Cab mount bracket destroyed by rust

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95bucket

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When you have a welder a sheet of metal is whatever you want it to be

Hence my 1/4" plate steel purchase.
BTW how would you go about keeping rust off the new brackets? I was gonna leave the old brackets and build the new one around them. I figured treating the old ones for rust then top coating. Plug welding the new metal to old and using cold galvanizing compound in between the points of contact on the new steel. Then Bed liner the damn thing. I'm open to other ideas
 

90halfton

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Hence my 1/4" plate steel purchase.
BTW how would you go about keeping rust off the new brackets? I was gonna leave the old brackets and build the new one around them. I figured treating the old ones for rust then top coating. Plug welding the new metal to old and using cold galvanizing compound in between the points of contact on the new steel. Then Bed liner the damn thing. I'm open to other ideas
Sounds like a solid rust proofing plan. Nothing will keep steel from rusting, should prolong it pretty good though
 

Bob L

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Over lapping two pieces of metal is the worst thing you can do to prevent future rust. Block up the cab where it needs to be cut the old bracket off and weld on a new one. Two triangles with a top welded on and a hole for the mount. Also two pieces welded over each other will probably creak and squeek as the old metal gets even weaker.
 

90halfton

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Over lapping two pieces of metal is the worst thing you can do to prevent future rust. Block up the cab where it needs to be cut the old bracket off and weld on a new one. Two triangles with a top welded on and a hole for the mount. Also two pieces welded over each other will probably creak and squeek as the old metal gets even weaker.
This is true, I overlooked the new over old part.
 

95bucket

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Is your picture front or rear ?
The radiator ones are the same size as the front ones.
The rear ones are taller.
All rubber mounts available through LCM truck.

Also, no one makes any of the brackets that weld to the frame.
Any bracket that bolts on are available.

I just went through this on my truck. Your best bet is making some as you are.

What gauge steel did you use? I just bought 1/4" but the welder I have is only good for 1/8" maybe (the box says up to 3/16" which is likely a stretch) because it's 90amps AC only (flux core fed). Wondering if I should even try this repair without investing some of my parts budget to getting a new welder. $$$$ :(
What gauge steel in your opinion is upto the task of replacing stock brackets? Having said that, the stock brackets are pretty damn thin so maybe I don't need to go so heavy. Although, overkill is never bad when it comes to structural repairs imo.
 

leakers

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I had the body mount rust issue, but didn't realize how bad it was. Then one day I had a bit of an off road experience thanks to someone else's bad driving, and the rh rear cab mount broke through while I was bouncing through a ditch....along with engine and gearbox mounts.
The warning I have here is that the back lower seam of the cab sliced through the top of the gas tank.... I was literally sitting on a Bomb, I did not realize that at the time and drove another few hundred miles. The truck did not burn but one spark and it easily could have...
I made a temporary repair with some large steel bearing retainers (washers) from an agricultural machinery dealer and a stack of rubber circles I cut out of some old mudflap/conveyer belt rubber.
To make the permanent repair I bought the rubber mounts from LMC truck and found someone in Arizona ( dry /no rust) who was willing too cut mounts along with a piece of frame off a wreck for me, I got them back to New Zealand where I trimmed them up and welded them to my frame ... looks original and therefore is legal here without an engineers report.
I have used the poly bushes before on another truck and found them harder riding and after a while the squeaked, NOTHING would stop it permanently until I put the rubber ones back, I have found the same with suspension parts.
 
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