99 K2500 454 Suburban Build(ish) Thread

[my name is alex]

First, a pair of pics.

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And here's the 'before' pic - just came across it on my phone. She's got her original rusty chrome wheels and too small tires. Still kinda pretty though.

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She's got 66k original miles. I bought her from an older dude that had her since new and didn't drive too far too often, apparently. She's an LST and her leather is in great condition (though I suppose I'd prefer cloth).

I don't have any major 'build' plans for her other than to get her in good shape. I have no desire to raise or lower her (I've got two lowered cars and had a '77 k5 Blazer monster truck years ago). Once I take care of the basic stuff, I may be interested in some minor exhaust and engine tuning and upgrading to see if I can open up that 7.4 a bit.

So far I've done the following:

New tires and wheels (Yoko Gealander ATS 265/75/16 on black rims) - replaced cracked tires and rusty chrome rims

These new tires rubbed all over my saggy front end so I had the torsion bars torqued up to level her up and had an alignment done

Swapped out second row captain's chairs (sold on craigslist) for a bench

Replaced windshield (leaking badly from bad seal)

Changed oil and replaced fuel filter and air filter

Fixed up some minor electrical components - which is apparently a common issue with these trucks

Got her a new battery

And I just had a transmission service done and the leaky valve covers resealed

Any thoughts on that thin blue wire sitting against the valve covers? I don't recall noticing it before the reseal and I'm not sure it should be sitting against the valve cover. I'm heading back to the shop Monday (left my CC there), so I can ask the guys about it then.

That blue wire look right to you?

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My next pressing issue it dealing with the hard start when warm. I'm thinking it's the FPR. The shop that did my valve covers thinks it could be either the FPR or the fuel pump, and offered to diagnose it for $50. I'm thinking of trying to do the job myself, and swap out the fuel injectors while I have the upper plenum off. It's a big job for me, but it looks doable and I've already got some help and tips from some dudes here...

 

[ChristGilley]

This is a clean a$$ burb, man. Subbing to watch progress


Sent while pulling out a Ford

 

[my name is alex]

This is a clean a$$ burb, man. Subbing to watch progress


Sent while pulling out a Ford

Thanks Gilley. Interior is pretty clean too, my pics just didn't turn out so great, so you'all will have to wait at the edge of your seats to see it at a later date...

 

[STORMINNORMAN]

Nice man! Love the color. Well taken care of.

 

[skylark]

That wire is supposed to be there. It is the wire for the coolant temp sender for the gauge.

 

[PolarBear]

Good looking truck! Awesome find with low miles.

 

[my name is alex]

Nice man! Love the color. Well taken care of.

Thanks Norman. I'm liking the color more and more myself. I think it's "Pewter Metallic." Either that or "Storm Gray."

That wire is supposed to be there. It is the wire for the coolant temp sender for the gauge.

Thanks skylark. But I wonder if it's suppose to be lying right against the valve cover. I'm thinking those covers get hot. I just wonder if I should reroute it.

Good looking truck! Awesome find with low miles.

Thanks Bear. I'm a sucker for low miles, though I neglected to notice a few issues when I got her as I was blinded by her low mile beauty...

 

[volunteerff21]

Warm hard starts is most likely a combo of the FPR and the injectors, both fairly common problems. Just be sure to replace them with quality parts and you should be good. Some members have replaced the FPR with one for a 5.7 instead because its spec'd at 4 bar instead of the 3 bar for the 7.4 IIRC.

Also clean looking truck man. The 7.4 may suck on gas but man are they workhorses and so much fun to drive.

 

[my name is alex]

Warm hard starts is most likely a combo of the FPR and the injectors, both fairly common problems. Just be sure to replace them with quality parts and you should be good. Some members have replaced the FPR with one for a 5.7 instead because its spec'd at 4 bar instead of the 3 bar for the 7.4 IIRC.

Also clean looking truck man. The 7.4 may suck on gas but man are they workhorses and so much fun to drive.

Thanks man. She's got some minor dings you can't really see in the pics, but I don't mind. I figure a truck should have some signs of mild abuse.

I already have a replacement FPR - this one. I'm not sure if that's the 3 or 4 bar, but I'm thinking it's probably just the 3 as it's listed as fitting my truck on Amazon.

I'm leaning towards just doing this job myself (I usually have a shop do engine work) and replacing the injectors along with the FPR. I've just got a research the injectors, figure out if I need any special tools, and order some goodies. I may replace the plugs while I'm in there as well; I figure it'll be easier to reach things with some stuff out of the way.

And yeah, I love driving this beast, I've just got to put some electrical tape of the ODO or something...

 

[volunteerff21]

Thanks man. She's got some minor dings you can't really see in the pics, but I don't mind. I figure a truck should have some signs of mild abuse.

I already have a replacement FPR - this one. I'm not sure if that's the 3 or 4 bar, but I'm thinking it's probably just the 3 as it's listed as fitting my truck on Amazon.

I'm leaning towards just doing this job myself (I usually have a shop do engine work) and replacing the injectors along with the FPR. I've just got a research the injectors, figure out if I need any special tools, and order some goodies. I may replace the plugs while I'm in there as well; I figure it'll be easier to reach things with some stuff out of the way.

And yeah, I love driving this beast, I've just got to put some electrical tape of the ODO or something...

The job is just a lot of digging to get to the injectors and FPR, but nothing the average DIY mechanic cant handle. It took me about 4 hours in my driveway.

The only special tools youll need is a slim profile wrench to get the egr tube off (I just used an adjustable), and a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the FPR.

someotherguy did a very handy write up on chevytalk I believe. A quick google search should find it, its what I followed when I did mine. Id quote it on here but im on my phone lol.