Ball joint spacers and front diff. Drop.

[MOBS]

Reeaallllyyyy... 4" and stock angles... Surely I don't need to explain my skepticism.

I can't say since I don't have experience with them, but I got that much or more and yeah, end of arms would've had to been bent to correct the angles back to stock. Maybe someone had fabbed his arms at one time? Or could be it's normal for that style truck

@Swims350, haha, you're right, my thinking was upside down! lol

 

[Swims350]

he made diff. drops, that will flatten them out, plus he said ALMOST not exactly stock but ALMOST.

 

[shrekmoose]

No not completely stock, but at a very nice acceptable angle. I bought the truck off the showroom floor and there was no work done that I didn't do. I'm still trying to find where someone did this on a full size. The way it looked when my truck was on the lift the other day it looked like spacers like I had on my canyon would t work. The bolts holding the front end in looked to be at and angle. And it looked like if i cranked much at all my UCA would hit a piece of metal bracketry. It was under the UCA bushing that was closest to the rear of the truck on both sides.

 

[Aparke4]

Bringing up an old thread: I am doing BJ's and TRE's soon and I have a 2 inch crank and wanted to see if anyone has done home made/ DIY upper BJ spacers on a k2500... I am debating on grinding the upper bumpstop but only need about of a 1/4 inch to get back to within stock measuments on the upper control arm. There is a company on ebay that makes a welded arm that looks great but they are 400$! I figure if I space the upper ball joint (already on the udnerside so no flip needed on the k2500/ 3500) down 1/4 inch maybe 3/8 at the most with 1/4 inch plate or washers it will get the upper BJ back to factory angles + provide the right clearance on the upper arm.

Thx!

 

[454cid]

...I space the upper ball joint (already on the udnerside so no flip needed on the k2500/ 3500) down 1/4 inch maybe 3/8 at the most with 1/4 inch plate or washers it will get the upper BJ back to factory angles + provide the right clearance on the upper arm.

Do not stack washers under your ball joints and drive on public roads.

 

[Aparke4]

What about these instead?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-Cont...749603?hash=item41ebab59a3:g:RVgAAOSw0ildpgRZ

 

[andy396]

What about these instead?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-Cont...749603?hash=item41ebab59a3:g:RVgAAOSw0ildpgRZ

Your camber curves would get kind of funky using these if they were combined with a diff drop. Regardless, wouldn't you still have to do something about the bump stop (like move it lower)? And if you move it lower, would the lower ball joint still have enough movement to not bind? At some point the CV angles are getting a bit much too, right?

 

[Aparke4]

Your camber curves would get kind of funky using these if they were combined with a diff drop. Regardless, wouldn't you still have to do something about the bump stop (like move it lower)? And if you move it lower, would the lower ball joint still have enough movement to not bind? At some point the CV angles are getting a bit much too, right?

Thx for the reply... also for peace of mind a new lift uses stock arms with the relocators. I am not a fan with how it rides cranked so the diff drop went on craigslist and I am going to install a 4 inch lift from either tuff country or pro comp as the RCX is 6 inches and I already have a 3 inch body lift. No need for 9 inches with just 35's... the 2 inch crank with 3 inch body lift barely rubs under compression on front wheels so 4 inch front suspension lift and body lift should clear no problem. I have a 1.5 rear block and will use a shacle lift to meet the front: either 1.5 or 2 inches but rear already sits a little higher so might no be needed after front lift gets installed.

 

[shrekmoose]

That’s funny I started this thread almost 10 years ago. Sold that 5sp truck 8 years ago and drive diesels. Now back in a gmt400 picked up a 97 z71 with 88k miles on it sat.

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[shrekmoose]

Thx for the reply... also for peace of mind a new lift uses stock arms with the relocators. I am not a fan with how it rides cranked so the diff drop went on craigslist and I am going to install a 4 inch lift from either tuff country or pro comp as the RCX is 6 inches and I already have a 3 inch body lift. No need for 9 inches with just 35's... the 2 inch crank with 3 inch body lift barely rubs under compression on front wheels so 4 inch front suspension lift and body lift should clear no problem. I have a 1.5 rear block and will use a shacle lift to meet the front: either 1.5 or 2 inches but rear already sits a little higher so might no be needed after front lift gets installed.

buy the 6 inch and crank it down mine is around 4 in the front and stock in the back and ride like a stock truck on these 15x12.5 and 33s