'88 dually

Discussion in 'Towing' started by KRS1, Apr 14, 2014.

  1. dave_erald

    dave_erald Narcissist candidate for the NOOA, need a sponsor

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    Yeah, you'll like the difference. I did poly bushings whole truck, new joints, dropped it with coils and spindles and it was the best riding damn truck I ever had. I want it back...

    Nice truck, good job on the frame paint!
     
  2. Dylan1991_1500

    Dylan1991_1500 I'm Awesome

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    Looks clean.
     
  3. KRS1

    KRS1 OBS Enthusiast

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    thanks guys! I removed the grease and dirt initially with engine de-greaser and a power washer. After that I used a flapper wheel and then some POR paint....I am try to prevent it from rusting anymore...The truck has 191,000 miles on it so I figured better safe than sorry and re-do all the suspension , steering & brakes (even though some had already been done pitman arm and 2 tie rods)..I agree with you Dave, the ride will be like new! I did the same with the Monte but it was more a drag race oriented rebuild...here is a pic of the steering components..

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  4. KRS1

    KRS1 OBS Enthusiast

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    Hey guys, I got around to install the front steering..the only tip I have is when you install the pitman to centre link you need to put a small jack under it to push in the stud..The budget is tight so I am focusing on other things like getting the bed in shape. There are lots of holes and one bed mount is ripped out. I also want to start on the fuel system..what are you guys doing for fuel lines? It looks like the original style uses a crimped on deal? I was considering going braided but now hoping to use original style...it looks like the tank and pump have been replaced. I am hoping to use the same pump as I don't think the engine will produce a huge amount of power. I have read people use a 454 pump or a Walboro one..I will also put the trap door in the bed to have access to the pump...I awill also "bench test" the fuel pump..I have a YouTube vid that might help as well as some updated pictures. Photbucket is getting trickier to use!


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    Last edited: Jun 2, 2016
  5. KRS1

    KRS1 OBS Enthusiast

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    I fabricated a new bed mount and will be starting to POR the rusty areas of the bed...I don't think I will be using Photobucket to post most pics as it is getting too slow...

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  6. KRS1

    KRS1 OBS Enthusiast

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  7. dave_erald

    dave_erald Narcissist candidate for the NOOA, need a sponsor

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    Photobucket is absolute horseshit, and I'm spending money on getting a subscription or whatever to get rid of ads as I am not convinced it would make it any better.

    Got pics of the trap door deal you are going to make?

    Most of my lines are braided steel, I'll try and get pics in a bit. Tank down to lift pump and then back up to engine I will probably run rigid line but I need to get the cab off first and start from scratch, and because I am doing that, tank, pump, filter/s I may even draw it out on paper first
     
  8. KRS1

    KRS1 OBS Enthusiast

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    Thanks Dave, actually the photo posting method on this website seems to work well so i will just continue using it..but I have heard of complaints with Photobucket..there is so much ad stuff running behind the scenes,,

    I will likely be doing the trap door when I drop the bed again so maybe next month (to get a proper positioning of the hole)... It will be fairly simple; just some hardware store hinges and cuts with a body saw..It will just make changing the pump much easier if it ever fails or I want to upgrade..

    Nice! sounds like a good idea for the fuel lines..it looks like there are 3 lines in total--outlet, return, and vent line..I do have a connection for good prices on braided, I think the it would require some sort of adapter from the pump to AN? I haven't looked at the fuel pump fittings yet...there is actually some "GM braided" line already--LOL
    I did some web searching and did find some Earl's adapter fittings...I might end up using them..I guess this is a "cross that bridge when I come to it deal"

    These are Earl part numbers:

    14mm/ 1.5 (pitch) O-ring seat for a -6 AN fitting PN/991954

    16mm/ 1.5 (pitch) O-ring seat for a -6 AN fitting PN/991955
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2016
  9. KRS1

    KRS1 OBS Enthusiast

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    Hey guys, just a "mid summer update" I completed repairing the bed and put it back on the truck. It was a lot of work! The fiberglass fender flares in particular took a long time to fix. I used aluminum flat stock, aluminum mesh and stainless steel hardware to repair the various framing as well as enforcing the flares. The flares came out "OK". Perhaps one day I will finish them properly..I used a combination of fiberglass cloth and fiberglass bondo. I will have more details in a YouTube video at some point. I welded up repair patches for all the holes in the bed and POR painted them. I POR painted only the worst rusty areas in the bed to try to conserve the POR paint. I also cut a hole for the fuel pump trap door, but I made a mistake. Since the bed was upside down the measurements were off...so I will have to extend the hole. I will finish it off the hole using a piece of aluminum, "nut serts", and some old weather stripping... I also asphalt undercoated the entire underside of the bed and inner fenders (hopefully that will keep away the rust). I also went to the 'yard and got a new gas tank plastic fill up piece, I re-installed it using pan head stainless steel bolts (not with the stupid TORX bolts) and speed nuts...with what little POR paint I have left I painted the gas tank fill up tube. I also tried to test the electric fuel pump out for a few seconds and it doesn't seem to work. Hopefully; with the proper connections it does? I will have the trap door access at that point so I can change the pump easier. It looks like the proper Earls to AN connection #'s are 9894DBJ & 9894DBH I will get these and convert the fuel line to AN stainless (I have some extra -6 hose and fittings). I also painted the fairly new gas tank and got the proper plastic "undertank" protector...
    I am trying to research a engine. The best situation for me is to find a low milage 350 TBI rebuildable core (around $150 up here from the 'yard) in which the I can re-use the entire rotating assembly. This would avoid a lot of machine work and balancing which would cost $$ as well as pistons etc. This looks to be tough because a lot of stuff will at least have a significant "rim ridge" and will require a cylinder bore. I though I found a good candidate in a late 80s/90's 1 ton van that was in accident. The engine looked clean. I spent 3 hours in the hot sun taking it apart only to find the cylinder bore had a significant ring ridge. It was also a propane engine that is hard on the rings..
    So, next step is to extend the trap door hole and bolt the bed down, other than that keep looking for a good engine...

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    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
  10. KRS1

    KRS1 OBS Enthusiast

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    The van even had recent low mileage oil change stickers! I though this would be a winner! The stickers said 53406 miles! (85400 kms)

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    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016

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