93 Chevy RCSB

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Texcuda

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Exhaust system looking front to rear....

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I repurposed the stock hangers and welded 2.5" clamps to make removal of individual pipes possible

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Exhaust system from just under the mufflers looking forward

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The whole exhaust is 2.5" mandrel bent using parts ordered from Summit racing. All junctions are welded (I have a cheap harbor freight 90 amp welder so the welds are ******-ish). The 6" pipe acts as a heat shield for the driver's side catalytic convertor. There is approximately 4" of clearance between the driver's side pipe and the tailshaft of the transmission.
 

Texcuda

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Over the past several months I have made big changes to the truck. The stock 4L60e died so I replaced it with a Monster Trans 4L80 and TCI Ez-TCU....
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Because I removed all the factory pcm wiring and pcm, I used the factory pcm location to mount the tcu. Works great and easy to access by pulling the glove box if I need to access it.

I completely removed the front clip and painted the firewall as well

During:

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After:

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I took advantage of this time and removed all the unnecessary wiring - factory pcm wiring, abs, etc.

Some of the wiring that was removed

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This was a 3 month process mainly due to Monster taking 11 weeks to get me the trans that was initially promised in 4 - 5 weeks.....
 
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Texcuda

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The trans install was fairly straight forward, my stock flywheel, crossmember and driveshaft all worked.

The crossmember moved back ~ 4", the front set of holes was already drilled in the frame, I just had to drill the rear two holes.

Luckily my stock yoke was incredibly long, I bought a Sunnex 4" yoke for the trans and difference in the two yokes was enough to not require driveshaft mods.

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Stock yoke in the background, you can the rusted area that made this possible

That box is the napa crossover u-joint that made this possible. FYI, our trucks (at least mine) use the ford size 1330 u-joints - 1.125" u-joint cap sizes, not 1.062".

Due to crossmember moving back I had modify the driver's side exhaust I built a few months ago by lengthening the head pipe. I forgot to take a pic tho....
 

Texcuda

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After putting the truck back together, I had a horrible time trying to get the remote TPS to adjust properly due to a poor design. In order to get a .5v reading I had to adjust the TPS thru a third of its movement range. When I would attempt to calibrate the TPS in the tcu settings, pressing the accelerator to floor would cause the adjustment to go pull the tps out of range. No matter how I adjusted the arm and cable I could not get it work right. This resulted in the tcu always seeing 34% tps at idle and to max out before full throttle. I drove the truck a few times like, but was very unsatisfied with overall situation.....

Enter FiTech 600 hp PA system with in-line fuel pump :banana-mario:

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I choose the 600 PA system because I wanted it to control timing too. To accomplish this I also purchased a Summit billet distributor and MSD 6A. While the 6A is not required at my current power level, it made sense for me wire it now and have all my wiring done at this point instead of having to revamp the system once I boost it.

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The install was very straight forward. Remove carb, hei distributor, etc. Install locked out distributor, set base timing per instructions, install fitech unit, make some wire connections and presto change.

I did have one serious problem to deal with and that was the fuel pump and low pressure hoses. Because I went with the inline fuel pump that is frame mounted I decided to drop the gas tank and remove the stock and rubber lines. To replace the 6" of pick up, I used a 3/8" compression fitting and some 3/8" steel pipe I to extend the pick up down to where the fuel sock would have been. I flared to end to assist with picking up the fuel. So far this has worked great, with that said I haven't run the tank low on gas yet so it remains to be seen how low fuel level performance will be.

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Afterwards I realized I could have left the stock TBI fuel pump in place and used it to feed the high pressure EFI pump. I was almost done when I came to this conclusion. If I have fuel scavenging issues down the road I may resort to this.....


And the system installed

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I plan to finish cleaning up the wiring this week.

As far the tps goes, I simply spliced the sensor wire from the tcu harness into a Casper's electronics tps break out (so I didn't have to cut the fitech harness) and the tcu calibrated perfectly, and the trans shifts like a dream!

So far I have about a 100 months on the unit and it still definitely learning but everything seems to be going great so far.
 
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Texcuda

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Location
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I also started replacing my factory gauges with Autometers.....

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and I installed a B&M Pro-Stick to control the 4L80. I blacked all the shifter components and eventually the white ball and aluminum cover will go away as well.

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