CrustyJunker
Is STILL Here?
Almost sounds like universal joints to me. I know there's a lot going on in this thread, and it could be a number of things...My best advice is just check the simple stuff first!
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Almost sounds like universal joints to me. I know there's a lot going on in this thread, and it could be a number of things...My best advice is just check the simple stuff first!
not sure, ive never paid anyone to pull my trans but if i had to guess itd probably be around 1000 at a shop. Make sure you check everything over good and get some fresh fluid in it first. Try to wiggle your engine and trans with a pry bar to check the mounts, as well as lookong them over to make sure the rubber is still in them.Damn. Expensive as in over $1000 all said and done? Before I take that leap of faith I'm going to make sure I diagnose it correctly and do all the minors things first.
Check the fluid level in the transmission. My truck is an 89 with the same transmission. It will have a 5LM60 if it is the original trans. They take two quarts of synchromesh fluid. Get the stuff found here http://www.ebay.com/itm/161475758781?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
You can also find the fluid at your local NAPA or auto parts store.
I will tell you, this transmission is a little notchy, it shouldn't make those kinds of noises though. If it makes noise when you push in the clutch, the throwout bearing is likely bad. My trans is a little notchy and has 150k miles on it if that is any consolation.
Anyway, the fill hole is the plug on the passenger side of the transmission on the picture below. The drain is on the bottom of the transmission. Both take a 17mm hex head to remove it. My advice is get a bolt with a 17mm head on it, put a nut on the threads and weld the nut to the threads. Then you can use the head of the 17mm bolt as the hex head, much cheaper than buying one.
Drain the transmission by removing the bottom plug until it drains completely. Replace the plug and then pull the side fill hex head and fill it until it starts leaking out. Take it for a drive afterwards and see if it is any better.
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I'm not a fan of the HM290/ NV3500 trans. I've had three of them in my truck, and every one of them had an issue even a "performance built" one that was supposed to be an upgrade was junky. I've had input bearing issues from two of them, a broken 1-2 shift selector, bad bearings on the 3-4 shift rail, and general sloppy grinding mess.
My engine is not stock, so that did play into some of my issues. I have since upgraded to a NV4500, and all my troubles are gone.
I have had two shops tell me to run full synthetic 5w30 engine oil. I'm still a believer in using synchromesh oils. With all my listed problems above, my oil level was spot on, so I believe it's just the design of that particular transmission.
My assessment is the HM290/NV3500 is great for the 4.3 V6, and if you have a V8 and you tow a trailer, just step up to the NV4500 and avoid the hassle.
Keep in mind this is just my experience with the transmission, others may not agree with me, and I'm okay with that.
Find you a 92-94 1 ton with a 350, everything lines up and bolts up. The NV4500 has a bell housing that is separate from the transmission, that is the hardest part to find because greedy people try to make extra money off just the bellhousing. Most listings sell just the transmission without the bellhousing. If you have a self pull salvage near you, that's where I would look, or if you got a buddy that has a rusted out beat to hell one ton, that's where I would really start drooling because you could get everything you need right there.If I were to upgrade to a NV4500 what would I have to change?