96 centurion 2500 turbo diesel 4x4 standerd bed

[great white]

yours?

Hey, I said don't ask!

 

[nickthehick78]

it had a tv in the wood thing on the roof too. the old owner took it off. switch is still there. and fog and driving light switches up there too. they work. yea he did a new pmd with a crappy heatsink on the driver fender. i was torn if i should put in bumper and worry about water or leaving it on fender and worrying about heat. i had it sitting on the intake while i was waiting for the long wire and put 500 miles on it and ran fine. if fixing a guys truck now with a bad pmd. an 8 month grey stanadyne! sad. and it was on a big heatsink but on intake...

 

[nickthehick78]

once i get paid for fixing this guys truck im going to run through my new truck, looking at lift kits....harder to find for this truck. tuff country has one for 1400 shipped to me with shocks. 6". i have not checked out the lift section of this sight yet. im sure it will be helpfull.

 

[great white]

it had a tv in the wood thing on the roof too. the old owner took it off. switch is still there. and fog and driving light switches up there too. they work. yea he did a new pmd with a crappy heatsink on the driver fender. i was torn if i should put in bumper and worry about water or leaving it on fender and worrying about heat. i had it sitting on the intake while i was waiting for the long wire and put 500 miles on it and ran fine. if fixing a guys truck now with a bad pmd. an 8 month grey stanadyne! sad. and it was on a big heatsink but on intake...

Engine bay in general will eventually kill it.

It's a matter of heat cycles up and down eventually damaging the connections inside the PMD to the two big driver transistors. You leave it in there long enough, it will die. Then it will either stop running, stall until it cools or potentially the engine will completely runaway. First warning sign is usually your cruise control stops working, that usually means PMD problems are imminent.....

There's no worry of water damage if you get a quality kit with the proper metripak connector. They're water and weather tight as long as they're not cheap knock offs.

The intake mounted ones are actually worse than on the pump. On the pump it is at least cooled by the fuel passing thought he pump while running (as it was designed to). Hanging off the intake it doesn't benefit from the fuel cooling method and is bathed in radiator discharge heat. Then it heat soaks like on the pump when you shut it down. Double whammy.

Mine is mounted down under the bumper with a Bill Heath kit. 3 years (into my fourth), no problems. It's gone through 3 Canadian winters and it's been underwater a couple times in river crossings.

It's a Flight Systems new design PMD.

No troubles. 7 year replacement warranty.

The PMD went from the component that kept me up at night worrying and gave me the most trouble to the component that I don't even think about anymore and is the most reliable.

Went through a couple stanadyne PMD's before this one. One in the engine bay, once in the bumper. Both crapped out on me.

Best 500 bucks I ever spent.






(I still carry a spare in the glove box on a heat sink though, a good boy scout is always prepared!)

 

[nickthehick78]

oh boy....that is the one thing i ment to check....my cruise did not work! i have not run through the truck yet since i got it. i always do but have been busy with side work so im just driving it to make sure its worth putting money into. i have a 67 skylark 455, a harley custom wide glide, and a big turbo vw so money is spred thin, but i love it so far. have not touched my toys since i got it. i can get a pmd from advance auto for $250 with a lifetime warrentee so i was going to do that. i know they are not the best but i figure get new one and put "good" one i have now in glovebox.

 

[great white]

oh boy....that is the one thing i ment to check....my cruise did not work! i have not run through the truck yet since i got it. i always do but have been busy with side work so im just driving it to make sure its worth putting money into. i have a 67 skylark 455, a harley custom wide glide, and a big turbo vw so money is spred thin, but i love it so far. have not touched my toys since i got it. i can get a pmd from advance auto for $250 with a lifetime warrentee so i was going to do that. i know they are not the best but i figure get new one and put "good" one i have now in glovebox.

Before you replace it, pull the connector off and look for corrosion on the pins or in the female connector. If you see any of the green "schmutz" type stuff clean it off and put it back together. Then try your cruise. The corrosion often creates a high resistance bridge across pins that will conduct a small amount. This will cause your cruise not to work also.

Check to see if there are any fault codes in the PCM. The PMD may or may not set codes when it starts to fail that do not turn on the check engine light.

The PMD is the bane of all 6.5-ers existence. It's a 3 letter curse word to most.

The key elements to a good kit that lasts a long time and makes a PMD live are: a good redesigned PMD, a BIG heat sink, big temperature delta (IE: out of engine bay) and a quality harness.

While we're at it, it's worth your while to snake a mirror up behind the passenger side head and check the engine block build date. That will tell you is the engine has been replaced. A 96 would have the "506" block from the factory. These were some of the most troublesome castings. Most had failed early in their life and were replaced. If it's a later block, you may be lucky and have a replacement optimizer block, the best of the 6.5 breed, Date Codes will tell the tale.

All is not lost if it's the OEM block, some were good. If it's made it this long without a catastrophic failure, it will likely keep right on keeping on.

Have a look at your harmonic balancer for checking in the rubber insert, chunks missing or if it seems to be "squirting" out. This is a component that wears out over time and when it does it has been known to take out cranks and main webs due to imbalances.

That will get you started, i don't want to scare you off any more than I probably already have!

LOL.

The 65's can be good engines in a great truck and can be made to do a decent amount of work. There's just some spots that need to be shored up and some things that need to be changed out.

They're never going to be a powerhouse, but they can get great mileage while stil lhauling the mail.

Mine tows a 9,000 lb 35 foot travel trailer all over north america. It has literally touch the Pacifc and the Atlantic the longest way possible across the continent.

Mine isn't exactly stock anymore either though....

 

[nickthehick78]

yea not getting any of that in an advance auto kit. haha. i looked quick and the plug looked clean but it was dark out and i wanted to hear me new truck start. was worried when a used pmd i knew worked did not start it. that was a long way home getting it towed from the guys house. he said it needed a pump. im a ASE master certified med/heavy truck tech. have not worked on a chevy in like 8 years. i had a 82 blazer with a 6.2 years ago. loved it. so it is coming back to me, almost the same. ive been big into vw's the last 8 years so its a diffrent world working on this thing. the electronics are from the stone age compaired to a new vw or audi! haha

 

[great white]

yea not getting any of that in an advance auto kit. haha. i looked quick and the plug looked clean but it was dark out and i wanted to hear me new truck start. was worried when a used pmd i knew worked did not start it. that was a long way home getting it towed from the guys house. he said it needed a pump. im a ASE master certified med/heavy truck tech. have not worked on a chevy in like 8 years. i had a 82 blazer with a 6.2 years ago. loved it. so it is coming back to me, almost the same. ive been big into vw's the last 8 years so its a diffrent world working on this thing. the electronics are from the stone age compaired to a new vw or audi! haha

The big difference between your 62 and the 65 is the DS4 on the 65 and the BD2 on the 62. That's where the electronic bits come in. The 65 is actually kind of a "half breed" electronic diesel. It's what i call "1st gen". Still a lot of mechanical diesel components with some electronic controls on it. Comes out kind of "bastardized" overall. It's an early attempt at electronic control and orphan in the Diesel world. I have often thought it's part of GM's unofficial obd 1.5 abortion when they switched from OBDI to OBDII in 96.

Well, the turbo is the other big change from the 62 I guess!

lol.

The truck also won't start if the PMD doesn't have a resistor card in it. If you look down in the cavity on the PMD, there should be a small resistor card pushed over the pins. That was for fuel trimming the pumps on a test stand to OEM specs. If the PCm doesn't see the calibration resistor, it won't run. that might have been what was wrong with the known good pmd you tried. As a guess that is...

A non working cruise could also be a bad stalk switch. You can try the spray contact cleaner in the stalk switch. That sometimes will recover a ditry stalk switch for a while.

Unfortunately, it's either the PMD or the stalk. The rest of the cruise is integral to the PCM. No other external components. It use the "fly by wire" throttle system to control the speed and demand the fuel.

 

[great white]

"dumbo" chrome mirrors or the "Western style" bolt through the door skin mirrors are about the only OEM option for GMT 400's that tow.

Other than that, it's the retrofit GMT800 tow mirrors or adapt something like the flip out dodge towing mirrors. i went with the doge mirrors....

edit#

What the hell?

I was posting in another thread and it showed up here?

 

[slippy3002]

nice truck ya got there.

Sent from ®obland