Headliner install, anyone do this to a rclb

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joep88cheyenne

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joep88cheyenne

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Any one change theirs out? I have the basic wt style interior and can't find a true description for the complete board and color liner, because everyone says theirs will not fit in my truck.

BTW the screens in the back window are the ones that stick on the side windows. I have 3 of them across the back to keep the sun off my neck. Very effective and can be removed if the local LEO folks object.
 
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someotherguy

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Dunno about style headliner but I can tell you in TX you need not worry about your back windows, you could spray paint them solid black if you like. Or to be more realistic, any level of tint you prefer. 35% would be good as you would still have night time visibility.

Where TX gets upset about tint is if you do front door windows darker than 35%, or any tint at all on the windshield.

Richard
 

deejaaa

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i've recovered my cc headliner going on 9 years now. still looks new. got my material from walmart. use 'heads up' adhesive. not hard, just time consuming. should be the same no matter what style cab.
 

sewlow

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I like 3M 'Spray 90' as a first choice of glue for doing H/L's. 3M 'Spray 76' is a close second.
DO NOT use 'Featherspray' (yellow can/red writing) or 'Elmer's Spray Glue'. That stuff goes everywhere. Little strings of it will float a long ways away & land on everything. Contains acetone. Not paint friendly!

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Eveready

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Sewlow is there any particular device you use to press the material into all the curves and dips in the headliner board? I was wondering if any kind of roller would be used or just work from the inside to the edges pressing it down. Is this cement like one time contact cement or does it allow a little bit of wiggle room for getting bubbles out?
 

7thdarkangel

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Redid mine about 8 years ago and its till holding good. I ended up adding a layer of fiberglass to the board because it was pretty soft. Just sprayed the board and lay the material down. Not to hard.

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most of the lumps are from the soft board. the rest are from bad fiberglass work.
 

sewlow

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Lay the material over the H/L panel. You'll need it to be a couple of inches larger all around.
Roll it back 1/2 from side-to-side. Spray the glue on both the panel & the material. A very light coat on the material. Very light! Too much & it'll soak into it. Let the glue tack up some. Another light coat on the material. The first coat should be dry before the 2nd coat. The first one will help to prevent the 2nd from soaking through.
Start from the center & lightly press the material down, working to the outer edges. Repeat for the other 1/2.
Don't press the fabric down in the center too hard when doing the first 1/2. If you do, there will be a crease mark in the center.
The actual real H/L material is stretchy. To do the outer corners where the H/L is curved, hold the material up a bit from the panel & pull it slightly while pressing out any wrinkles with the other hand, working from the inside to the out.
By letting the glue dry a bit & by lightly pressing it down by hand, the fabric can be lifted if it's wrong or has a wrinkle with a quick snap up of the material. Rollers will leave marks. This is a job best done by hand & feel.
Once it's all down, then you can use more pressure by hand to get the glue to stick well.
Flip the H/L over & glue the extra material hanging off around the edges along with the back of the H/L about 2 or 3" up. Wrap the material around making any cuts or kerfs to allow the fabric to fit the outer contours of the panel. Small cuts at first. You can always nip them a bit bigger if needed. Too much of a cut & it may be seen when the H/L is in the truck. Multiple small cuts work better than one large cut.
Other places where the material bunches up can be squeezed together & then cut off flush.
After that, cut out the holes for the light & the visors. O/H console too, if you have one.
 
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