My first foray into front suspension.

[Liroku]

My front tires are having cupping problems(I suspect wheel bearings), but I know the ball joints etc are also pretty aged/worn. I decided to go balls deep in this and make it a learning experience. Most of it seems pretty straight forward and ordered quite a few parts to get started.

Parts I currently have ready:
Upper Ball Joints
Lower Ball Joints
Pitman Arm
Idler Arm
Idler Bracket Assembly
Adjusting Sleeves
Sway Bar End Links
Inner/Outer Tie Rods
Stabilizer Bar Bushings
Front Wheel Bearings and Races
Steering Linkage to replace rag joint(don't want to do XJ mod or use universal)

So, some questions.

Is there anything I'm missing that I should replace while I'm doing all of this?

What exactly are the knockouts I've read about in the control arms? Do I have them and are they required to be removed when I get it adjusted or is it just for extra adjustment needed for lift kits?

Am I in for any surprises that I should be prepared for?

How difficult is replacing the wheel bearings on these trucks?

Any other suggestions you can think of are very welcomed.

 

[sewlow]

2whl. or 4X?
The knockouts should be done no matter what. Only way to get a proper alignment done.
I can see the 400's around here that have never been to a shop to get them done. Wheels out at the top, tucked under at the bottom, riding almost on the outer edges of the tires

Upper control arm frame mounts.
Before & after.

You must be registered for see images attach

There's a specific tool to knock them out.

http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/parts-puller-installer?filterByKeyWord=control arm

Before you remove the tie rods, get a measurement center to center.
For both. They may not be the same.
Try not to mess with the length while removing.
Then, you can set up the news ones to the same lengths on the install. It won't be correct as far as alignment goes, but it'll be close. Good enough so you can drive it to the A/shop. Not too far, though. I wouldn't recommend highway speeds!
If you can afford it, I'd say that this would be a good time to install a new steering box.
If you're 2whl, I can't say enough good about how the quick ratio improved the way the truck drives.
AGR, Redhead or a local rebuilder of S/boxes.
Not recommended for a 4X, though.
Got deeper pockets? Lol!
AGR makes a Q/R box with a matching power steering pump with modified valving which helps even more.
An AGR performance steering box with matching pump cut about a full turn from lock-to-lock. The feel of the wheel is much better. It's firmer without being tiring. The communication of the road to the wheel is sooo much better.

Then from there, there's poly bushings, improved shocks, sway bars...Lol!
That's down the road though.
The truck will drive way better with what you're doing, now.

 

[sewlow]

Wore out my magazine copy of this. Think I could quote 90% off the top of my head! Lol!

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/ch...t-1994-custom-chevy-truck-performance-shocks/

 

[Liroku]

If you can afford it, I'd say that this would be a good time to install a new steering box.
If you're 2whl, I can't enough good about how the quick ratio improved the way the truck drives.

It's definitely 2wd. Currently there is about 5"s of play in my steering wheel before the wheels are even nudged. It looks like 99% of that is because of the rag joint. So ANY kind of improvement in steering is going to feel massive right now I think haha. I have been considering doing the gearbox, I'll already have the steering linkage off and pitman arm out of the way so it'd probably be the easiest time to do so.

On the knockout, is it really that hard to get out? Could I not just punch it out with something?

 

[sewlow]

I don't know about trying to just punch it out.
The tool takes just a couple of minutes to do it.
Both my trucks have been done, but I didn't do it. I watched.
I rebuilt the front like you're doing (+spindles & springs, poly bushings.) & just put it all together without doing the knockouts.
What took me more than a few hours to put together, the alignment guy had apart in about 10-15 min.s per side! And, had the knockouts done, too! Did the job right on the rack.