Delco starter

[chipskittles]

You can get new terminals that have the heat shrink on them, they work ok. Available everywhere, definitely at a marine supply like West Marine

 

[someotherguy]

The bolts look fine. Hopefully they're not too worn at the crosshatch area so that they have a slightly snug fit in the starter body. You can get new ones at the auto parts store in the Dorman line, but I'd prefer the stock bolts as they probably weren't made in China.

Richard

 

[east302]

It's hard to tell if there is any resistance, but the original bolts do have the stepped knurl like the gear reduction bolts. Going to play it safe and just order new GM bolts. You're right, made-in-China Dorman hasn't always worked out for me, either.

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This new starter (Delco 337-1018) does have 11 teeth (versus 9 on my original) so it looks like Delco is advertising this part as a 9-tooth direct drive but is actually substituting an 11-tooth gear reduction under the same part number.

The new one has "REMY" stamped near the terminals, and comparing it to RockAuto photos I think it's just a Remy #96206 Gear Reduction starter rebadged for ACDelco. Delco just hasn't updated their catalog to reflect the change.

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[Sleeper Van]

Yeah, it's probably all about the Benjamins. It would have been nice if they had tossed a new heat shield into the box, but I guess that's the way it goes sometimes.


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If you need a new/different heat shield Amazon has one for around $20.00. it's a double folded piece that has good heat resistance and it bolts up to the solenoid. Just FYI in case you need one. Good luck.

 

[Kirth Gersen]

Of course the stupid ignition feed ring terminal broke off where it connects to the starter.

What's the best way to fix this...Is there a certain type of heat shrink that should be used for this?

Conventional black heat shrink , typically polyolefin (sp?) is fine, you don't need special ultrahigh temperature teflon-based.
On the new terminal, don't just crimp-only, do a crimp plus solder for maximum reliability & no corrosion. Factory crimps are gas-tight, machine formed, and can't be easily equalled with hand crimping.
The thick copper wire makes it hard to properly heat the joint with an electric solder gun, and I've had better luck with the miniature-propane solder torches. You dont want to risk inadequately flowed solder & a weak cold joint.