Blown Head Gasket... What's next?

[Curt]

I recommend replacing the head bolts. They stretch over time and they're too cheap not to.
My factory service manual specifies to replace them whenever the heads are removed.

That's what I was thinking too, are the head bolts TTY? If not, I'll put them on the list anyways just in case. Once I remove the head bolts I'll inspect em and see if I feel comfortable re-using them or not. I'm not in a rush to get her back on the road, so having to wait for some head bolts to come in won't be that big of a deal breaker.

If I do need to replace them, where would I be able to find a whole set of OEM ones or does anyone have any recommendations for which head bolts to get?

 

[Curt]

Oh yeah, my Dad and I were talking and in the next 5 years or so, the Suburban will most likely be getting an HT383E. Not because the motor is bad, it's simply because we want to give the 'burb a little more kick. Plus, it has a 4 bolt main instead of a 2 bolt, while still remaining to be a plug and play motor keeping all accessories, maintaining the integrity of the wiring harness, and the turn key reliability of Chevy crate motors.

That being said, is it necessary to send the heads off to a machine shop to be rebuilt? I know this is a question which will be hard to answer off the internet, but the reason behind this thinking is because the truck has never overheated, nor do i have any problems with compression (aside from cylinder #1 & 4). I do burn a little bit of oil, but my hypothesis is that cylinder #1 piston ring is slightly worn and correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the low compression in cylinder #4 is because of the head gasket. My dad isn't into the idea of spending another $200/head (that's our guesstimate, we never called any shops yet) if we won't be keeping the motor for a long time. He wants me to buy the gasket kit, and change the head gasket along with the other gaskets (minus the valve seals) and call it a day. I want to get the heads redone, but he doesn't. I'm not sure what to do... advice?

 

[c1500deathtrap]

For SBC i always use Chevrolet performance PN#10105117 head gaskets. They're the graphite composite style. And
Chevrolet Performance Head Bolt Kits 12495499.

 

[c1500deathtrap]

Check the Heads for flatness and cracks, can be done at home with a machinist straight edge and feeler gauges for flatness and florescent penetrant for cracks. if that checks out check your valve guides for wear and if its serviceable, run it. Also if you want it wouldn't hurt to check the valves for leaks by filling the ports with kerosene (with valve and springs still attached) to see if it leaks out.If it does give those valves a good lappin' while you got them off.

 

[skylark]

Vortec head bolts aren't TTY. The are the same bolts used since 1955. Don't believe me? Check any online parts sources. They are the same part numbers.
If you are looking at replacing the engine, drop in a set of valve stem seals and toss the heads back on.

 

[Curt]

For SBC i always use Chevrolet performance PN#10105117 head gaskets. They're the graphite composite style. And
Chevrolet Performance Head Bolt Kits 12495499.

Thanks for the part #'s!

Check the Heads for flatness and cracks, can be done at home with a machinist straight edge and feeler gauges for flatness and florescent penetrant for cracks. if that checks out check your valve guides for wear and if its serviceable, run it. Also if you want it wouldn't hurt to check the valves for leaks by filling the ports with kerosene (with valve and springs still attached) to see if it leaks out.If it does give those valves a good lappin' while you got them off.

Thanks for the info, I'll talk to my dad about doing that or sending it off to a shop (even though he doesn't want to).

Vortec head bolts aren't TTY. The are the same bolts used since 1955. Don't believe me? Check any online parts sources. They are the same part numbers.
If you are looking at replacing the engine, drop in a set of valve stem seals and toss the heads back on.

Thanks for the reassurance. I'll have to see how to do the valve stem seals. I really just want to send them down to a shop to get worked on, but I guess I'll have to call some shops once I get started to get some estimates and go from there. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

 

[Curt]

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Bought the gasket kit, new starter (old one was getting tired), power steering pulley puller, spark plug gap tool (just to have since its the cheapest on rock auto, and the ACDelco 131-151 thermostat.


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[GarrettGmc]

So a lesson I learned was to make sure the power steering pulley threads are clean and haven't been cross threaded before. When I was working on mine it'd twist then pop, similar to milk cap how you can sit there and just keep twisting it. Turns out bunch of crap built up inside and the threads had been damaged.

 

[Lordkay972]

^^
To add to this, never try to install a power steering pulley with a hammer also, be sure you get the pulley aligned properly when reinstalling (great way to eat through belts if not.)

 

[Curt]

So a lesson I learned was to make sure the power steering pulley threads are clean and haven't been cross threaded before. When I was working on mine it'd twist then pop, similar to milk cap how you can sit there and just keep twisting it. Turns out bunch of crap built up inside and the threads had been damaged.

Duly noted, I'll blow out the hole with compressed air before I start and check to see if anything is blocking the threads.

^^
To add to this, never try to install a power steering pulley with a hammer also, be sure you get the pulley aligned properly when reinstalling (great way to eat through belts if not.)

Haha I thought about it at first, but then I figured the set I bought for $15 would be worth it. How would I be able to tell if the pulley is properly aligned?