clear the ductwork. The face panel from volume knob to the back is 1" then a ribbon cable connects it to the back panel that has various wiring.
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Okay so now we have something that can go from being only 4" deep (back of face trim ring to back of the unit). Now we, we?, I have more options on where it can go. So if I don't want to see it's new definitively not 1988 face all the time but I need to be able to reach it easily I'm kinda left with only one option I feel is valid.
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Now I'm sure some have just did this.
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Cutting out a notch for a DIN and mounted a stereo down there and ditched the tray and door but remember I want to have the clean factory it's not there option of closing the door. Easy peazy right? Nope. The factory in all it's wisdom decided that even though the door itself is wide enough (1/16th clearance on each side) they would do some oddball stuff where the hinge itself is super narrow in comparison.
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That ain't gonna fit der... derp. At least not like that... Remember mention of the ribbon cable?

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Yeah that ribbon cable. So the face is 1" knob to backside. The plan of action now is to mount just the face in the ashtray location. Run the ribbon cable(that I might have to buy a new longer version of) back to the under dash mounted back panel of the stereo. But there is a problem or 4 that I know of so far.

1: The available space between the top plate of the hinge/mount and the top of the ashtray pocket (minus ashtray of course) is a little of nothing. So the face will have to be recessed into the ashtray pocket about this much.
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2: Those hinges.
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They will need a notch cut so that when the face pivots inward (towards the firewall) the sides don't get in the way. This is the rough idea of said cut. I will cut way too small and trim it to spec as I go.
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3: My knob is protruding proudly above the surface. When the door is closed it appears it will be against the inside top of the hinge assembly so another hole will be needed...
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4: After all these cuts this thing might be pretty flimsy. It attaches with 4 screws and I believe the locations of said attachment points will add a lot of rigidity but I like Mad Max so I've braced it before cutting it. Pardon the self tapping screws, they will be switched for rivets as soon as I find my riveting tool...
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Yes, yes I probably should have went ahead and pulled the lighter port out before bracing up the back and closing off the access to it but I'm stupid like that sometimes.

The work will continue another day and as long as I don't forget I'll update with more pictures. The goal is to have the face facing-ish my face when the door is open. So it will be angled up slightly vs laying perpidicular on the ashtray door which would put it pointing at the seat. Feel free to leave suggestions if you think I've lost my everloving mind or if you like where I'm going or if you have advice.
 

sewlow

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Don't have the early body style, but I've seen some pretty horrendous & some very slick mods to those dashes to accommodate aftermarket sound systems in those dashes.
This looks slick so far!

"Everyone you'll ever meet knows something you don't."!

"I've got some bad badness in my bad lower back." I know exactly what you mean. I couldn't drive my truck for about 6 weeks a short while ago. Sciatica due to a 'trauma-induced-degenerative-spinal-disorder.'!
"...as long as I don't forget." #OldFartProbs! Lol!
 

30013Z3R0

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Don't have the early body style, but I've seen some pretty horrendous & some very slick mods to those dashes to accommodate aftermarket sound systems in those dashes.
This looks slick so far!

"Everyone you'll ever meet knows something you don't."!

"I've got some bad badness in my bad lower back." I know exactly what you mean. I couldn't drive my truck for about 6 weeks a short while ago. Sciatica due to a 'trauma-induced-degenerative-spinal-disorder.'!
"...as long as I don't forget." #OldFartProbs! Lol!

Thanks!!! I'm 34, I've been dealing with DDD since 2006 that I know of so at least 10 years. I wasn't able to drive for about a year because of the Sciatic pain so I completely (unfortunately) feel you on that. Off topic of the stereo write up but I think when the time comes to ditch the bench I love so much I'm going to spring for a legit suspension seat like they use in offroad and the like.
 

someotherguy

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I would have been tempted to be lazy and do the aux-input mod to the factory deck, and hook a bluetooth receiver to that. All of that could be 100% hidden inside the dash and you'd never see it or have to touch it. Then just play the jams from your phone, over bluetooth.

Your plan is pretty slick though, will be interesting to see how it turns out.

Richard
 

30013Z3R0

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I would have been tempted to be lazy and do the aux-input mod to the factory deck, and hook a bluetooth receiver to that. All of that could be 100% hidden inside the dash and you'd never see it or have to touch it. Then just play the jams from your phone, over bluetooth.

Your plan is pretty slick though, will be interesting to see how it turns out.

Richard
Thanks, I thought about that too but my stock deck is shot.
 

firebane

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My only issue these little units is the fact that most of them have very limited audio functionality. For example I prefer my speakers to be hooked up to amplifiers and these units can't do this.

I would rather mount my head unit behind the seat of the truck and then use a aux control with a inline amplifer/volume control.
 

30013Z3R0

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My only issue these little units is the fact that most of them have very limited audio functionality. For example I prefer my speakers to be hooked up to amplifiers and these units can't do this.

I would rather mount my head unit behind the seat of the truck and then use a aux control with a inline amplifer/volume control.

What's about this keeps me from running it to the high pass of an amp?
 

df2x4

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What's about this keeps me from running it to the high pass of an amp?

Provided you're actually talking about speaker-level inputs... (High-pass is a filter that allows you to tune out frequencies below a certain point, not an input) The main issue is that most amps just don't have them anymore. You can still run your speaker lines to an aftermarket integration device that will create RCA pre-outs for you, but that's more equipment to hide and more $$$.

EDIT - Just looked up some basic info on that XD107. It actually has ONE set of RCA pre-outs, just one. And I have no idea how that is supposed to work, at all. I'm guessing it's just a master left and right channel output? If that's the case you're still going to need some type of additional processor to create front, rear, and subwoofer pre-outs to have any kind of functionality similar to most other single-DIN units. Weird bird, that XD107. Not something I would ever spend money or time on personally but to each their own.
 
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30013Z3R0

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Provided you're actually talking about speaker-level inputs... (High-pass is a filter that allows you to tune out frequencies below a certain point, not an input) The main issue is that most amps just don't have them anymore. You can still run your speaker lines to an aftermarket integration device that will create RCA pre-outs for you, but that's more equipment to hide and more $$$.

EDIT - Just looked up some basic info on that XD107. It actually has ONE set of RCA pre-outs, just one. And I have no idea how that is supposed to work, at all. I'm guessing it's just a master left and right channel output? If that's the case you're still going to need some type of additional processor to create front, rear, and subwoofer pre-outs to have any kind of functionality similar to most other single-DIN units. Weird bird, that XD107. Not something I would ever spend money or time on personally but to each their own.[/QUOTE

I didn't think that sounded right in my head, the part about the high pass lol. Yeah it only has the one set of rca's out. There are various options to make it work. I've thought about using these to tap into the harness. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575RFI...48065&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=47439290185&awdv=c
Would be the second simplest way short of using the high-level(had to look up the right term lol) inputs on an amp.
 

30013Z3R0

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Progress report as follows.

Rivets!
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Marked out for the actual cutting of the tray.
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Had to make sure to leave room below the cut for the inside part of the handle to clear. (Painted white for your viewing pleasure)


Notched the tray for the face to recess into. I can still trim another 1/8" off if need be. Started the notch in the hing plates. I decided to also trim a bit off of the back side of the face trim ring so the face plate could sit deeper in the tray. The black-er line at the top is about where I think at this point the top of the slot in the hinge plate will be.
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It fits!
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Side to side clearance isn't much but it will clear to close. I'll have to trim the dash near the top of the opening but the door will cover it when closed.
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Not the best shot of it but we'll call it a teaser. Using tape to quickly line it back up, hence the marks on the tape in the previous shots. It's just sitting on there, nothing mounted yet.
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Once all of the make the face fit fabrication is done I'll start on the back panel with the outputs. As it sits now I'm going to look at just mounting it off the back of the hinge plate but I haven't looked at clearance/accessibility yet. Once all that is done I will tackle making it look good in it's new home. The plan is to box in the tray so it looks like a molded piece, hiding the hinges in the process. Then it's on to relocating the lighter plug (ditching the lighter) and possibly putting in a couple dedicated USB charging ports somewhere. Oh and of course ditching the stock radio and cassette and putting some pockets in the dash.
 
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