Had enough, bought a motor, time to swap.

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dave_erald

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So... after being fed up to to the top with that DS-4, the bad wiring, fluid lines and general incompetence at the last that tried putting this truck together before me, I pulled the engine.

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dave_erald

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Me and a buddy drove out to Hamilton, bought a 599 block 6.2 out of a 92 4x4 half ton. Wiring, ecm, pump, pan, injectors, flywheel and all accessories. $300. Yeah I can live with that.


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Painted up and ready to drop in. I think for now due to budget restraints that's all as far as the engine is concerned that I can spend money on.
 

dave_erald

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So it goes without saying that I could have easily accomplished this task with out pulling all of the body work off but several reasons forced my hand and rather than ignore them I just opted to spend a little bit of money here and i'll begin by listing what was missing or incorrect and that should make it apparent why.

- Both fender sides (inner and outer) missing half the bolts of normal.
- Incorrect or missing bolts for bellhousing (seriously wish that I was making half this up, I lost count of how many times I half uttered under my breath "why in the @*#& ?" )
- Cut, chafed or melted wiring
- BOTH ENGINE MOUNTS were missing bolts, incorrect and both were completely worn out, hell even the casing was cracked on the one, maybe I'll get a pic of that if I remember.
- Engine oil cooler line looped back into itself with heater hose. Yup...

It's wild how many bolts you can be missing and still keep a truck together...
 

dave_erald

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Pulled body work, motor and cleaned up and painted the frame with POR-15 as best I could. Only the frame for now as a future modification will be tossing the independent suspension for leafs and an axle.

So the quart of POR-15 was cheap, not.

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Once the weather comes around I'll drop the engine in and start mocking up acc's, and hoses. Oh right, there was another reason I pulled the front clip. There is a shop in town that the factory gets all there hyd hoses made up from and they do work for regular joe customers as well. So, braided hose, AN fittings and parker hoses for the hydroboost and steering, fuel, engine oil cooler, turbo feed and drain, and cooling. Figure I'll change out all the other hoses and lines at the same time. You know, cause tranny lines with like two or three splices each has been on the truck long enough.
 

dave_erald

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UPDATE 05/25/13 - Exhaust and fuel

So, it's not even running yet but just looking at the exhaust and remembering how unexciting the factory exhaust is I went and bought some new stuff.

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* THIS IS NOT A DIRECT FIT KIT *

That being said it is close enough, and comes with enough hardware to make it fit, and it should be relatively simple.


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This kit is from MBRP and is kit number S5208AL. Its a 4" in, dual 4" out aluminized steel split side exit exhaust. One of the vehicle fitments is 2000-2004 Ford F250 with a V10, Reg cab long box. Kit cost was $439 plus tax, and was free shipping to my door from TDOT Performance in Toronto. I mean it comes down the pass side of the truck, the int pipe is plenty long and comes with a welded on reducer to 3". Theres an extra hanger to bolt to the frame with a new rubber mount and some of the clamps already have bars welded on them. Now just to mount it all up.

Oh and the kit comes with 5" rolled edge stainless exhaust tips.
 

dave_erald

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Fuel

Hate the factory fuel system, 6.2 and the 6.5.

Bought a mount, filter/water seperator from NAPA, then went to Dynamic Fluid Products here in town and had them make up some braided steel hoses with AN fittings. I'll very soon get them to make up lines for the power steering and engine cooler as well.

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I had them make the lines just a little bit longer in case I decide to move the filter location or add a second filter to the system. The other line is a dash 6 AN and goes all the way down to the lift pump.

I hate leaks. I absolutely hate leaks. NO RUBBER LINES... hate hate hate leaks...
 

dave_erald

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Not putting A/C back in the truck so this was a good way of filling in a hole. Filter and mount covers the cut a/c line. Function over form... mostly.
 

dave_erald

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Oh, and the kit says for a 'gas' system but the muffler is straight thru and is the full 4" large inner diameter.
 

dave_erald

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UPDATE - More pics and one ' ooh hey, that's different ' ...

So, back to it, or more correctly i've been working on it off and on for the past month and slowly been working my towards a driveable truck again. Bolt the engine in, trans, go to bolt the torque converter. Uggh.

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Bolt pattern is wrong. 92 had a turbo 400 behind it with a six pad torque converter but that bolt circle for the converter is smaller than the 4l80-e. Crap, run up to the local trans shop, search through the listings and find the proper flexplate, correct size weight; find a flexplate that is the right bolt pattern for the crankshaft and the wider bolt circle for the 4l80-e. I'll try to find the part number if anyone is interested.
 

dave_erald

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Coolers, turbo drain.

Had Dynamic Fluids here in town make some Stainless steel flex hoses. -8 for the engine oil, -6 for power steering ( need to get a pic of those ) and -10 for the turbo drain.

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And got Klassen auto parts to get me in some Vibrant performance fittings. I got those part numbers somewhere here too. Had a friend weld the mild steel -10 an bung to the fuel block off plate ( dont have a welder of my own right now ). And the turbo drain adapter is a perfect match to the GM8 turbo. Even looks good and won't rot and leak either.

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