NBS brake swap on 2WD GMT400 almost complete

[Blazer_maniac]

Well, the time has arrived, Us 2wd Guys can have the same brake upgrade as the 4wd guys, anyone intersted I'll Post some pics and parts list once completed

 

[Cokeman95]

Well, the time has arrived, Us 2wd Guys can have the same brake upgrade as the 4wd guys, anyone intersted I'll Post some pics and parts list once completed

We always love pictures!

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[Blazer_maniac]

We always love pictures!

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I'll post some pics later, as everyone knows, on the two wheel drive GMT400's they have a rotor with a packable bearing. The problem in doing the gmt800 and 900 swap is the lower control arms and balljoints. The lower control arm ball joint specifically is not oriented correctly to allow attachment to the later style knuckles. First off, let me give you some of my background, I work in a Chevy dealers' parts department, so I have access to info the ordinary joe doesn't have readily available. I recently purchased a 96 rcsb 2wd truck that was worn out, motor and tranny blown. So I started tearing it apart for a 6.2L swap. I found several things wrong with the truck that warranted removing the body from the frame. Once I had the frame out from the body I got to looking at everything and determined that one way or another I was putting NBS brakes on this thing. I started looking at suspension setups from everything 88 up, corvettes g-vans, 2500 suburbans, everything. Here's what I have come up with:

Upper control arms # L 25793550 fitment: 00-02 c2500 truck & sub
R 25793553 04-16 g2500

Lower ball joints # 19210782 03-16 g2500-3500

knuckle # L 22912208 07-13 NNBS
R 22912209

There are more parts to list, however these are the main parts to get it to work. You can use your existing upper control arms, however the ones listed should work and look better, you will still have to ream the knuckles on only the upper portion. Now the fun part, remove the lower arms and press out the ball joints. The new ball joints don't press right in, the lower arms need to be "sleeved" down to accept the new ball joints. I measured and found a suitable pipe that had a slightly larger outside diameter than the ball joints existing hole, but had a smaller id than the new ball joint. I turned down a small portion of the pipe on a lathe that would fit snug in the hole then determined the height i needed, and cut the pipe and installed and welded in the sleeve from the bottom of the arm. I then pressed in the lower ball joint, with the stud facing downwards. Some trimming of the front of the arm is necessary to allow clearance between the arm and knuckle. Original spring and shock can be used. I'll post some pics and more info later.

 

[Blazer_maniac]

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Lower control arms

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[Blazer_maniac]

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I ran into a small but non consequential issue, the upper arms are going to need to be for the vehicle not a alternate application, the ones I thought would work are just a hair short

 

[Chris Rogers]

now you have my interest.
the later knuckles (14-16) are aluminum I'm told - same fit process?

 

[dave_erald]

Awesome, somebody is trying something new. Giver hell man!

 

[Chris Rogers]

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I ran into a small but non consequential issue, the upper arms are going to need to be for the vehicle not a alternate application, the ones I thought would work are just a hair short

so you are saying the 00-02 arms for the 3500 are not correct for this application and to use the ones that came with the truck?

 

[Blazer_maniac]

Yes use original uppers, the ones I thought would work turned out to be too short. The knuckles will still need to be reamed out for the top joint

 

[Blazer_maniac]

now you have my interest.
the later knuckles (14-16) are aluminum I'm told - same fit process?

14-16 may be aluminum, the 07-13 is cast iron, I'll run some numbers tomorrow and look at some trucks on the lot to double check.