94' leaking coolant from what looks like head gasket

[Schurkey]

"I" would assure that the intake manifold you have is not warped or corroded beyond use. Minor pitting around coolant passages can be filled-in with epoxy and then filed smooth. Major pitting, warpage, cracks, etc. will require manifold replacement. I use Permatex The Right Stuff one-minute Black to seal the manifold to the China Walls. This stuff will be in a caulking-gun cartridge or a pressurized "aerosol" applicator, 'cause it's too thick to push out of a typical RTV Silicone squeeze-tube.
www.amazon.com/Permatex-25229-Right-Stuff-Gasket/dp/B001BAH5DI/ref=sr_1_1?

Be sure to use TBI intake gaskets on a TBI intake manifold, that have the rear holes blocked except for a steam passage.

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Verify that the EGR passages are clear of excess carbon--cylinder head passages, intake manifold passages, remove EGR valve for inspection and re-gasketing.

Inspect the distributor for wear and corrosion. Probably want at least a new cap 'n' rotor; but the pickup coil and magnet are known problems, and the gear at the bottom is worth inspecting. Some guys like to unscrew the module, clean it and the distributor plate it sits on, and then reinstall with fresh heat-sink compound. Assure the two screens in the distributor are clear--blow compressed air through them. TBI distributor bushings are pretty reliable, but it's worth wiggling the distributor shaft to assure they're still good.

Remove throttle body for cleaning and re-gasketing. Be sure to use the correct gasket for your application. There's multiple designs--here's two examples:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You probably don't need to rebuild the TBI, but if you're feeling up to it, why not? Pay special attention to the throttle shaft looseness in the casting. If they're sloppy, the rebuild goes from REALLY EASY to complicated in a hurry.

Now is the perfect time to flush your coolant. Pull the block drain plugs--which also reduces the amount of coolant spilled into the lifter valley and then into the oil pan. Should be a hex-head iron/steel pipe plug on the left side, and the knock sensor on the right side. Poke a screwdriver or awl into the holes to break the crust of debris to get the coolant to flow out. Then I use a Flush 'n' Fill kit to purge the old coolant.
www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-KIT-Flush-Fill-Kit/dp/B000CCFY5W/ref=sr_1_1?

After flushing the coolant, re-torque the knock sensor to spec after sealing both the sensor and pipe-plug with Loctite 592. Consider installing a brass draincock instead of the iron pipe plug.

Looks like you've already replaced all the heater hoses and radiator hoses. Too bad the OEM clamps weren't re-used--they're WAY better than the junk worm-gear clamps sold in the parts stores. You'll perhaps need a heater-hose quick-connect fitting at the rear of the manifold.

If you have any concerns about the water pump, fan and fan clutch, or radiator...now is the time to address them.

I use Peak Lifetime Global Concentrate anti-freeze, mixed with distilled water AFTER the proper amount of coolant has been installed in the radiator/engine, and coolant overflow bottle.

BEFORE you put the intake manifold back on, consider pulling a lifter for cleaning and inspection. Remove them from the engine ONE AT A TIME so they cannot be mixed-up. Disassemble the plunger and guts ONE AT A TIME so they cannot be mixed-up. And look at the cam lobes for excessive wear.

Changing to a carburetor will ****-up the computer, the distributor, the entire emissions system, and it will ****-up your automatic transmission.

 

[94mexistepside]

You do not have a carb. It is a TBI unit. The smell was likely some of the coolant getting on the exhaust. There is a whole list of things that can be done while replacing the intake gaskets. Watch a few you tube videos for the process.

yes i know but i always hear of people changing the tbi for carb i was hoping someone here knew of any benefits or drawbacks

 

[94mexistepside]

"I" would assure that the intake manifold you have is not warped or corroded beyond use. Minor pitting around coolant passages can be filled-in with epoxy and then filed smooth. Major pitting, warpage, cracks, etc. will require manifold replacement. I use Permatex The Right Stuff one-minute Black to seal the manifold to the China Walls. This stuff will be in a caulking-gun cartridge or a pressurized "aerosol" applicator, 'cause it's too thick to push out of a typical RTV Silicone squeeze-tube.
www.amazon.com/Permatex-25229-Right-Stuff-Gasket/dp/B001BAH5DI/ref=sr_1_1?

Be sure to use TBI intake gaskets on a TBI intake manifold, that have the rear holes blocked except for a steam passage.

You must be registered for see images attach

Verify that the EGR passages are clear of excess carbon--cylinder head passages, intake manifold passages, remove EGR valve for inspection and re-gasketing.

Inspect the distributor for wear and corrosion. Probably want at least a new cap 'n' rotor; but the pickup coil and magnet are known problems, and the gear at the bottom is worth inspecting. Some guys like to unscrew the module, clean it and the distributor plate it sits on, and then reinstall with fresh heat-sink compound. Assure the two screens in the distributor are clear--blow compressed air through them. TBI distributor bushings are pretty reliable, but it's worth wiggling the distributor shaft to assure they're still good.

Remove throttle body for cleaning and re-gasketing. Be sure to use the correct gasket for your application. There's multiple designs--here's two examples:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You probably don't need to rebuild the TBI, but if you're feeling up to it, why not? Pay special attention to the throttle shaft looseness in the casting. If they're sloppy, the rebuild goes from REALLY EASY to complicated in a hurry.

Now is the perfect time to flush your coolant. Pull the block drain plugs--which also reduces the amount of coolant spilled into the lifter valley and then into the oil pan. Should be a hex-head iron/steel pipe plug on the left side, and the knock sensor on the right side. Poke a screwdriver or awl into the holes to break the crust of debris to get the coolant to flow out. Then I use a Flush 'n' Fill kit to purge the old coolant.
www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-KIT-Flush-Fill-Kit/dp/B000CCFY5W/ref=sr_1_1?

After flushing the coolant, re-torque the knock sensor to spec after sealing both the sensor and pipe-plug with Loctite 592. Consider installing a brass draincock instead of the iron pipe plug.

Looks like you've already replaced all the heater hoses and radiator hoses. Too bad the OEM clamps weren't re-used--they're WAY better than the junk worm-gear clamps sold in the parts stores. You'll perhaps need a heater-hose quick-connect fitting at the rear of the manifold.

If you have any concerns about the water pump, fan and fan clutch, or radiator...now is the time to address them.

I use Peak Lifetime Global Concentrate anti-freeze, mixed with distilled water AFTER the proper amount of coolant has been installed in the radiator/engine, and coolant overflow bottle.

BEFORE you put the intake manifold back on, consider pulling a lifter for cleaning and inspection. Remove them from the engine ONE AT A TIME so they cannot be mixed-up. Disassemble the plunger and guts ONE AT A TIME so they cannot be mixed-up. And look at the cam lobes for excessive wear.

Changing to a carburetor will ****-up the computer, the distributor, the entire emissions system, and it will ****-up your automatic transmission.

thanks this is very informative exactly what i was hoping for here everything is basically replaced on in my engine besides the block tbi and intake so im just gunna keep replacing everything. and i plan on replacing my dash and with that the ac lines bc i had some trouble with them. i have new fan clutch radiator and water pump ok got it dont even think about doing a carb.. anything that i can do to get a bit better performance with the intake ? like is there a specific top brand or style ? i was looking at summit racing and really only saw one that was for tbi

 

[94mexistepside]

or if i try to keep it cheap on this intake deal then i can maybe afford to focus a little money on my suspension

 

[Schurkey]

Do the suspension/steering/brakes. Re-use the intake manifold if it's in suitable condition.

You aren't going to get a big performance upgrade without tuning the computer. You can get some minor gains with exhaust upgrades and a fresh monolithic catalyst.

 

[Erik the Awful]

yes i know but i always hear of people changing the tbi for carb i was hoping someone here knew of any benefits or drawbacks

There are two reasons why people swap to a carb.
1) They upgrade the engine and the TBI can't handle it.
2) They can't diagnose fuel injection.

I upgraded my engine and briefly considered a carb swap just to get my truck up and running, but went with a Holley Sniper instead. If I were in the same position again, I'd go the same route. Yes, there's a learning curve. Yes, there's a crapload of extra parts that nobody mentions that you absolutely have to have. Still worth it.