Help: Interior Lights Won't Shut Off...

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88C1500

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I know this is a little old but i just had this happen as well and found the reason. Its the little roller right beside your headlight switch (the one that controls your instrument light) if you turn it all the way up it will click then it turn on all or your lights in the cab. All you have to do is roll it down enough for it to click
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Sampuppy1

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I have the incessant dome. The floor lights operate like they should but the dome acts backward. Off when doors open. On when doors shut and key is in. Awhile back I installed a full length overhead console and cut the wires. Ran a new power from the passenger side floor light. Works fine now
 

Sampuppy1

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I also guess I'm lucky. I haven't had to touch those switches yet. 229k and still running the stock ones. *knocking on wood*
 

Knockoutpie

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Here is your mistake, did you ground it to the same cord that's right next to where you tapped the wire? On my 98 I have a switched ground, so if I ground it to the frame, will always be on. Will only work when I grounded it with the ground for the courtesy lighting, (white wire) switched.
 

navyboy65

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So I too am having an issue with the interior lights not turning off? (1994 K1500 Extended cab) Been going on and off for the last 3 months. I have had some LED's for some time in the interior lights. About 3 months or more ago I noticed the lights would not go out. I checked the 2 door switches and in doing so broke them so they were replaced and switched work fine just tested them! The dimmer switch turned out to be the culprit then but a few weeks ago it came back! Not the switches, not the dimmer and I pulled all the lights and tested for continuity and I am getting it on the white wire at the switch connectors. (done with bulbs removed except the ash try one - does that matter? and done with dimmer switch disconnected as well as the 2 door switches. I am leaning toward I am grounding out somewhere in the wiring and just wanted to get your guys take on it so that I am heading in the right direction!
Thanks!
 

Sampuppy1

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Since the switches all operate on the ground side I agree that you have a grounding issue somewhere. Likely in the wiring that runs under the sill plate.

Sent from my flagged XT1635-01

Tyler/T-Unit
 

navyboy65

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Since the switches all operate on the ground side I agree that you have a grounding issue somewhere. Likely in the wiring that runs under the sill plate.

Sent from my flagged XT1635-01

Tyler/T-Unit
I did check under the sill but it looks okay? I did buy a
SG Tool Aid 25300 Short Circuit Detector, but it works on positive power. Could be broken as the buzzer didn't sound? With every thing unhooked I put the tester on the powered side in the fuse box and put the tester now with + to the white wire in drivers door switch connector but it sparked and the buzzer didn't sound so that is as far as I went. My plan was to use this test to find the "short" buy running + power on the white wire which is normally a switched ground wire but is grounding out completing the light circuit causing my light on all the time issue! Can anyone recommend a way to find the short that doesn't have me basically pull the whole wiring for the interior lights and and inspect every inch? A tool/short finder that works for the type of short I have?
Anyone know the official name for a short that is a switched ground wire grounding out?
Thanks, Seth
 

navyboy65

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I was able to find my issue! Turned out it was 2 (out of 3) wires I ran some years back to add some other GM review mirror that had lights on the bottom! 2 of the 3 wires were pressed against the pillar and had worn through the insulation, grounding. Keeping my interior lights on. I fixed the wires and double insulated them! If there is a next time I will go straight to those wires first! Oh, I did use a Power Probe 3000 which once I hooked it up right, took me right to the short!
Thanks for the help!
 
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