88GMCtruck
I'm all 8-Luggy!
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I recently picked up a set of 2015 style K2XX mirrors for my 98 Dually. The fine folks at eBay (aka china) have made aftermarket replacements for GMT400, GMT800 and GMT900 trucks. My truck's primary purpose is to haul an 11.5' slide in camper and a 14' enclosed trailer, so towing mirrors are a must. I currently have a set of the GMT800 style mirrors on my truck, however wanted the upgrade for the larger glass area, in glass signal and the side backup lights.
*Disclaimers*
- These are aftermarket mirrors. They are very similar to OEM mirrors, typically the largest difference being the power mirror head attachments are usually different.
- The plastic clips that hold the mirror glass to the motor are fragile. Be careful while trying to release them.
- The mirrors are glass. Don't break them by twisting/pulling too hard.
- I'm not going into any custom wiring information since everyone does it differently.
- And finally, i'm not responsible for any damage you do. This is a guide.
-----------------------------
So, grab your mirror. I suggest laying a nice towel down to avoid scratching.
Now, you will need to push the glass in all the way in the top outer corner, and the convex all the in at the top.
Hard to see, but there are 4 clips on the mirror motor head, 2 in each corner. I used a combination of my fingers and a long thin screwdriver to carefully release them.
Once you get two sides (4 clips) they should come free with a bit of wiggling. If you have the fully loaded mirrors you will have 3 plugs to unplug, 1 for signal and 2 for heat.
Here is a closeup of the clips, and the mirror head.
Now, push the convex mirror all the way in at the bottom, and do the same. It's a smaller head, with smaller clips, and much less room.
Backside of the convex
Now you have the mirrors removed. There are 4 screws in the corners you remove, then lift off the plastic trim
Here is the front trim and backup light removed. There is a plug on the back of the backup light.
Here you see their wonderful wiring job.......
Now, to remove the mirrors caps. You can see on both the upper and lower they are just held to the mirror in 4 places in a sort of "clip" arrangement. There was no adhesive on my mirror caps.
Now, as far as I can tell the fully loaded mirrors are always chrome. My truck is pretty much blacked out so I am going to paint them. Sanded, primed and painted.
If you want to remove the wiring, you'll need to remove the bases and arms as well. First is to snap the mirror post cover off, I found it easiest from the back side, use a screwdriver to unclip it.
Then remove the 4 bolts holding the post in place
At this point you'll have to remove the mirror arms. At the end of the bottom shaft, there is a clip. The mirrors need to be about 1/2 way pulled out to remove it.
Once it is gone, you can pull the arms free and remove the plastic trim and pull the wiring out.
Beyond that, re-install is reverse of removal. You can re-assemble the mirrors without the caps and install the caps later, since paint takes time to dry.
I will mention, the aftermarket wiring of these particular mirrors has the forward amber clearance light and in glass signal wired together, which isn't the same as GM did from the factory. The amber signal was a clearance light separate from the signal. I spent the time to re-wire them to separate the lights out, so now mine are glass signal and the amber is a clearance light and signal. I used diodes internally, since everyone wires their stuff differently I'm not going to go into it at this point.
I will update the thread with more pictures once I have the caps on, and once they are on the truck.
You must be registered for see images attach
*Disclaimers*
- These are aftermarket mirrors. They are very similar to OEM mirrors, typically the largest difference being the power mirror head attachments are usually different.
- The plastic clips that hold the mirror glass to the motor are fragile. Be careful while trying to release them.
- The mirrors are glass. Don't break them by twisting/pulling too hard.
- I'm not going into any custom wiring information since everyone does it differently.
- And finally, i'm not responsible for any damage you do. This is a guide.
-----------------------------
So, grab your mirror. I suggest laying a nice towel down to avoid scratching.
You must be registered for see images attach
Now, you will need to push the glass in all the way in the top outer corner, and the convex all the in at the top.
You must be registered for see images attach
Hard to see, but there are 4 clips on the mirror motor head, 2 in each corner. I used a combination of my fingers and a long thin screwdriver to carefully release them.
You must be registered for see images attach
Once you get two sides (4 clips) they should come free with a bit of wiggling. If you have the fully loaded mirrors you will have 3 plugs to unplug, 1 for signal and 2 for heat.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here is a closeup of the clips, and the mirror head.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Now, push the convex mirror all the way in at the bottom, and do the same. It's a smaller head, with smaller clips, and much less room.
You must be registered for see images attach
Backside of the convex
You must be registered for see images attach
Now you have the mirrors removed. There are 4 screws in the corners you remove, then lift off the plastic trim
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Here is the front trim and backup light removed. There is a plug on the back of the backup light.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Here you see their wonderful wiring job.......
You must be registered for see images attach
Now, to remove the mirrors caps. You can see on both the upper and lower they are just held to the mirror in 4 places in a sort of "clip" arrangement. There was no adhesive on my mirror caps.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Now, as far as I can tell the fully loaded mirrors are always chrome. My truck is pretty much blacked out so I am going to paint them. Sanded, primed and painted.
You must be registered for see images attach
If you want to remove the wiring, you'll need to remove the bases and arms as well. First is to snap the mirror post cover off, I found it easiest from the back side, use a screwdriver to unclip it.
You must be registered for see images attach
Then remove the 4 bolts holding the post in place
You must be registered for see images attach
At this point you'll have to remove the mirror arms. At the end of the bottom shaft, there is a clip. The mirrors need to be about 1/2 way pulled out to remove it.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Once it is gone, you can pull the arms free and remove the plastic trim and pull the wiring out.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Beyond that, re-install is reverse of removal. You can re-assemble the mirrors without the caps and install the caps later, since paint takes time to dry.
I will mention, the aftermarket wiring of these particular mirrors has the forward amber clearance light and in glass signal wired together, which isn't the same as GM did from the factory. The amber signal was a clearance light separate from the signal. I spent the time to re-wire them to separate the lights out, so now mine are glass signal and the amber is a clearance light and signal. I used diodes internally, since everyone wires their stuff differently I'm not going to go into it at this point.
I will update the thread with more pictures once I have the caps on, and once they are on the truck.
