BROKEN EXTRACTOR DOWN OIL SENDING HOLE 1992 GMC 5.7 350

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Jeffgmcgrr

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What's the consensus on sealing the brass elbow off with and RTV J-B Weld combo. If you look above in the earlier pictures you can see how I damage the threads drilling the brass out but the new elbow threads fairly snugly
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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How worried do I need to be about the finite brass shavings that are undoubtedly in there. So far I've been able to fish up these bits I think this is artifacts of broken drill bits

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Jeffgmcgrr

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If the tool is made of titanum it will not be magnetic or attracted to a magnet, but I think a titanium one would be way too brittle anyway......Using Titanium Nitride ( friction reducing ) coating on an extractor is a bit pointless, HOWEVER
as everybody else has said, try to use the oil to blow it out. Take out the new oil sender ( put a clean white rag over the hole ( so you can see the piece when it comes out) , and remove the distributor, then use a oil pump priming tool and a drill to turn the oil pump and flush the piece back out the way it went in.
I'm trying to make sense of this but the distributor all that is off. If I dropped an extractor down the hole, where do you suggest I pump fluid in to geyser it out.
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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Whats frustrating me is I haven't been inside of a 350 small block before. I can't Envision what is underneath the sending unit passage or what the cavity looks like so to speak. I'm going to drain all my oil. If I leave the oil filter off and pour oil down the sending unit hole will that drain out my oil filter housing?
 

evilunclegrimace

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What's the consensus on sealing the brass elbow off with and RTV J-B Weld combo. If you look above in the earlier pictures you can see how I damage the threads drilling the brass out but the new elbow threads fairly snugly


The threads are tapered so they should seal just fine. Before you install the new elbow, remove the oil filter and the side galley plug and flush the galley with mineral spirits from the top down.This will help to remove any of the chips from drilling and prevent any damage to the engine bearings.
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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The threads are tapered so they should seal just fine. Before you install the new elbow, remove the oil filter and the side galley plug and flush the galley with mineral spirits from the top down.This will help to remove any of the chips from drilling and prevent any damage to the engine bearings.
Okay, I'm off to ****** O'Reilly, I am banking on the fact that this will flush the rest of the debris.
 

leakers

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I'm trying to make sense of this but the distributor all that is off. If I dropped an extractor down the hole, where do you suggest I pump fluid in to geyser it out.
You have the part out now so it makes little difference.
It was obviously made of iron or the magnet wouldn't have picked it up!! Titanium is NOT magnetic ... What I was trying to suggest is using an oil pump priming tool( look it up at Summit etc ) to get oil to flow from the sump through the engines own oil pump to the pressure sender port, as you seemed reluctant to start the engine and force it out that way....turning the oil pump with a priming tool will not rotate any other part of the engine but would pressurize the oil sender gallery , and hopefully remove the part.
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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You have the part out now so it makes little difference.
It was obviously made of iron or the magnet wouldn't have picked it up!! Titanium is NOT magnetic ... What I was trying to suggest is using an oil pump priming tool( look it up at Summit etc ) to get oil to flow from the sump through the engines own oil pump to the pressure sender port, as you seemed reluctant to start the engine and force it out that way....turning the oil pump with a priming tool will not rotate any other part of the engine but would pressurize the oil sender gallery , and hopefully remove the part.


Yeah I was given a photo this morning kind of makes what you're saying makes sense. I guess in theory since the oil Direction heads that way, starting the engine would have pressurized and evacuated debris out the port in lieu of continuing on down into the bearings. Actually still planning on flushing out the passage this morning. I don't see any need to introduce any metal contamination into my engine. Most extractors I thought were titanium which by the way is slightly metallic.... nonetheless thank you for your input. And here's to having a running truck in a few hours. Cheers
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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A few hours turned into weeks real quick....

First photo was the first solvent flush, pressurized to flow down the hole and exit through the oil filter housing. Actually took six flushes....
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Second photo is a snippet from the video I used to guide my screwdriver to the oil pump, also a good shot of the new fitting sealed off with high temp red... (no leak ;))
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After 3-4 times, I finally got the timing close enough tonight to run.. finally 2 months later I got to test the used transmission that was crossing my fingers on.

Unfortunately something still a little off, and if I plug in my electronic timing control my engine will die.. regardless sure did feel good to feel my transmission shift. so far, up to 3rd gear.

thanks
 
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