ADVICE: FLUSHING OUT "OIL SENDING SWITCH" PASSAGE. 92' 350V8 TBI 5.7

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Jeffgmcgrr

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After 6 x
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1 liter flushes I'm still producing brass. Like wtf.
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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All that brass from an extractor bit?
No it was drilling out the brass elbow that is connected to the oil sending unit. It broke off flush with the block but realistically it was only like three eighths of an inch off threads, how many times should I be getting gold flakes. Grr
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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Alright I'm convinced that my flush is adequate. Next comes the issue of timing. What is that part underneath the distributor cap that I took out?
 

alpinecrick

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I would normally agree with you when using Permatex. In his case he is concerned about damaged at the threads and the potential play within them. That is why I recommended using the Teflon tape.

Yellow thread tape is solvent proof, normally available at Home Depot. The spool will be yellow.

The spools that are red are for hot water, regular white spools are for cold water.

I would try double wrapping the tape too.
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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Lol. Yes it was the distributor.

Well it's been quite the journey but here is a status update. Teflon tape did not work. Regardless of how many layers or how deep I thread the tapered threads into the block.

I couldn't get my truck started for a minute do the timing but I'm a little better at getting the timing closer now.

My last ditch effort now is a thread compound designed for high temperature.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed this will stop the sieving oil leak. You cross yours too..
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Jeffgmcgrr

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Well I'm positive that I stopped my oil leak. Unfortunately I can't get my timing right though, how does one go about setting timing on an engine that won't start? I aligned the crank Mark to top dead center and dropped the distributor in ,pointing towards the first cylinder but it's backfiring now...
 
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