My 6.0 in a 1999 swap thread

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DRAGGIN95

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My 6.0 was 1800, but it only has 31,000 miles on it, it also included everything, all acc., wiring, computer, etc.
 

CodyB

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Do the PRNDL lights work in your dash, and if so how'd you wire it up?
 

CodyB

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Ours has been a Pain in the Ass the whole time, nothing has gone very well on it. Tomorrow will be a week down so far.
 

Mike

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Is the reason you say it is alot more trouble for you to use the NBS cluster is because you are using the stand alone harness. If I pulled the the motor, tranny, harness, computer, and all other little things do you think it would be easier for me to do the NBS cluster swap. Another thing I was thinking about The exhause setup I have past my headers is not mandrel bent. I have a STS kit for the LQ4 I plan on using Do you think I should consider redoing my piping or not. Also, Im looking to get the combo with motor, tranny, harness, and comp for around 1600, is this asking to little you think? What is a good price range i see just motors going for 2000 with like 100K+ on them.
The reason the NBS dash swap is harder is that instead of splicing 2 wires you will have to diagnose and splice 100 wires. Have fun with that.

Firstly I say don't use the STS use a front mount. Secondly you will need a good exhaust with any setup that is boosted.

You can not get all those things for 1600. If you have a turbo you are going to need the same transmission and converter as me at least. That alone is close to 5 grand.

Do the PRNDL lights work in your dash, and if so how'd you wire it up?
They do not, they would work if I didn't remove them but too late.

Ours has been a Pain in the Ass the whole time, nothing has gone very well on it. Tomorrow will be a week down so far.

I'm sorry man, any new progress?
 

CodyB

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My job has been on fabbing a Shoenfeld (sp) header into something that works w/o much suspension lift... We moved the motor back an additional 2" to direct bolt to the trans with a flywheel adapter... The wiring has plagued us since we were trying to use the NBS fusebox, but I think theyre going back to the OBS fusebox, since all we need are the engine fuses due to the way the head/tails/brakes are wired.. I think theyre trying to use the NBS computer to control the ABS module. No clue if thatll work or not yet.

Edit: Oops, typing while tired makes for mistakes....
 
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Mike

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purcell747 said:
hi, ive been looking at your swap thread up did - awesome. full of info. i have a few questions though. the power steering pump - how did you hook yours up? mine currently only has 2(feed and return) and my 6.0 has 3(2 on the back and 1 on the side)? did plugging the oil cooler lines hurt anything? whats the part number for the vacuum adapter you used from gm for the rear of the intake?(i tried the parts department and they looked at me like i had a 3rd eyeball) thanks
Hey, definitely post up a thread on it if you havent already!

That second input on the power steering is for the drip return for a hydroboost system. I just clamped a rubber vacuum line cap on it and it has been fine.

The plug for the cooler lines is a factory part as most of the LS cars don't use them. They included them on the trucks as many people would tow heavy weight with a 6.0 2500.

The brake booster adapter is 12559760 check out this PDF where I got that information http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/Lisa Tahoe.pdf

Hope this helps!
Mike
 

Kawikid

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If you could redo your wiring would you take out the OBS engine harness all together? My truck is 2wd and I can't think of any real reason in leaving my old harness in except for the few wires going to the gauges. Do you agree with this? If anybody else wants to chime in please do
 

CodyB

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We stripped out the engine part of our harness and like you said left the wiring to the gauges, trans, and lights. But we used the gmt400 fuse box since all the lights were handled inside the cab already...
 
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