Cam selection

[Iowan]

So I'm looking to install a camshaft for more power and a little bit different sound. It will be a daily driver with light duty off-roading and towing. I've chosen 3 cams and cant find which one I should,d use. Is it hard to install a camshaft? also what all do I need to buy with this cam? lifters and pushrods I know are a must, are springs and timing gear chain and kit necessary? I am just looking for what you think is the best choice?

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[slowburb]

Assuming a vortec engine. The bottom one. Roller lifters can be used again if they look OK. I'd replace the timing set and cover. Pushrods should be checked.

 

[Iowan]

Assuming a vortec engine. The bottom one. Roller lifters can be used again if they look OK. I'd replace the timing set and cover. Pushrods should be checked.

Thanks.

 

[big_mike]

You could also use the GM 395 cam which will run on a stock tune, give you some cam sound and keep great low end torque for towing. Also works with the stock stall converter. Same cam used in the 350 ramjet.

Check valve spring pressures and if they check out your good. If not grab a set. Check pushrods and if good reuse. Same goes for the lifters. Grab a new timing cover and gear/chain set.

Not a whole lot involved with a basic cam only swap.

 

[slowburb]

Springs must match cam. You'll want more spring for any of those cams.

 

[Ken K]

Changing your camshaft is the most important choice you can make. You said you picked 3 cams, but I see 4 photos. #2 is roller with a dual pattern grind to get the exhaust open quicker. Plus with a lobe centerline of 112 will improve cylinder pressures at the low to mid RPM range. Using roller lifters is taking advantage of the best of the choices, but as always, springs are very important and possible contact with seal or retainer. This is where many get the degree wheel out, dust it off and install a dial indicator on the push rod with a temp weak valve spring to setup. Ask your nearby buddies to help out. Most, like us will pitch in with advice, weekend help...just have some beer in the fridge (Their favorite kind).
The lower "Lobe Separation Angle" is lower cylinder pressures, good for higher RPM and choppy idle, lower vacuum and may suggest a stall convertor to keep from pulling at the red light. A higher "LSA" will increase pressures, good for low to mid range torque and with 112 lobe centerline, you will have a nice idle note.
Exhaust makes the sound but the cam makes the note. A trumpet makes noise, but the player make the tune.
Roller is more expensive buy allows for more features like the dual pattern to hit hard during downshift towing as well at cruise speeds. Yes... new roller lifters, springs, quality pushrods plus a new TC&G will last a long time and serve you well. You will find it on everything new that is not Over-Head-Cam. Note for best practices; proper pre-lube, ready to start (Tools for adjusting lash / ways to do it right before starting also), let run at 1,500 - 2,000 RPM's for a good 15 - 20 minutes for proper breaking upon first start, so just be ready, plan your time of day because it does take time to adjust afterwards (Timing, check idle, leaks, etc.)

My advice is the call the tech line at COMP. Have your notes ready as they will ask for intended use, engine modifications like headers, tube size, tranny, stock convertor or not, final drive ratio and tire size. Other than that...it's easy! Ha, Ha.

Retired ASE Master tech

 

[arrg]

The 408 and 410 cam will make about the same torque at about the same RPM, but the 408 will probably make a few more hp. The 500 cam will make a few less peak ft/lb but about the same hp as the 408, and it might yield a slight MPG difference and a smoother idle. Print those pages out, put them on the wall and throw a dart; you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference between them.

 

[Iowan]

Changing your camshaft is the most important choice you can make. You said you picked 3 cams, but I see 4 photos. #2 is roller with a dual pattern grind to get the exhaust open quicker. Plus with a lobe centerline of 112 will improve cylinder pressures at the low to mid RPM range. Using roller lifters is taking advantage of the best of the choices, but as always, springs are very important and possible contact with seal or retainer. This is where many get the degree wheel out, dust it off and install a dial indicator on the push rod with a temp weak valve spring to setup. Ask your nearby buddies to help out. Most, like us will pitch in with advice, weekend help...just have some beer in the fridge (Their favorite kind).
The lower "Lobe Separation Angle" is lower cylinder pressures, good for higher RPM and choppy idle, lower vacuum and may suggest a stall convertor to keep from pulling at the red light. A higher "LSA" will increase pressures, good for low to mid range torque and with 112 lobe centerline, you will have a nice idle note.
Exhaust makes the sound but the cam makes the note. A trumpet makes noise, but the player make the tune.
Roller is more expensive buy allows for more features like the dual pattern to hit hard during downshift towing as well at cruise speeds. Yes... new roller lifters, springs, quality pushrods plus a new TC&G will last a long tim e and serve you well. You will find it on everything new that is not Over-Head-Cam. Note for best practices; proper pre-lube, ready to start (Tools for adjusting lash / ways to do it right before starting also), let run at 1,500 - 2,000 RPM's for a good 15 - 20 minutes for proper breaking upon first start, so just be ready, plan your time of day because it does take time to adjust afterwards (Timing, check idle, leaks, etc.)

My advice is the call the tech line at COMP. Have your notes ready as they will ask for intended use, engine modifications like headers, tube size, tranny, stock convertor or not, final drive ratio and tire size. Other than that...it's easy! Ha, Ha.

Retired ASE Master tech

Thanks!!! I'm pretty fresh to cams, I know some basics, tech tips, and correct way incorrect way type stuff. As for the 4 pictures, I accidentally did that. I really don't want one of those cams that hardly keeps the engine going. any idea what this would sound like? I have 3.73 gears and I'm not sure what the stall is on a stock 4l60e but I thought I read it was 1750. Do you think I need a new converter? Would it be wise to do the head porting, Holley EFI conversion, and headers? Thanks again.

 

[Ed_P]

I just put the 260HR in my engine. It has only run on the dyno so far but it had oodles of torque peaking at 450 at 4100 RPM and 375 HP . Still waiting for the seat of the pants dyno, the best kind !!

I chose the 260 because it keeps stock converter and is very streetable and still delivers ( what I need it to ) and I sound very similar to your usage

Your results may vary...

 

[slowburb]

Changing your camshaft is the most important choice you can make. You said you picked 3 cams, but I see 4 photos. #2 is roller with a dual pattern grind to get the exhaust open quicker. Plus with a lobe centerline of 112 will improve cylinder pressures at the low to mid RPM range. Using roller lifters is taking advantage of the best of the choices, but as always, springs are very important and possible contact with seal or retainer. This is where many get the degree wheel out, dust it off and install a dial indicator on the push rod with a temp weak valve spring to setup. Ask your nearby buddies to help out. Most, like us will pitch in with advice, weekend help...just have some beer in the fridge (Their favorite kind).
The lower "Lobe Separation Angle" is lower cylinder pressures, good for higher RPM and choppy idle, lower vacuum and may suggest a stall convertor to keep from pulling at the red light. A higher "LSA" will increase pressures, good for low to mid range torque and with 112 lobe centerline, you will have a nice idle note.
Exhaust makes the sound but the cam makes the note. A trumpet makes noise, but the player make the tune.
Roller is more expensive buy allows for more features like the dual pattern to hit hard during downshift towing as well at cruise speeds. Yes... new roller lifters, springs, quality pushrods plus a new TC&G will last a long time and serve you well. You will find it on everything new that is not Over-Head-Cam. Note for best practices; proper pre-lube, ready to start (Tools for adjusting lash / ways to do it right before starting also), let run at 1,500 - 2,000 RPM's for a good 15 - 20 minutes for proper breaking upon first start, so just be ready, plan your time of day because it does take time to adjust afterwards (Timing, check idle, leaks, etc.)

My advice is the call the tech line at COMP. Have your notes ready as they will ask for intended use, engine modifications like headers, tube size, tranny, stock convertor or not, final drive ratio and tire size. Other than that...it's easy! Ha, Ha.

Retired ASE Master tech

Funny. My experience with LSA, cylinder pressure, RPM, idle, etc, is nearly the exact opposite of what you posted.