Bowtie Brody's Namesake 96 454

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Jay33089

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Yup! A little pricy, but going from Pennzoil conventional to Amsoil synthetic was such a noticeable change it sold me on spending a couple bucks more each oil change. Everything I've read says you can go at least a year between oil changes; but every 5,000/6,000 is going to be enough for me.
Do you buy yours offline or do you have a dealer in your neck of the woods? My local Napa is an Amsoil dealer, wish I would've known that before spending $100 on getting oil shipped to my house.



My mechanic said he'd pick more up, that's all I had in my truck from the last oil change. I wish Amsoil sold the big gallon jugs like everyone else; it's either quart jugs, or 55 gallon drum. And I don't have room for the drum,
My local Napa and Carquest both sell amsoil! Depends on who I feel like talking to when it's time to change oil! Lol!
 

BowtieBrody

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My local Napa and Carquest both sell amsoil! Depends on who I feel like talking to when it's time to change oil! Lol!

The guys at my Napa are cool as ****, they've all had their fair share of old cars and trucks and actually know what they're talking about instead of the kid and register jockeys down at O'Reilly's who though my truck was carb'd,
 

Jay33089

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The guys at my Napa are cool as ****, they've all had their fair share of old cars and trucks and actually know what they're talking about instead of the kid and register jockeys down at O'Reilly's who though my truck was carb'd,
I actually worked at the Carquest for a year! So that's usually where I go! The old man that runs it is cool as hell! the other boys that work there are pretty knowledgeable as well. Napa is pretty much the same way but never worked there!
 

BowtieBrody

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Just to torment you a bit. Z71 Tahoe lights installed
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I would hate it, but I can't
I've got two foglight switches with pigtails, but no fogs to be seen.

Okay everyone, got a question and a concern.

Got the truck back, runs like a hot damn, no leaks or anything now. Had an oil change done, Amsoil EL 10W30 and a Wix filter, also had the oil pressure sensor replaced with a BWD sensor. Oil pressure cold is as good as ever, 60 PSI cruising at 45-50 MPH, and 40 PSI idling.
Warm oil pressure is a whole 'nother story; it runs a tick below or right at 40 PSI cruising at 45-50, and will run a tick over 40 when I punch it, idling is either at 20, or a tick under.

Is that alright oil pressure? I really don't want to trash my engine.
@Jay33089, @Stepside_fever95, if it comes down to it, either of you know any good machine shops? All the ones around me went to piss in a pot and out the window in the last year,
 

Stepside_fever95

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I would hate it, but I can't
I've got two foglight switches with pigtails, but no fogs to be seen.

Okay everyone, got a question and a concern.

Got the truck back, runs like a hot damn, no leaks or anything now. Had an oil change done, Amsoil EL 10W30 and a Wix filter, also had the oil pressure sensor replaced with a BWD sensor. Oil pressure cold is as good as ever, 60 PSI cruising at 45-50 MPH, and 40 PSI idling.
Warm oil pressure is a whole 'nother story; it runs a tick below or right at 40 PSI cruising at 45-50, and will run a tick over 40 when I punch it, idling is either at 20, or a tick under.

Is that alright oil pressure? I really don't want to trash my engine.
@Jay33089, @Stepside_fever95, if it comes down to it, either of you know any good machine shops? All the ones around me went to piss in a pot and out the window in the last year,
My buddie's dad owns Carolina Engine Heads in High Point. I haven't had anything done but I've heard good about them.

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Jay33089

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I would hate it, but I can't
I've got two foglight switches with pigtails, but no fogs to be seen.

Okay everyone, got a question and a concern.

Got the truck back, runs like a hot damn, no leaks or anything now. Had an oil change done, Amsoil EL 10W30 and a Wix filter, also had the oil pressure sensor replaced with a BWD sensor. Oil pressure cold is as good as ever, 60 PSI cruising at 45-50 MPH, and 40 PSI idling.
Warm oil pressure is a whole 'nother story; it runs a tick below or right at 40 PSI cruising at 45-50, and will run a tick over 40 when I punch it, idling is either at 20, or a tick under.

Is that alright oil pressure? I really don't want to trash my engine.
@Jay33089, @Stepside_fever95, if it comes down to it, either of you know any good machine shops? All the ones around me went to piss in a pot and out the window in the last year,
I always use Carolina Engineering. He's in Forest City. That's probably a bit further than you wanna go though. The guy that runs it is the one of the best there is, if you can get past his dry demeanor! Lol! Any way just about all the 400s I've had, small and big blocks. Have the same oil pressure characteristics when they get some miles on them. If your staying around 20 when idling warm I wouldn't worry too much. There is enough volume of oil going through to keep everything happy. One thing I do though in my high mileage engines is replace one quart of oil with Lucas Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer. This helps on the warm side. Put mine back up a few pounds while idling warm. I've had a couple trucks I've put heavier oil in. (10w40, even 20w50) plus the Lucas. Never gave any problems. Drive them for thousands of miles and eventually sold them. Again these were high mileage engines. (Well over 200k)
 

Christian Steffen

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I would hate it, but I can't
I've got two foglight switches with pigtails, but no fogs to be seen.

Okay everyone, got a question and a concern.

Got the truck back, runs like a hot damn, no leaks or anything now. Had an oil change done, Amsoil EL 10W30 and a Wix filter, also had the oil pressure sensor replaced with a BWD sensor. Oil pressure cold is as good as ever, 60 PSI cruising at 45-50 MPH, and 40 PSI idling.
Warm oil pressure is a whole 'nother story; it runs a tick below or right at 40 PSI cruising at 45-50, and will run a tick over 40 when I punch it, idling is either at 20, or a tick under.

Is that alright oil pressure? I really don't want to trash my engine.
@Jay33089, @Stepside_fever95, if it comes down to it, either of you know any good machine shops? All the ones around me went to piss in a pot and out the window in the last year,

Confirm the pressure with a mechanical gauge. Even so, there is nothing wrong with 20 psi.
 

BowtieBrody

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I always use Carolina Engineering. He's in Forest City. That's probably a bit further than you wanna go though. The guy that runs it is the one of the best there is, if you can get past his dry demeanor! Lol! Any way just about all the 400s I've had, small and big blocks. Have the same oil pressure characteristics when they get some miles on them. If your staying around 20 when idling warm I wouldn't worry too much. There is enough volume of oil going through to keep everything happy. One thing I do though in my high mileage engines is replace one quart of oil with Lucas Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer. This helps on the warm side. Put mine back up a few pounds while idling warm. I've had a couple trucks I've put heavier oil in. (10w40, even 20w50) plus the Lucas. Never gave any problems. Drive them for thousands of miles and eventually sold them. Again these were high mileage engines. (Well over 200k)

It won't cause any issues with the Amsoil would it? I thought about running Lucas conventional oil stabilizer if I stuck to Pennzoil, is the synthetic stuff that same way?

Confirm the pressure with a mechanical gauge. Even so, there is nothing wrong with 20 psi.

I'll be picking up a mechanical gauge from Napa tomorrow, is there a test port anywhere? And I'm more concerned about my driving/cruising pressure, does 40 PSI sound good?

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Picture of the culprit. Still haven't figured out the rich issue, old plugs were still in great shape, cap and rotor were fine, fresh plug wires. Any other suggestions? I was gonna try and reclean my MAF in case there was oil on it when I still had the K&N in the truck.
 

Christian Steffen

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It won't cause any issues with the Amsoil would it? I thought about running Lucas conventional oil stabilizer if I stuck to Pennzoil, is the synthetic stuff that same way?



I'll be picking up a mechanical gauge from Napa tomorrow, is there a test port anywhere? And I'm more concerned about my driving/cruising pressure, does 40 PSI sound good?

You must be registered for see images attach

Picture of the culprit. Still haven't figured out the rich issue, old plugs were still in great shape, cap and rotor were fine, fresh plug wires. Any other suggestions? I was gonna try and reclean my MAF in case there was oil on it when I still had the K&N in the truck.

I can't see your picture for some reason. I'd check your o2 sensors if it looks to be running rich. Can't remember if you have something to datalog with? Check fuel trims, ect sensor, etc.

Also, I can't remember for sure if there are any other oiling ports that are easy to get to. I'd just pull the sender and use that one. Or start pulling plugs until you find one that has oil?
 
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