Deadbeats 1997 Centurion Conversion

[deadbeat]

I made my passenger doors fit tonight, maybe tomorrow I can fit the drivers. My plan is to get the doors to fit first. Second, cut out the old cab corners and rocker panels and fit my new ones with self cutters. Then hang my doors again to make sure they clear. Then weld rockers and work to paint. Paint the roof and the door jambs. Then trim in the doors, new fenders, and new hood and paint the rest of the outside. The roof and door jambs first and then mask them off and get the rest. Then I'll just have to set the bed on it. I have to repaint the fender flares, they did not suit me.

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[deadbeat]

You know when 3 doors go on easy that something is about to go wrong. My drivers door did not fit easy. I had to remove the fender to spring it enough to sit level. I have to pick up some pins and bushings for it still so I left it about 1/8 inch low, the amount of play in the pins. The only thing i see wrong with it now is the gap is wide from about the top seam up. It was perfect on my factory door to the new rear so this door just isn't formed correct to fit the cab. I need to push the top of the door back about 1/16 to 1/8 to get it to suit me, otherwise I will buy another door. The door is open because as you know when fitting a door you should remove the striker until everything lines up and I didn't reinstall it last night. And the fender had to break one of the clips requiring me to cut a hole out to get it out. I have to replace that rusty inner fender while I am at it.

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[deadbeat]

I put in new pins and bushings and worked and got the drivers front door lined up. When I removed the moldings it had some rust on the drivers side rear and some bondo that looked like it was put over rust. Both passenger side doors peeled down to some bondo as well but no rust on them. One of them has to be worked as well so I'll see what it has but all four doors appear to have been worked and painted. This is probably why the drivers front door didn't fit well, it had been wrecked on each side at different times.

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[deadbeat]

I got it tore down a little further a couple days ago and began working on the doors. I can tell you from the start these doors have been side swiped on the passenger side and whoever fixed it thought drilling relief holes was the same thing as straightening the metal. No dents were pushed out, just holes drilled and lots of bondo applied. Once I get it all ground out I will dolly out the metal and rework these doors since they are rust free at the bottoms. You can see in the bottom photo the bondo was as thick as my finger, over a 1/4 inch.

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[deejaaa]

this was the same type of repair on the 96. paint started chipping so upon removing the inner trim i saw what looked like noodles from the drilled holes.
glad you're doing it right.

 

[deadbeat]

I have seen dent pullers where you drill the hole and pull it out and at first I thought they had done it this way, but that was not the case. I have a dent puller that you weld the studs on with (http://www.autotoolworld.com/H-S-Autoshot-5050-Stinger-Stud-Welder-Dent-Puller-Kit_p_142151.html) and I should be able to get it ready for bondo again. I may weld the holes up, I may just coat the bondo with rustoleum and let it be, the little holes won't hurt unless water gets to the bondo. Bondo in good metal will last as long as the metal or until it is damaged.

 

[deadbeat]

It is kind of messed up. Dad said they used to recommend to drill holes in the metal if you put the bondo in over 1/4 thick for it to have extra grip. I don't understand why they wouldn't pull it the best they could before just drilling holes and filling.

 

[deadbeat]

I took the DA to the top of the door and stripped the paint to the top seam, and ground out the rest of the bondo. Then after 2 hours with studs and pulling I got it ready to clean up and apply some filler. I had already cleaned and pushed the bottom out and worked it. I had to use the stud gun because most of the spots I need to pull out were in front of the inner door structure.

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And finally pulled out enough. I dread working it and the front door has a couple hours work on it as well. In beer time, thats like 8 - 10 hours. You can see 2 dents and a couple low spots I left with the DA so I don't forget to fix them below.

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[deadbeat]

I got one door ready for primer and should get 2 more ready today, if it is a good day then all 3 others ready except stripping the top parts. Its a lot of work getting them straight but there is absolutely zero rust in them so they should be worth it. I am going to clean them up and scuff them inside and coat them with rustoleum paint as well to prevent any rust. After that is is time to remove and replace those rusty cab corners and what is left of the rocker panels. I have to cut out the front glass because it leaks but I think I will cut out the rear as well so I can get the metal painted and go ahead and make sure it has a good seal while it is all apart. I am a firm believer in "Do it right one time".

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[deadbeat]

I got them ready to prime today, didn't really see a reason to post a pic. I think I'll paint inside them tomorrow and prime them Sunday, get a day of rest and a day to play with my 2 year old baby and spend time with my wife. Next week I guess I'll cut out the glass and the rockers and begin the hard work. I'll be sure to post some pics of that stuff and my slow slow progress.