6 inch RC lift HELP

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Z71Hobbs

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What do you mean by ball joint flip?
Couldnt crank the keys all the way it would throw out alignment just did everything by the book

Some folks bolt the upper ball joint in the under side of the a arm as opposed to the factory position (on top). It’s supposed to help if you have high cv angles, but it can change the geometry. It’s probably right..but something to check. I’d rotate your torsion bars 90 degrees. Post a pic -would also help.

On mine, I barely cranked the front end and I have a heavy motor, and my rear was still lower than the front.
 

Awest623

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Some folks bolt the upper ball joint in the under side of the a arm as opposed to the factory position (on top). It’s supposed to help if you have high cv angles, but it can change the geometry. It’s probably right..but something to check. I’d rotate your torsion bars 90 degrees. Post a pic -would also help.

On mine, I barely cranked the front end and I have a heavy motor, and my rear was still lower than the front.

A ball joint flip should actually help with his adjustments when cranked
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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I have the 6" RC lift in my 2 door. Im using 5" blocks in the rear without the AAL and I have the front cranked up so that it sits 1" lower than the rear. I had no issues with alignment or cranking.

Are you running the full 6" lift and trying to raise the front up to match the rear? I think the RC kit is designed to be a 4" lift up front and then the owner can choose to crank the torsion bars if they want 4-6" of total lift.
 

John dough

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I have the 6" RC lift in my 2 door. Im using 5" blocks in the rear without the AAL and I have the front cranked up so that it sits 1" lower than the rear. I had no issues with alignment or cranking.

Are you running the full 6" lift and trying to raise the front up to match the rear? I think the RC kit is designed to be a 4" lift up front and then the owner can choose to crank the torsion bars if they want 4-6" of total lift.

Yes i am but i decided im going to try taking out the add a leaf and see how it sits from there
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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Yes i am but i decided im going to try taking out the add a leaf and see how it sits from there

What size tires are you running? Im on 33s with a 5" lift. I never installed the AALs. Just the original 4" blocks that came with the kit and then adjusted the height up front to where I wanted it by cranking. My tires were still rubbing a bit on the fender near the door so I cranked a little higher which put the front higher than the rear so I swapped out the 4" blocks for a pair of RC 5" blocks. Thats how I run it now and its fine. Very small amount of rubbing still hen turning and backing up but my truck has 160K on it. Im sure the bars are wearing out
 

John dough

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35x12.50 with a -44 offset wheels only rubs in front at almost full lock got a little trimming to do
 

Axeldogs

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Did you mention if you had cam bolts on your upper a arms. I put the full six on my 88’ and had the same problem. All I did was buy cam bolts for the upper arms for like $20 on rockauto.
 

98-k1500-z71

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Prepare for a rant:
The problem is the rough country “6 inch suspension kit”. It is not a true 6 inch lift and the front measures to something like 5.125” instead of 6” like a BDS or Fabtech lift would measure to. The 4” lift and the 6” lift from rough country are exactly the same except for the 6” lift comes with an add a leaf which means in order to get to the 6” up front you need to crank or overcrank the keys. I know this from experience. I had their 4” lift which was perfectly fine but I turned into a 6” with an add a lead from pro comp and cranking the keys. Threw out my left front tire so bad it was wearing unevenly. Brought it to a shop to align it and they physically could not get that side aligned. I had to add extra washers to the upper control arm drop bracket to bring the upper control arm out and camber back in so it could be aligned. Only the left side. Right side was able to be zeroed out with no modifications.
 
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