How to pull airbag light codes?

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Blue Turd

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Yesterday I got in my truck and started like usual, but the airbag light light did its little diagnosis like always, but this time it did not turn off. It does not flash, just a solid light indicating something is wrong in the system somewhere. All I have "done" to the truck was replace the battery about a week ago (which worked fine no airbag light until today).

How do you pull the airbag codes in theses trucks? In every other car I have owned there is usually somewhere you can jump wires and the light will blink slow/fast in giving you a number you can then look up online or in the service manual. I am not afraid of working on airbag systems, I understand the danger and precision involved when working on these systems. Unfortunately from my searching previous to this post I have yet to find a DIY to pull the airbag codes, every one says you need a GM factory scanner.

There is no way that is the only way to get the codes. If thats the case id rather throw parts at the thing then let the morons at my local Chevy dealership touch my truck (yet alone pay them real money lol).

Truck is a 95 K1500, with a drivers side airbag only.
 

Blue Turd

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So I did some more searching. I still do not believe that there is a way to jump some magic diagnosis pins (like you can on these trucks for CEL and ABS lights) to read the codes. Even if you do guess right and replace the part throwing the light, I believe you still need a scan tool to clear the light (supposedly removing power does not do it). So far I am looking for a ~300 scan tool that can pull the air bag codes on these trucks. Using this sort of an excuse to buy new tools lol, as I have been getting by with a bluetooth phone OBD2 scanner and jumping pins on stuff. A "real" OBD1/OBD2 scanner will be a good tool to have. Currently have a few in mind that I am looking at that supposedly pull these OBD1 GM airbag codes. If anybody has suggestions on a scanner that is known to work for this let me know!

If I find one that does work I will update this thread.
 

poncho62

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The eBay ad says it works on OBD1 aslo, but I know what you mean....my 97, being older may not scan the same as a newer truck
 

Blue Turd

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Okay so I did some research last night, and decided on a scanner to try out. I bought the Actron CP9690, which is just a cheaper rebranded Bosch 1300. This scanner has good reviews, and was noted by quite a few reviewers that it worked good with the weird GM "OBD1.5" protocols in the mid 90's GM products.

Amazon link: http://a.co/8y2XraO
 
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CrustyJunker

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Is your truck rusty at all? Not sure where you're at as far as weather goes... But a common problem on my old Tahoe was the airbag sensors. Either the mount would rust off the frame and leave the sensor dangling (scary), or the steel sensor case would split open from rust. Replaced them and the light would shut off upon next restart.
 

Blue Turd

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Is your truck rusty at all? Not sure where you're at as far as weather goes... But a common problem on my old Tahoe was the airbag sensors. Either the mount would rust off the frame and leave the sensor dangling (scary), or the steel sensor case would split open from rust. Replaced them and the light would shut off upon next restart.

Of course it's rusty! What kind of gmt400 is complete without rust! The sensors were my first guess, but I just wanted to verify that's the issue before replacing parts all willy nilly. I will inspect them more throughly today, as I don't get the tool till tomorrow. Hopefully it's something obvious like you mentioned. Mine are at least still attached to the truck, which is a good sign.
 

Blue Turd

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So I took off both sensors to take a look at the condition. The driver side sensor has a crack where the plug comes out and a few little holes around the edge of the casing, so my best guess is that moisture has gotten inside and killed it. The passenger side doesn't look too hot, but it does not show signs of cracks or holes in the potted part. They both ohm out to 8420 (I think, being an 8.42 on the 20k ohm setting on multimeter). Could have sworn I saw another post say that they should ohm out to around 1k, but that might have been a gmt800 (similar but slightly different system). Took some pics, let me know what you think.

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both sides (driver on left)

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passenger side, no obvious failures

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driver side, crack where wiring is coming out of and small holes in the pot at the bottom.

Cleaned and reapplied dielectric grease to connectors then reinstalled. Still got an airbag light going on. Hoping the scanner I ordered can pull these codes and help me out. If not I'll have to come up with another plan.
 
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