How to Replace oil filter adapter gasket & o-ring

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JD4440

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I posted in that thread too. One guy said he plugged his w/ 3/8 plugs and another siad something had to be modified.
 

K15 Blazer

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I got tired of mine leaking too, so I deleted the lines, plugged the radiator cooler, and went with a shorty PH filter (to easily clear the driveshaft)

what was weird to me though, was that, the aluminum adapter for the PH filter did not come with a gasket of any kind.... are you supposed to silicone that adapter to the block?

summit racing said that "the fine raised bead acts as a gasket and crushes the aluminum against the iron block"........ but then when I asked for torque specs to do this they had no such information....

thoughts on that?
 

Albertcriss

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i have the adapter laying here to get rid of the whole piece but im not real sure what part number i need for the filter.anyone?
 

Cappy

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Ok so i finally got the adapter and cooler lines off (took me a little while since it was a 4wd plus i can never find the wrench i need) now just waiting for the replacements to get shipped to the dealer so i can start the install
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LSUfan71

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I got the two bolts on the bottom of the housing off and its still stuck to the block. I would prefer not to mess with the lines because they arent leaking. any help would be appreciated.

Same here. I removed the two bolts from the bottom of the adapter but it's not budging. The oil leak is so bad with so much gunk that I can barely tell if there were any more bolts. Tried cleaning more. So is it safe to gently pry it off? don't want to break anything.
 

dwysywd

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I actually used the older style adapter and added the larger external cooler. Overall it added 2 quarts to the oil system. I did a writeup on mine as well: http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthr...d-2-quarts!-(SAS-guys-you-ll-want-to-see-this)

Great write up, but this will ONLY work if you have a SAS. For us less fortunate (LOL) IFS owners, either eliminate it with oil filter adaptor Melling/Oil Filter Adapter
Part Number: MFA350 $25 autozone. And you will need new bolts.
 

Tweezak

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I just did this job on a 94 K1500 4wd with a 350. In my opinion it was not really an easy job. My oil cooler lines were 1" nuts mating to the adapter. I could not pull it down far enough to get the gasket out. I looked for a 1" flare nut wrench but couldn't find anything local. So, I bought a 1" box end wrench and used an angle grinder to cut a slot in it and then cut the handle to about 2-3". that worked a treat!
The other trick I used is one I learned from my stepdad. I tried at first to put the upper gasket on the bolts and guide the adapter into place. But, with the cooler lines needing to be inserted along the way and such it wasn't working out. So, I smeared some moly grease on one side of the gasket and stuck it to the block. Then assembly was a breeze.
Another thing I noticed was that after doing this job, my oil pressure doesn't drop at idle anymore. It stays right in the center of the operating range all the time. I wonder if that has anything to do with the fact that I soaked the adapter assembly in kerosene for about 24 hours. I also made sure the little springloaded valve was working smoothly.
Oh, I saw in this thread people asking about the torque specs. My bolts are the 5/16" variety so the spec is 13.5 ft-lbs. There are also 1/4" bolts. I don't recall what the spec is for those.
 
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