96 Yukon GT wont turn over

[Yukon GT LS]

Terminator x max wired up...stock ecu and harness connected...just trying to get starter to turn over at key...it won't! I did jump starter and starter is good... I tried to plug back in the neutral safety switch still nothing!

 

[Yukon GT LS]

It's a 6.0 LS and 4L60

 

[GoToGuy]

Do you have power at starter solenoid the small wire ( purple ?) That activates solenoid, bendix, starter when turn key to start ?

 

[Yukon GT LS]

Do you have power at starter solenoid the small wire ( purple ?) That activates solenoid, bendix, starter when turn key to start ?

There's power at the big red wire feeding the relay board when key is off...I am running that purple under starter relay over to starter for signal...when I turn key nothin!

 

[Sean Buick 76]

I would start by having the battery load tested. Is this the first start up of the 6.0 or the problem just occurred?

 

[Yukon GT LS]

I would start by having the battery load tested. Is this the first start up of the 6.0 or the problem just occurred?

First startup...haven't setup any of the holley yet the holley ecu sn't even connected...I jist wanna get the truck to turn over at the key first then I'll setup the holley and start the car

 

[Komet]

I fixed this problem when I was 17 by stripping a wire out of a junkyard car and putting a ring terminal on one end. That end went on the solenoid, and the other end I stripped and twisted so it wouldn't fray. The other end I would slam around the back seat in the dark around the battery area until sparks happened and then I'd wiggle it around that area until my motor was runnin. I did end up wiring that directly to a momentary pushbutton before I sold it after smoking two ignition switches trying to run full battery juice through them.

What I'm trying to say is, without getting to know your electrical system better, you are headed down the spiral of hackery despair.

What older, wiser me would recommend, is downloading a factory service manual and tracing out the entire starter circuit as applicable to your vehicle, and then test for the signal going out on PPL. Sounds like you may still have a problem at the NSS, but try to confirm if you're getting the signal directly out of the ignition switch under the column first. You're going to need to know the electrical locations of a lot more stuff before the swap is over anyhow.

 

[Yukon GT LS]

I fixed this problem when I was 17 by stripping a wire out of a junkyard car and putting a ring terminal on one end. That end went on the solenoid, and the other end I stripped and twisted so it wouldn't fray. The other end I would slam around the back seat in the dark around the battery area until sparks happened and then I'd wiggle it around that area until my motor was runnin. I did end up wiring that directly to a momentary pushbutton before I sold it after smoking two ignition switches trying to run full battery juice through them.

What I'm trying to say is, without getting to know your electrical system better, you are headed down the spiral of hackery despair.

What older, wiser me would recommend, is downloading a factory service manual and tracing out the entire starter circuit as applicable to your vehicle, and then test for the signal going out on PPL. Sounds like you may still have a problem at the NSS, but try to confirm if you're getting the signal directly out of the ignition switch under the column first. You're going to need to know the electrical locations of a lot more stuff before the swap is over anyhow.

Could it possibly just be the crank fuse that's bad? Have not checked yet

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Could it possibly just be the crank fuse that's bad? Have not checked yet

Yes it could be that fuse. Check it. I've had these be bad on several Vortec trucks. Crazy thing is, they don't LOOK bad, no breaks in the loop, but replacing the fuse, fixed it!