Another axle/differential noise question...

[Unabashedpraise]

If it was mine I would get it up on jack stands and put it in gear and run it to pinpoint the noise. Impossible to diagnose over the internet or phone. A million people will tell you what's wrong without actually having any idea. I'm definitely not going to advise you to throw parts at it or tear the entire truck apart. Just going to take some trouble shooting.

The noise is a low scraping/scuffing noise. Not a whine or whirr. I can't hear it over 35-40 mph due to wind noise. Very obvious at lower speeds with the windows down. It is audible under all acceleration and deceleration. While coasting on flat roadway it is very faint, or I'm unable to hear it. Noise is only there while moving, not subject to RPM, happens in all gears. Gets louder when I downshift, I think because it the is more of a load on the drivetrain.

I plan on checking the fluid and gears tomorrow. I'm trying to get our house sold, so it's been on the back burner.


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Sometimes the backing plate (dust sheild?) on the brakes rusts through and gets too close to rotating bits and makes scary sounds, probably only applicable to disc brakes though.

I did the same oil cooler lines and and gaskets at the block on my s10 Blazer. What a pain that was to work on. Drivetrain from full size truck shoehorned into a compact chassis.

I honestly thought it was the backing plate. I took a flapper wheel to the drums and plate. Maybe I'll try a bit more. I didn't have exactly what I needed before. In fact, maybe this calls for a bit of big freaking [emoji375].


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Did some checking on the rear end. Jacked up the rear end, took the cover off and turned the tires, driveshaft, and even put it in gear.

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When the gears spin, there is a slight scuffing noise and it seems to bind a little. It will spin easily until it hits the same spot. Then it takes more force, moves through the bind, then spins easily again.

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Here is a link to a video. Everytime it stopped or slowed,I was hitting the point where it binds up. Except when the car drove by...




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[magimerlin]

Did some checking on the rear end. Jacked up the rear end, took the cover off and turned the tires, driveshaft, and even put it in gear.

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When the gears spin, there is a slight scuffing noise and it seems to bind a little. It will spin easily until it hits the same spot. Then it takes more force, moves through the bind, then spins easily again.

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Here is a link to a video. Everytime it stopped or slowed,I was hitting the point where it binds up. Except when the car drove by...




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Start at .28 seconds in the video everyone... is it me or is that cross shaft moving side to side way to much when the carrier stops then starts up again. That pin should not have that much side to side play.

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[90halfton]

Start at .28 seconds in the video everyone... is it me or is that cross shaft moving side to side way to much when the carrier stops then starts up again. That pin should not have that much side to side play.

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I can see what your saying by the way the spider gears appear to have play/wobble, not too long after .28. it's not a coincidence that it binds up every 1/2 rotation of the ring gear. I would get in there with a big screwdriver/prytool and find the loose parts. It's a 10 bolt so I would year it down for rebuild or find a 14 bolt SF. If you have to tear into it for any reason at all might as well replace everything.

 

[Unabashedpraise]

I can see what your saying by the way the spider gears appear to have play/wobble, not too long after .28. it's not a coincidence that it binds up every 1/2 rotation of the ring gear. I would get in there with a big screwdriver/prytool and find the loose parts. It's a 10 bolt so I would year it down for rebuild or find a 14 bolt SF. If you have to tear into it for any reason at all might as well replace everything.

Does the rebuild include new gears? I honestly figured they would look trashed, but appear to look good to my untrained eye.


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[evilunclegrimace]

throw a dial indicator on it and check for ring gear run out.

 

[90halfton]

Does the rebuild include new gears? I honestly figured they would look trashed, but appear to look good to my untrained eye.


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What evil just said. When I did mine I didn't give a ****. They were 3.08s so they immediately went away. I believe my kit from national came with all bearings, seals, shims. Bought gears separate. Been some years and beers ago so I could be mistaken . Think all the bearings, etc were like 120$ or something . Probably more now of course.

 

[Unabashedpraise]

What evil just said. When I did mine I didn't give a ****. They were 3.08s so they immediately went away. I believe my kit from national came with all bearings, seals, shims. Bought gears separate. Been some years and beers ago so I could be mistaken . Think all the bearings, etc were like 120$ or something . Probably more now of course.

I have 3.73 gears, and tires size will be no bigger than 285/75/16. That should be an adequate gearing I believe. Sound about right?


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[90halfton]

I have 3.73 gears, and tires size will be no bigger than 285/75/16. That should be an adequate gearing I believe. Sound about right?


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I'd run em. Especially since, you'd have to swap out the front gears too. As gutless as these trucks are stock it's nice to have a little more gear. But 285s and 3.73 isn't bad, especially if you spend time on the hwy.

 

[Unabashedpraise]

Took it to a shop, they said front end, and referred me to a gear shop. Gear shop drove it, put it on a lift, said it's the rear end. $850 to fix. No thanks. Gonna order a kit and do it myself.

Also, any idea what wheel bearing number this thing uses? Seems the 99 suburban is a freak with part numbers. I know it's a 8.5", but a lot of companies don't.


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[Unabashedpraise]

Do these gears have too much play in them?

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