Cab corners stamped wrong

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

95bucket

I'm Awesome
Joined
Feb 1, 2017
Messages
199
Reaction score
50
Location
Maryland
Was gonna try to section these and make them work. Anyone think this won't work?

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

kennythewelder

Officially Retired, B31-3 (6-G) certified welder.
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2014
Messages
6,519
Reaction score
9,164
Location
Louisiana
If you are a good welder, it would be easy, but that is one hell of a miss. It would make me want to send them back. If I was doing it, I would cut them in the bottom seam and take out the extra there. That way when you weld them back together, it won't show, and with the weld in the seam it will be stronger, and less likely to distort from welding.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

michael hurd

Stalker be gone.
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
1,876
Reaction score
603
They are slid too far up, and stick too far out.

Cut below the body line, make your joint about 3/4 inch below that line, unless the corner is too far gone. Less filler needed.

You will also have to likely grind the flange on the front side, they are too wide. The notch where it meets the lower rocker turn will also need to be deepened.

Completely remove the old rotted out cab corner up just below the top line on your replacement. ( make a 1/8" lap joint, way easier to weld to )

Scribe and cut part way around the corner ( flange ) at the front, finish with a sharp chisel. Drill spot welds, remove old piece of flange.

The corner should now fit tight to the body. It is literally cut and fit, and the more you fit it, the better it will turn out.

"Some modification required"
 

michael hurd

Stalker be gone.
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
1,876
Reaction score
603
Also, forgot to mention there is a metal internal brace that comes out from the rear floor section to meet the cab corner stamping right at the top body line area, slightly above. It is foamed to the outer cab corner with nice, flammable foam that will put a damper on your spirits if it starts on fire.

Keep an air hose with blow nozzle handy and pull the trim back is a good idea.
 

95bucket

I'm Awesome
Joined
Feb 1, 2017
Messages
199
Reaction score
50
Location
Maryland
thanks for the insight

The vendor refunded me and let me keep them (classic industries). So they're free. Hence the inclination to use them. I appreciate the step by step but it's hard to follow without visual aid as a novice. I am enlisting the help of a friend who restores old air cooled volkswagens. Hopefully it will turn out well. I don't think I should try it myself with my harbor freight welder. Lol

I do have one question: how do you protect the inside of the cab corner after it's welded on? Also the rockers. Doesn't it need corrosion protection on the inside too? Seems impossible to spray primer or something in there afterwards. Thx again
 

deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
Joined
Nov 30, 2014
Messages
1,006
Reaction score
434
Location
Means KY
Make sure to clean that primer off the outside because it is hard to weld over, it pops and cracks a lot. Are those cab corners down as far as they should go? Most of the time you have to trim some on the inner lip to let them lay in far enough on the bottom?
 
Top