my 1998 silverado SAS in progress.

[90chevstepside]

And thanks 90chevy. Gonna install wheel bearings, races and seals tonight and prolly just finish up the front end for tomorrow. Then tomorrow drilling out the shackle bolt hole. which i shoulda done before welding the shackle mount on hahaha. But oh well right.

I saw that pic and wondered if you'd already drilled them out. Looks like it might be a pita to do unless you've got a long bit or really good measuring skills lol

 

[Solid94]

Oh okay. I have always contemplated doing the disc brake swap. And I need my parking brake at my cabin because of the hill. Maybe I'll do more research

 

[JonZ71]

my step dad loves them ndians68, We went through some nasty **** friday and it was funny watching him go in everything 2wd while i would put it in 4lo and bottom out hahaha. Solid 94, trust me, if your gonna need a ebrake use drums, don't **** with the eldorado caliper.

90chevy, we should just have enough bit to cut through the frame, which ill be doing this morning. The front axle is completely assembled other then the lock in hubs, gonna throw it under the truck and retighten the wheel bearing's and nuts. Still gotta clean the diff cover and what not tough haha

 

[Solid94]

Okay cool. I was just trying to weigh out the pros and cons of 4 wheel disc brakes. Hope to see some more pics today after your done wrenching on it

 

[MOBS]

Here's an fyi about rear disc conversions. If your master cylinder has the metering valve in the output port for rear brakes, you MUST remove it before continuing disc brakes on rear. Some ppl may not notice the negative effects of leaving it in, but it's made to slow the immediate pressure to rear brakes when braking because drum brakes require less pressure to activate than discs. Normally this keeps the rears from locking or overheating during braking, but when discs are thrown on the back it will cause your rears to delay in braking, and in city driving, you most likely won't have rear brakes atall unless you're sitting holding your brakes for atleast a few seconds. If the OP already knew this, then I guess I'm just posting for those that didn't.

 

[90chevstepside]

I didn't know that so thanks for posting!

 

[MOBS]

Yep, when you remove your brake line for the rear, there will be a little cone-shaped piece that the flared line seals against. Remove that and there will be a little rubber piece behind it with a spring....remove the rubber and spring, and then place the cone-shaped piece back in and push your brake line in against the cone-shaped piece and screw your line nut back into place.

 

[JonZ71]

mobs, no offense but that makes no sense since people talk about needing to add a proportional valve to adjust the pressure down, because drums needs more pressure then calipers to work.... Btw, the truck is sitting on all fours.

Here are some teasers

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Looks like my stock DS will work this is with the driveshaft completely compressed with the slip yoke

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tadaaa

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[JonZ71]

damn i show pics of it and people don't even comment damn, i guess i aint gonna show it on them nice rims.

 

[dirtyhick42]

Is your steering hooked up yet or is it just sitting?