ABS activating when not needed

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Supercharged111

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I completely removed mine. Used TBI lines and removed the light in the dash. Also did SS lines.
 

jw_96

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Today while driving, my truck decided it didn't feel like driving anymore so it decided to start missing and bogging then eventually quit so I am stuck 50 mile north of bham in a park and ride dad picked me up went back to his house gonna have to get towed or something tomorrow

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Take some starting fluid (ether). You remove the air filter and spray some in if it starts your not be fuel. You said it's a new fuel pump listen to hear it run. If not check the fuses and the ground for the pump if it starts on ether is also check the icm (ignition control module) it controls your spark and your injectors
 

jw_96

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Take some starting fluid (ether). You remove the air filter and spray some in if it starts your not be fuel. You said it's a new fuel pump listen to hear it run. If not check the fuses and the ground for the pump if it starts on ether is also check the icm (ignition control module) it controls your spark and your injectors
Before truck got towed this morning I turned the key on and I heard the fuel pump run. So it's working. It felt like to me an O2 sensor I've had one go bad on my Jeep before. Cap and rotor we're just done I'd believe it if the icm was the issue.

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Dr.Zoom

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Look at the cap and rotor and all the connections and any other work you've just done and all the vacuum lines that may have been knocked loose or damaged while doing work. It doesn't hurt to recheck your work and it's something that should be ruled out.
 

El Tigre

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Same happened here. I deleted ABS system all together,and installed an adjustable prop valve for the rear.
 

jw_96

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Same happened here. I deleted ABS system all together,and installed an adjustable prop valve for the rear.
How hard was it to delete

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Ken K

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Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) are a good place to start. Retired ASE Master now, but it was common TSB, to have too large of an air gap between the permanent magnet wheel sensor (PMG) in relationship to the wheel speed target wheel or tooth reluctor. Generally, too much rust on mount surface. Second, Many sensors have an intermediate wire harness that allows for the need length to plug in. It fails. Spin the wheel by hand, with DMM on a/c scale, and check for a reading. The signal drops out at slow speeds, causing the ABS module to go to work that results in an in-desired ABS event. A lab-scope works best, but so does a Tech2. Check for a/c electrical activity while rotating the wheel by hand, check the air gap and any wire extension if all sensor test good as a strong consistant signal causes your described problem. You just have to find the root cause. Note: Small a/c signals are commonly two wire twisted 9 times per foot to help prevent outside "RF" interference. The ABS sensor outer covering is melted onto the wires and can not be fixed to last.
 

jw_96

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Sorry about not replying. I been busy got college orientation tomorrow. Truck got fixed there was an issue with the fuel pump and my mechanic fixed it under warranty. So it's up and running again. Pulled the abs fuse and no more abs haha. Truck is inside our shop since it had a water leak from the windshield seal since it was raining so I'm gonna silicone that
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