Interest in auto down/up power windows??

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gmachinz

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Yep-I build them as auto down, up or both. Obviously, auto up is always a possible concern, but when I'm cruising by myself it isn't an issue lol. Besides, it's nice to be able to set up a 70 Chevelle with auto up for example so that when you park, you can just get out, hit a keyfob to trigger your alarm and have the windows all go up automatically. I've built a lot of kits like that-Suburban's too....ones with a rear gate/glass can be wired for 5-window auto down/up....it can get crazy!!
 

gmachinz

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Well....if you've ever wanted to put all 4 power windows down in a 70 Monte you'd know the pain-in-the-assness of accessing that damn master window switch....and I'd rather not lay over my front bucket seats trying to reach the rear window cranks too lol.....but as for trucks....I'd still rather not lay across my damn bench seat to reach the other window to crank it either.
 

df2x4

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Well....if you've ever wanted to put all 4 power windows down in a 70 Monte you'd know the pain-in-the-assness of accessing that damn master window switch....and I'd rather not lay over my front bucket seats trying to reach the rear window cranks too lol.....but as for trucks....I'd still rather not lay across my damn bench seat to reach the other window to crank it either.

Welp... Looks like I need to find some switches for my '70 Monte now... :lol:
 

RichLo

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I would be interested in the auto up and down on both pass and drivers windows. Would that work for both switches or just the master switch that the driver has access too? or could the passenger have auto up/down control for their window too?
 

gmachinz

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Yes-the passenger would also have control of their window along with the driver.
 

deejaaa

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this guy is legit. he builds complete harnesses for out trucks. shovelbill has a kit and brought him over to this site. can you post your website?
i would be interested. this would be a really nice convenience feature. can't afford it right now, just started a new job and was off for 6 months.
how much would it be for a 93 crew cab? auto up/down.
 

gmachinz

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The cost as far as auto/express is:

$90 per window for auto down/up
$60 per window for auto down OR up

With this splice kit upgrade, the OEM switches are converted to a ground trigger and the motors are controlled by a pair of 40A TYCO relays rated at 250,000 switching cycles each.

After the relay upgrade to each window, it is then converted to auto down, up or both from the relays. This way, you get maximum voltage and less amperage draw to the motors (a good thing here!) and the solid state modules have an easy time controlling the trigger side of the relays.

So in the end you'll have very quick windows as well as auto options-and the window while in express mode can be stopped anytime during its travel by quickly tapping your window switch-just like new vehicles.

Pinching on auto up isn't a huge concern since the moment the module sensing infinite resistance (i.e. closed window) it cuts power off. For this reason, make sure your door glass has proper alignment and that the window mechanism/hardware is in good shape before adding this feature-any major bind may cause window to stop mid travel in express mode.

I'll have these ready to go after this weekend if anybody wants in now on some kits, let me know!
 

gmachinz

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Just to give everyone an idea here, this is a dual window auto down kit for a 70-81 Camaro/Firebird using an updated power window conversion kit from Classic for example. Obviosly this kit is designed to install in the center console where a factory power window switch would be-on the trucks, you'd have 2 relays per door and either 1 or 2 solid state modules also depending on whether you wanted auto down or up or both. Each "express/auto" feature requires 1 module.

To keep things simple, a splice kit would be the best route to avoid having to run more wiring/connectors through the existing door jamb boots. On the older body style (73-87 and 88-91) there is a convenient spot behind the arm rest base on the panel which provides enough "open space" to install everything on the door shell directly behind it. A similar method of mounting would be required here.

All wiring is j1128 rated (good to 275F) and all terminations are crimped AND dip soldered as well as heat shrinked where needed using dual wall polyolephin tubing (yep, the kind with the sealant inside) and I only use genuine Delphi terminals and connectors-no offshore crap.

Anyway, at least this gives you guys an idea as to the build quality of what I'll be putting together.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

shovelbill

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i'll be happy to testify to the quality of his work.......there's lots of pics on my "Spyder headlight" thread. i found him by happenstance while forum hopping, when i was researching for my headlight circuit upgrade. top quality, period.....and VERY cost effective for what i received.......i'll be doing more upgrades and he's agreed to build more harnesses for me, after i figure out how i want them to work.....yes, a custom harness.
 
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